The plumbers don't use a lo-heel outlet in that position. That's meant to be used in the vertical.
You can use a wye fitting after the 90 bend on the toilet and pick up the lav that way.
It would be closet flange, 90 bend, wye fitting and then toward the santee on your cast iron stack.
We don't really pay much attention to what we find. We try to do things an inspector would pass on an inspection with permits.
The Carlyle will need 9-1/4" from the finished wall to center with the 10" Unifit.
Floor mold will fit at the wall.
A heel inlet closet bend is never permitted to be installed with the inlet horizontal. This is specifically referenced in our plumbing code. Regardless that someone did it wrong many years ago, it is just as wrong today.
It also appears that you have installed a fernco style reducer over the hub on the sanitary tee, which is also improper. You need to use a fernco style donut in the hub to make the connection.
An alternative method of properly plumbing the water closet and the lav would be to replace the existing sanitary tee in the stack with one that has a side inlet, and then running the lav drain to the side inlet. In any case, the lav must have a vent, and this would have been true no matter what year the house was built.
Also do you know the answer to my flange question? Thanks.
One would hope that the stack is supported, but I would never take that for granted. A couple of riser clamps blocked in from above is all that it takes.
If I am understanding your question about the flange, the pipe should bottom out (or be very close to it) in the hub when the cement is applied. If that is the outside fit flange, the riser should come up to about 1/8" from flush with the finished floor.
I would stay with the cast iron. If anything shifts a bit during the next 20 years, I would not want the load of the stack placed on a piece of PVC.
As far as venting goes I see no way for me to add a vent to the sink/toilet without ripping the bathroom wall/ceiling out and wall upstairs to send a pipe up all the way to the attic. Further I do not think I have enough room in the wall to send a pipe due to obstructions from water supply pipes and wiring. Any suggestions on this end? All of the plumbing fixtures are going to the main stack. This house was just not built in mind for separate vents as far as I know. Thank you.
The lav, should have had a vent going through the roof.
Otherwise it would be an illegal S trap.
Bringing the lav waste back to a side outlet santee would still not vent it.
Reusing the no-hub clamps should be fine.
Would I remove the santee?
I still think there is a vent on the lav above the existing p-trap connection until proven wrong.
One way to see, is to run water down the sink/lav and see if the trap siphons.
We can only believe what you have told us, which is that the sink is not vented.
I would not believe Terry's simple test of running some water into the lavatory because of the potentially low flow of the sink's faucet. You would need to drain a full sink or dump a bucket of water into it, and then check to see if the the trap has siphoned.
If there is not a vent, it might be one of those times that an AAV will have to make do.
Last edited by cacher_chick; 04-01-2013 at 12:25 PM.
The wye downstream of the bend would be correct IF the lav is properly vented. Either way requires the lav to be vented.
Last edited by cacher_chick; 04-01-2013 at 12:46 PM.