(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 60

Thread: Help installing toilet flange

  1. #31
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    We can only believe what you have told us, which is that the sink is not vented.

    I would not believe Terry's simple test of running some water into the lavatory because of the potentially low flow of the sink's faucet. You would need to drain a full sink or dump a bucket of water into it, and then check to see if the the trap has siphoned.

    If there is not a vent, it might be one of those times that an AAV will have to make do.
    Thanks I will try this test. Do I basically open the trap and see if its not full of water after draining the full sink?

  2. #32
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Land of Cheese
    Posts
    3,154

    Default

    Yes. If the sink drain is without a stopper, you should me able to shine a light down the trap and see if it is full.

  3. #33
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,428

    Default

    When the waste exits the P-trap of the sink, and before it starts to go down, there must be a pipe coming off that arm within 42" for the size pipe you are using that goes up to act as the vent. Since it looks like the sink's drain just goes straight down in the wall, there MUST be a vent line going straight up from where it transitions from horizontal to vertical off the trap arm behind the P-trap, or it is an S-trap. Depending on the flow, you may or may not be able to siphon the trap in the sink, so the test is not definitive.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  4. #34
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    When the waste exits the P-trap of the sink, and before it starts to go down, there must be a pipe coming off that arm within 42" for the size pipe you are using that goes up to act as the vent. Since it looks like the sink's drain just goes straight down in the wall, there MUST be a vent line going straight up from where it transitions from horizontal to vertical off the trap arm behind the P-trap, or it is an S-trap. Depending on the flow, you may or may not be able to siphon the trap in the sink, so the test is not definitive.
    The original plumbing was an s trap going through the floor connecting to the copper you see in the picture which is connected to the PVC. Doesn't this definitively mean the sink is not vented? In this situation would an acceptable fix be to run a p trap under the sink and attach an AAV and then drop the pipe through the floor? There are three load bearing joists under the wall behind the sink so there is no way I will be able to put a pipe in the wall and go down (or left or right or up for that matter due to other obstructions). Thank you.

  5. #35
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,428

    Default

    Some places allow an AAV, some don't. Having one is better than an S-trap. They can and do fail eventually, so they must be placed where they can be accessed. You want is as high in the cabinet as you can reasonably get it and still unscrew it to replace it.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  6. #36
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    Some places allow an AAV, some don't. Having one is better than an S-trap. They can and do fail eventually, so they must be placed where they can be accessed. You want is as high in the cabinet as you can reasonably get it and still unscrew it to replace it.
    If I go with an AAV in the cabinet, does it make any difference whether I put a wye at the main stack or after the toilet elbow? Thanks.

  7. #37
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    New England
    Posts
    21,428

    Default

    You don't really want to keep it into the toilet fitting, but I don't think it really matters which other choice you make once you've got the sink vented.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  8. #38
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    You don't really want to keep it into the toilet fitting, but I don't think it really matters which other choice you make once you've got the sink vented.
    I was looking at the stack pipe and have another idea. What if I leave the CI sanitee the way it is and use it only for the toilet and install a tee in the kitchen sink copper pipe you see in the picture below and connect the bathroom sink to the tee?

    Name:  IMG_20130402_011145[1].jpg
Views: 58
Size:  43.6 KB

  9. #39
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Land of Cheese
    Posts
    3,154

    Default

    I'm still wondering why you don't just vent the sink and cut the sink drain wye into the toilet waste arm, downstream of the closet bend?

  10. #40
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    I'm still wondering why you don't just vent the sink and cut the sink drain wye into the toilet waste arm, downstream of the closet bend?
    Because Jim said "You don't really want to keep it into the toilet fitting, but I don't think it really matters which other choice you make once you've got the sink vented." after I asked "If I go with an AAV in the cabinet, does it make any difference whether I put a wye at the main stack or after the toilet elbow? Thanks.".

    The "You don't really want to keep it into the toilet fitting" part made it sound to me like putting the wye after the elbow or "toilet waste arm" was not the best way to do it.

  11. #41
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Land of Cheese
    Posts
    3,154

    Default

    The issue is the existing closet bend with the heel inlet. Getting rid of that and cutting in the wye is fine- as long as the sink is properly vented. If it is not vented, the sink's trap can get siphoned every time you flush the toilet.

  12. #42
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    The issue is the existing closet bend with the heel inlet. Getting rid of that and cutting in the wye is fine- as long as the sink is properly vented. If it is not vented, the sink's trap can get siphoned every time you flush the toilet.
    Ok, thanks!

  13. #43
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Bothell, Washington
    Posts
    14,207
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Because Jim said "You don't really want to keep it into the toilet fitting
    So the advice of a working plumber is not good, but Jim the Retired Defense Industry Engineer's is.
    I can't tell you how many thousands of jobs I've had permitted and passed.

  14. #44
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    So the advice of a working plumber is not good, but Jim the Retired Defense Industry Engineer's is.
    I can't tell you how many thousands of jobs I've had permitted and passed.
    Hi Terry,

    Jim responded the fastest and has more posts than you. Clearly he must be at a higher level.

  15. #45
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    115

    Default

    I forgot to ask. I've read that there are cheap AAVs to avoid. What would be some brands/models that have a good track record?

Similar Threads

  1. Installing toilet with offset flange
    By Swetzel in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-01-2011, 09:39 PM
  2. Installing flooring & toilet flange
    By lucgallant in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 09-12-2011, 02:00 PM
  3. Installing toilet repair flange
    By Vega in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-04-2011, 05:56 AM
  4. Installing new toilet flange in concrete
    By alwaysfine in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-30-2010, 01:18 PM
  5. Installing a toilet flange
    By kwhitt1017@yahoo.com in forum Toilet Forum discussions
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-25-2006, 04:23 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •