Need to replace one-piece fiberglass shower/tub unit

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Suceress

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Thanks, Jadnashua. I'll have to measure in the morning. None of the lights in any of the bathrooms work so I can't see in there. I actually need to replace the old vent/light/heat fixtures. The old ones are dying. I could probably replace the light bulbs if I could figure out how to open the fixture, but the heating part no longer works-- plus the tenants messed up the wiring so that the switch that says heat is actually for the vent/fan. Those fixtures have been in the house for probably 30 years at least. Obviously they are not energy star rated. :p

Jwhipple, I adhere to the "better safe than sorry" adage. My brother is very rough on things. If he thinks something is built sturdy, he will test it. We had a couch that had steel reinforcement that was supposed to be very sturdy and he decided to take a flying leap onto it and broke it. He has gone through about 15 computer chairs-- several of them were supposed to hold 500lbs for 6 to 8 hours use. I would not be surprised if he gripped the bar with both hands and put all of his weight on it. No logical reason for it, but its just the sort of thing he does.

Terry, thank you. I'm going to show my ignorance. I don't know what a nailing flange is. I'm guessing it is a flange on something that is nailed to the wall or studs to secure it? For dry wall, would cement board work? With the kits, would I be able to get a Sterling tub of my choice but then a different surround?
Solid surface option is more forgiving of mistakes? I wish I knew a place locally that sold it-- and if it were affordable.
Do you have links to any of the Sterling kits please?

I really appreciate the information.

Edit: I measured and the tiny bathroom is 56" wide. I measured the walls around the toilet and they are about 23" apart. The rest of the space is taken up by the shower stall.
 
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So, I'm a colossal procrastinator & since posting this I've had some injuries & illnesses that have contributed to that. My mother's mobility issues have gotten worse but my brother has lost over 100lbs. This is still our only working bathroom in the house, so we will need to get at least a functioning toilet in the adjacent bathroom before we tackle this in case there are delays on finishing it, but we want to get it done quickly once we begin.

Since my mother has difficulty lifting her legs high enough to step in to a tub, we have decided to go with a shower instead of a tub. We're thinking Sterling Ensemble would be a good since it can be direct-to-stud. Since our studs are done a bit oddly, we will be making our own backers instead of paying double for the version with built-in-backers. The drain location will be a bit different, but from my examination of the plumbing under the house, there should not be a joist in the way.

Since the floor was patched with OSB & the closet flange broke & leaked, it's shot so we will have to replace the entire subfloor. We'll have to move the tall cabinet out & remove a vertical part of the shelving system temporarily, get the toilet out of the way, & get in some proper subfloor then install new vinyl sheet flooring. We're going with Moen Kingsley Moentrol trim kit with 3510 IPS valve (so no need to sweat pipes), Moen Refresh double showerhead w/ slidebar, Moen 16" grab bar w/ shelf (for either above or below the shower controls), and Moen double curved curtain rod. We've already purchased those but are still trying to pick the longer grab bars. I'm thinking 24" for vertical & the back-wall mount ones would be good.

Since the shower kit has a large space between the shelves I'm thinking it wouldn't hurt to get a corner grab bar w/ shelf but it's still on the "optional" list. There's a nice-looking Delta one (I know it might not be great to mix finishes, but in this house it doesn't matter too much). It's cheaper and has a better look than Moen's corner bar with shelf. I've already studied how to properly add backing/supports in the walls for the grab bars.

The current showerhead is not very high-- it's maybe 6' from the floor so I'm debating whether we should raise it or keep it at that height. The slidebar is only 19" long, but it connects to the top showerhead a few inches lower than the wall connection. Once that height is determined I'll also need to pick the right heights for the controls & the grab bar/shelf. I saw pictures of the shelf below the controls, but I want to make sure it won't be too low. My mother is about 5'6" and will be sitting on a shower seat so she'll need to be able to reach the controls while sitting as well as put things on the shelf & use the slidebar/handheld shower head. Moen recommends having the controls 44" below the shower arm (where it attaches into the wall).

The studs to the closet will have to be notched about 1/2" to fit the 60" shower, but hopefully that won't be too much of a pain & I can add reinforcements alongside if need be.

I have already started cutting an access panel in the area where the control/valve will go. Right now the water supply is PVC for cold water (I know, not to code) and CPVC for hot. I'm thinking of going to PEX to allow a bit of wiggle room for getting things positioned before they get secured to make sure everything fits. Is it permissible to use sharkbite fittings inside the wall if we have an access panel? I plan to add shutoffs below the PEX.

Other than replacing the subfloor & making sure the floor is level, the plumbing will be the tricky part. As of now, there are no vents on the plumbing. However, upon examining the plumbing under the house it looks like there used to be a vent in the wall behind the toilets (the toilet is connected to it although it is connected incorrectly). It does not come up through the roof & I don't think it connects to the vent that does go out through the roof. So it either terminates in the wall or in the attic-- not sure if it is capped so it could be letting gas into the house (which could explain some mystery odors in the house). IF this vent is somewhere in the attic & can be put up through the roof (or out the exterior wall & routed around the soffit) we could then connect the other toilet as well as the tub & shower. I'm a bit wary of poking holes in the roof because it is metal so it's not as simple as lifting shingles to fit a boot under, so whatever is there will need to be very secure & sealed perfectly.

The lavatory in this bathroom has an S-trap so that will have to be corrected. The vent will have to be pushed back a few inches to not create a crown vent & then we can use 45 bends to get back to the drain position (rather than trying to drill new holes in the cabinet). Now, I know that we can't wet vent the shower downstream of the toilet, but could we wet vent the shower from the adjacent tub?

We plan to cut the wall panel behind the toilet to access the possible vent pipe. From there we could drill holes to add branch vents to come up inside the wall & merge with the existing vent. I know that we should have separate branch vents for each fixture, but I'm wondering if it would be OK to merge the shower's vent with the tub's drain to have fewer holes. My thinking was that they are not likely to both be in use at the same time, but then, tubs can take longer to drain, although I don't foresee anyone using that tub so shortly before someone takes a shower. The wall that appears to have the vent runs east to west. The main soil pipe is further south but runs parallel & goes out to the septic tank. I was thinking I run another pipe almost parallel under the wall, picking up the drains from the lavatories to the west, with a cleanout on the east, and then add some sweeps/bends to merge it with the main soil pipe.

Currently one of the joists is notched for the adjacent tub's drain & I'll have to reinforce the joist with a box of sorts (perpendicular supports). The water supply pipes for that tub are inside the closet. We thought about getting a left-drain shower & moving water supply to that closet for the shower but the left-drain version was about $100 more expensive for some unknown reason & we'd have to pull everything out of the closet & crouch under the shelf to mess with stuff in there.

I'm including a cropped compressed photo of some of the plumbing under the house, a diagram of the room w/ approximate measurements, & the rough sketches of plumbing layout options (I ruled out A already bc I realized the toilets were aligned differently).

Any thoughts? (And yes, I know this is a lot to tackle & I do intend to bring in a plumber).

I know that is a big wall of text. LOL. So TL: DR version:

1. Can I wet vent the shower under the tub's drain?
2. Is putting a hole in a metal roof to run a vent pipe beyond the scope of a normal plumber's expertise/skill?
3. What is needed to seal around the vent pipe& boot to prevent roof leakage (we get a LOT of rain)?

westsideplumb1cropjpg.jpg


Should have been a wye or combo fitting to pick up the toilet.
A santee on it's back is wrong.

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Suceress

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I've purchased the shower surround and base. I've purchased a Moen showerhead with a built in slidebar & handheld showerhead (as well as a fixed one that can be turned off with a diverter at the top). I have Moen grab bars- 48", 16" and 24". I will have to figure out the best placement for each to allow for the most room for my mother to sit.

Using Moen Kingsley Moentrol trim set in a Sterling Ensemble Curve shower.

Recently ran pex lines for the entire house because all the cpvc ruptured and some of the pvc lines ruptured. I have ball valve shutoffs inside the wall (with access panel) for the shower.

Planning to use joist hangers to add support boards under the subfloor for the messed up floor under the toilet and then lay down plywood floor underlayment as a better surface for the vinyl sheet.

I'll add backer boards between the studs and glue some thin plywood to the backs of the wall panels anywhere there may be penetrations. I'm trying to decide on the best adhesive for that. I will then seal & paint the plywood so it won't get wet.

I'll be replacing the sink and raising the countertop of the vanity (will remove it and put in 2x4s and 1x2 furring strips as it's only 30-3/4" high). With the underlayment in, the new height will be 34-1/2". I'll be putting on new laminate on the countertop as well. The green must go!

I had more to say but I got brain freeze. I'm currently working on sketchup drawings of the bathroom.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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You are a worse procrastinator than I am... this is a near 10 year saga.

I like the Sterling shower systems, we use them a lot in our remodels.

The Moentrol is now a discontinued valve... so if you haven't purchased it, you might rethink that. But if you have that's fine too since they will make parts for it forever or at least long enough that it becomes some one elses problem.

Adding panels to the backside of the fiberglass panels for potential grab bars is a great idea. Almost all our remodel projects get backing installed for future Aging In Place grab bars.

Almost all of our fixed shower head stub out around 80" above the finished floor. And always above a shower surround panel. Some shower slide bars that use one of the mounting surfaces as their water outlets allow for variations from the wall dimension.. such as the top being against drywall while the bottom against a panel 1.5" further out.. you might look at that detail to make sure yours fits or how to deal with it if it doesn't.

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Thanks, Tuttles Revenge. Yeah, I am a major procrastinator. A good part of it was health issues & lack of any assistance. I've had some back injuries so I now need a friend to help me do things and he had a stroke last year (at only 30 yrs old) and it has interfered with his ability to help. He has also had horrendous luck & I've actually spent a great deal of time helping remodel his current house after his previous home burned down (from Sketchup planning to running him to the store & transporting materials in my truck, to taking him to doctor's appointments in between, and painting his cabinets & helping install flooring). Life has been chaotic.

We already have the Moentrol valve, the Kingsley trim, the 3 grab bars (the 16" one has a shelf), the showerhead, the escutcheon (flange to go around the shower arm), the double curved shower rod, the shower arm, etc. ADA toilet is in place with a Better Than Wax ring so when we fix the floor up I won't have to clean up wax mess when I use my Toiletmaster Lift jack to move the toilet (I know it sounds lazy, but I can't lift worth crap & my friend's arm was broken in mutliple places a few years back so he has trouble lifting & that jack has been amazing-- pulled & set toilets at least 6 times now). Wish we'd had it the first time we were trying to set his toilet and he kept dropping the toilet at the wrong time/position & ruined several wax rings. But I digressed.

Our plan now:
  • Repair & shore up subfloor
  • Install plywood underlayment (as subfloor is the wrong way across the joists)
  • Trim back into closet to make room for shower
  • Install backers in walls
  • Install plywood layer on shower
  • Install shower
  • Install grab bars
  • Raise vanity counter & recover w/ non-green laminate
  • Replace sink
  • Get rid of S-trap and run vent out through wall (or use AAV) to vent properly
  • Paint walls, cabinets, shelves, etc
  • Install vinyl sheet
  • Replace light switches w/ rocker switches
  • Replace outlets w/ newer ones
  • Install some sort of light over the sink (even if it's just battery LED)
  • Replace or repair vent/light/heat thing in ceiling

I think first priority is fixing the floor because it's the foundation on which we have to work.At first we may tie in to existing plumbing but at some point we are going to have to gut and replace some of it to get proper vents. I will probably need some fernco fittings for some of it. I saw there are already some in use under there in that ugly tangle of old pipes and newer pipes.

I did run in to one snag in my original plans. Got that 48" grab bar bc it was cheaper than the 36" and 24". Then when I was in the store and saw the floor model of the shower I did measurements and realized the ends would be on the bump outs of the walls near the shelves & that it would stick too far in to the shower to be comfortable. So, I'm thinking the 24" can go in that spot, the 16" with shelf can go under the faucet (as anything longer can't fit there with the way the walls curve) and maybe the 48" one can be the vertical piece she can grab as she gets in so it has a longer range of grab height.

She has a shower seat already but I'm worried that it's too low and doesn't have suction cup feet so it can tip. I don't want it tipping over on her when she's leaning. So I'm trying to find a bariatric chair with adjustable legs (so it can be taller) and suction cups so it will stay put.

For the mortar bed, I believe the bottom of the shower pan has a honeycomb like pattern but also little feet throughout. I want to make a template where I mark the locations of those little feet so when we do the mortar bed, I will leave holes for the feet so they won't be obstructed and the mortar will support around them. I will also put landscaping material or tar paper against the wood below the mortar and have plastic on the underside of the shower just in case anything goes pear-shaped & it needs to be pulled up for any reason. If the front apron of the shower pan is hollow enough, I plan to put down furring strips to stabilize the shower position & edges. I was seriously considering low expansion spray foam (like the kind for doors and windows) inside any hollow spots (not the honeycomb) like the shelves to add a little extra reinforcement.

I'm probably overthinking this, but I'm used to things going wrong and having things break so I want to do what I can to reinforce.

I can't remember if I mentioned that I discovered there is not enough space behind or between the drawers on the vanity in this room to run the trap arm in to the wall with the other bathroom. That is why I would vent it out the wall or add an AAV. Being on a septic system, I'd rather do through the wall and caulk around.

Any suggestions on a good adhesive for the backers against the shower walls?
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Toiletmaster Lift jack to move the toilet (I know it sounds lazy

Any tool that makes your life easier and prevents injury is worth using. How many times I've brought out the correct tool and some Strong Guy has to show off.. then shows up to work the next day unable to walk cuz he injured his back doing the show off thing.

Sounds like a lot of challenges but a solid plan to move forward. I built an ADA apartment for my brother as he's had complications with diabetes and lost the better part of one of his feet. I prefer a vertical bar at the entrance to the shower that allows a good hand hold as you're walking in. Horizontal bars for getting up and down inside and for stability to rest weight onto.

Most chemical companies sell a panel adhesive and I think most adhesive caulks will perform well but may take some bracing to get them to cure properly in place. Once you secure the bar to them, they'll never move.

Adding mortar underneath is clutch no matter what other substrate they have built underneath. The legs of a bench/seat will put a lot of pressure at each of those points and should be reinforced as you mention.

I'd always liked the Moentrol valve, but for some reason they seemed to have phased it out several years ago and finally discontinued it. We installed our last one a couple months ago.
 

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Thanks for the reply. It's encouraging.
The shower stall is made of Sterling's Vikrell so I'll have to look at what adhesives work with that. They were not very specific about it.

I got laughed at by some people over the toilet jack but it doesn't hurt the toilet, is easy to use, and it tips the toilet so if there is any water in the bowl when it is lifted, it won't dump straight out, it remains in the bowl. Made swapping out toilets super easy-- although we changed out the wheels to locking ones so it can be locked in place so we can't accidentally move the toilet once we have it positioned. Used it to pull the old Toto Drake that was standard height, pop in the new ADA Drake, and haul old one off to safe spot for re-use in another bathroom. Used it to pull friend's 50+yr old crappy toilet that was super short and replace it with a Toto Entrada that was chair height. He used the jack to pull it to try to snake the line when the main sewer line backed up.

I plan to have a vertical bar at the entrance of the shower for her to grab as she gets in. Under the valve I will have the 16" grab bar with shelf so she can set her shampoo & soap there. 24" grab bar will be on the back wall for her to grab if she has trouble standing.

I think 3 sheets of 4x8 plywood should cover the entire floor of the bathroom.

I played around in sketchup with the layout-- didn't find the shower in the 3dwarehouse though so I will have to improvise. I drew the Sterling Performa one in from scratch in another file. She's got the Ensemble Curve.

I made the cabinets white (but not sure what color she will want) and picked a random blue color for the laminate but am not sure what the actual color will be. We are waiting on the samples to arrive to pick something she likes. Right now it's the ugly green that they didn't have as an option. Computer crapped out so I'm on my laptop that doesn't have Sketchup to load the files.

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I'm currently trying to choose a replacement sink. I've got a few options. If I go with the Kohler Bryant I will have to change the faucet to one with longer reach (they require 5" reach but the Moen Caldwell has 4.75" reach).
Another option is a ProFlo 19" round sink but I'm iffy on the quality. Most expensive option thus far is the Toto Reliant. I can't tell if her current sink is 18-7/8 or 19 for certain because of the curves & my trouble seeing the lines on the measuring tape. But I think 19" would be a safe bet.
Any thoughts? I want something deep.
 

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As an update, she has selected Formica Spectrum Blue for the countertop and a Toto Reliance (I was mistaken about it being Reliant) 19" round lavatory in Cotton White. I think we should have enough leftover Behr Deep River paint for the shelves and vanity (after I paint the front door). But I'll have her look at paint chips. She sees color differently than I do because she had cataract surgery. I think a sky blue for the wall would look nice.
The lavatory is on the way but we will need to order the Formica. I wish Lowes had it because they give military discount for online orders. I'll have to search for coupons for HomeDepot.
Since my desktop PC crashed I don't have Sketchup on my laptop to make changes. I'll have to go to my friend's house to re-download it and install it (since my internet connection sucks).
I'm thinking of running the vent for the lav out the wall (perhaps at an angle to get around the window) and then routing it around the eaves. Any tips on how to put a pipe through the wall at a slight angle? Or should I angle the P-trap and then have a turn to go straight out the wall and try to clear the window?
I'm also debating whether I should move the drain location or use bends to make the drain part (below the tee for the vent) go through the same hole? If I don't keep it in the same location I will have to seal that up and make a new hole either inside or just outside of the wall.
We already have the vents for around the eaves but it's a circuit vent as it comes from under the house. I will probably re-use the pipes from it for the plumbing somewhere on the house. Either this bathroom or the guest one.

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My PC died so I'm transferring stuff over to my laptop. Sink has arrived. Formica is on the way. Will still need to fix the floor before installing new stuff.
I'm playing around with the color options. They don't turn out quite right in Sketchup but this is the general idea: (Yes, I know it is a LOT of blue but she loves blue).
This is omewhat the current layout showing the towel rack, towel bar, magazine rack, trash bin, soap dish, and laundry basket. The vanity light is just a placeholder, as is the single curved shower rod (she will have a double one).
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Showerhead isn't right (haven't filled out the adjacent room yet as I need measurements for stuff).
 

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I've made progress on the adjacent bathroom. It currently has no toilet and the floor was messed up. The leveling mix that was first used had lumps in it and made the floor like the surface of the moon and did not spread well. 2nd layer didn't use additive and crumbled a bit but smoothed things out. Layer 3 was where I stopped. Got the ratio of mix wrong due to getting distracted while measuring out the portions, but it turned out ok. Not great but smooth and didn't have the moon-surface bumpy texture anymore.
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Loosely laid the vinyl over it afterward.
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After sweeping, vacuuming, removing tape, pulling up nails, cutting away old flooring, removing old carpet remnants (this bathroom had carpet), I was able to do a perimeter adhesive, got the flooring flat, and trimmed the vinyl. I mopped it but really need to get down and scrub it. My body was not cooperating after hours of working on this to get it flattened out, positioned where I wanted it, etc.
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Needs a lot more cleaning and some baseboards, but I'm happy that it is finally in. Not bad for doing it by myself.
 

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A couple of thoughts:

1) I'm a pretty capable DIY type. Last year, I replaced an old one-piece fiberglass unit (much like yours) with a Swan acrylic tub and surround. It went well, because I could take my time, and we had a second bathroom. This can be a really complex job, with -many- surprises awaiting you. Given only one bathroom, I would consider hiring a pro for this job.

2) Do not use drywall (even greenboard) behind the enclosure, whether tile or panels. Use only cement board (e.g., Hardie board):

https://basc.pnnl.gov/resource-guid...hind-tile-and-panel-tub-and-shower-enclosures

3) I understand PEX will reduce water flow, so I went with copper. I'm not comfortable sweating fittings inside a wall, so I went with SharkBite fittings instead.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions, oldVermonter. Unfortunately, at this point we can't find any pros who will come out to the area. It's very rural. We've had plumbers and electricians no call no show and then ghost us. The only licensed residential contractors in our area died. After two consecutive hurricanes some contractors got hired by insurance companies but refused to do work for self-pay customers and they did shoddy work anyway. They also only worked in town and not in the rural areas.
Does the purple board count as cementboard?
I'm using a direct-to-stud surround. We installed one in my friend's bathroom before, but with a tub. This will be just a shower.
Anything we put on the walls above the shower will be sealed up on all edges, painted, and caulked at all seams.

I plan to have adjacent bathroom operational before we start tearing anything apart in the one with the fiberglass tub. At the very least it will have a toilet and sink operational. The wall panels on the shower were glued to wood panels that have disintegrated and they are falling off.

The floor in the main bathroom is rather squishy so it will need to be reinforced & patched. When the old toilet fell through the floor, the floor was roughly patched with OSB. I think a layer of luan underlayment might help.
 

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I got the floor all cleaned up.
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FINALLY got my Toto Drake installed:
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Toilet seat is waiting on a replacement hinge (which should come in Friday or Saturday). When my body recovers enough I will clear off the vanity. I have a lot of stuff that needs to be put in bins, stuff I no longer want but is useful will get donated. Junk will get thrown out. Tools will get put up in appropriate places, etc. Cabinets need some wood filler on sides of doors (as they have voids), handles will get put on, door that fell off will get put back on, etc. Eventually I will cut open the wall behind the toilet to access plumbing and run some plumbing vents as nothing is vented properly. I'll put wainscoting on the walls after that is done.
 

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Which toilet seat are you waiting on a hinge for?
Kohler Zofa quiet close soft toilet seat. It has a closed cell foam cushion that is warmer than plastic to sit on and is much more comfortable. It discolors easily and no amount of bleach, hydorgen peroxide, toothpaste, etc gets the discoloration out so they discontinued it but it is the most comfortable toilet seat I've ever found. They discontinued the original hinge but Kohler parts website has a replacement that works. It has been shipped and should arrive Friday. USPS does not deliver to me so I have to go to the post office to physically get my packages but they often don't have stuff ready the day it arrives so I might not be able to get it until Saturday (If I make it between 10am and noon-- only time they are open on Saturdays).
I keep checking e-bay to see if they sell any. I wish I'd bought more than 2 when we found them on sale at Lowes around 13 or 14 years ago.
 

Tuttles Revenge

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Ahh... OK. I had some Toto seats we're trashing and I took the hinges out of them to retain as parts.
 

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I wish Toto made a seat like the Kohler one. Would be nice if they could figure out how to stop the staining. I have hard water with a lot of iron it it so the seat took on the color of the iron a bit. But I don't care how it looks since it will be in my personal bathroom and guests won't be using it. I just care that its comfortable.

I still need to go in and clean stuff out and put stuff away but laundry is calling.
 

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The hinge arrived. It was relatively easy to get the old hinge off & new one went on easier than old one came off. Cleaned crevices I couldn't reach with the hinge on. Got the new seat on with some minor difficulties. One being that the bottom plate of the new hinge doesn't stay on & kept falling off (once on the floor and twice into the toilet-- but it's a brand new clean toilet). I used clear tape to tape it on (just a small piece keeps it from coming loose). Another issue was that whoever assembled the pieces put the brackets on wrong. They put them with the rounded part up and the rectangular part down so it kept slipping off. I used some bolts with rubber "bungs" to hold the seat bolts still and protect the porcelain from a bolt moving around in the hole (on another toilet the bolts actually chipped the porcelain a bit).
Screwdriver dropped in toilet: 1x
Bottom plate dropped in toilet: 2x
Bolts & brackets dropped into toilet: 3x
F-bombs dropped: >10x

But the important thing is the seat is installed! I also cleaned up and took boxes out of the room, brought in m Squatty Potty, & a smaller waste bin, and a bath mat (which I'm going to replace because it is too dark).

Lightbulb needs to be replaced as the current one is far too dim & it flickers. I had to use flash to get these pictures.
Bolts I used to install the seat
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Brackets on wrong
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Installed correctly:
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I put a cover plate over where the PEX comes through the floor
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This is the current look
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My laundry cart came in handy at least:
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So, next step is to declutter the vanity and find where to put all that stuff, clean it up, etc. Then tackle the tub to get stuff out of it and put away. I'm still debating on furniture placement. I need to put the door that fell off the vanity back on. But for now (other than the sink being covered) its functional and nice.

I'm not happy with that bath mat though. Looks too dark and it has a tear on one edge. but the light is so dim. I need to grab my stepladder and change the bulb. Current one keeps flickering and is aggravating.
 

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I have since cleaned off the vanity and removed as much of the rust stains from the porcelain covered cast iron sink as I could. The caulk needs to be removed and replaced and I need to hit the edges of the sink with some kind of glazing as the very edges were left unglazed so there's an ugly black perimeter. The sink took a few soaks of baking soda and white vinegar followed by vigorous scrubbing and eventually pumice stones for the most aggressive stains. There are some scratches inside the sink where the rust color remains and there's also a chip (not visible in pictures) but at least it looks cleaner now. I tried removing a red stain from the sheet vinyl but can't seem to get it out. It as from the handle of a tool or paintbrush or something sitting on the floor and it got wet and somehow the dye or ink or whatever was in the handle soaked in to the floor and won't come out (no pics of that just yet).
Sink Before:
1664168242460.png

After:
1664170343165.png

Editing because I forgot to post the picture of the counter cleaned off (taken before I cleaned the sink):
1664173476368.png

I need to refill the holes to get the hinges to go back on the door and for the door to stay on. The box on the floor is there to try to flatten a seam in the vinyl that appeared. I'm hoping it will come out. If not I'll put a bath mat over the area.
 
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Suceress

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My list of what needs to be done in the ugly green bathroom (not in chronological order):
*Repair/Replace subfloor
*Install new vinyl sheet flooring (already purchased)
*Prime and paint walls
*Remove old ugly green tub
*Expand space for shower & put in blocking
*Install shower & wall kit (already purchased)
*Install purple drywall above/around shower (sealing all edges with paint on moisture barrier/flex seal?)
*Install any necessary trim to hide gaps (Instatrim)?
*Install grab bars, shower trim, showerarm, showerhead, shower curtain rod (all purchased)
*Redo plumbing under all fixtures in bathroom to bring up to code (sink S-trap, change tees to wyes, add vents)
*Paint shelves
*Replace sink (already purchased)
*Raise countertop a few inches & install new formica (already purchased)
*Paint cabinets (paint already purchased)
*Replace wall switch for heat/light/vent combo
*Replace outlets
*Install vanity light above window
*Install new tank lever on toilet (already purchased)
*Install baseboard (optional)

In the other bathroom I need to:
*Remove old shower wallset
*Cut hole in painted portion of wall behind toilet to access/add plumbing vents
*Replace S-traps with proper traps
*Repair/reinforce area with cut joist
*Repair/shore up spot under house where ground eroded & support block dropped
*Add something to prevent further erosion
*Replace regular drain on tub with direct drain to avoid conflict with joist
*Put a pressure treated 2x12 under toilet to create platform (but trim to fit shape of toilet
*Fix DWV- replacing drain for toilet & extending up to have flange (already purchased) on 2x12
*Caulk around 3 sides of toilet (leaving back open)
*Replace wall switches & outlets
*Install new vanity light (already purchased)- may require cutting in to wall above vanity to access wiring unless I can gain access to wires in attic
*Use flashing at bottom of moisture barrier above tub to direct water to tub at bottom of wallboard
*Install waterproof hardie backerboard around tub & seal seams
*install Mustee (or other type) glue-up surround
*Install corner shelf grab bar (already purchased)
*Install new showerhead, shower trim, tub spout, shower arm, escutcheon, (already purchased)
*Install new shower curtain rod (already purchased)
*Install new tp holder, towel ring, towel bar, etc
*Build frame for new mirror & install
*Sand, prime, and paint door
*install new lever on door (already purchased)
*install lightweight mirrors for doors on both sides of door (black on bedroom side-- already purchased, white on bathroom side)
*sand & repaint vanity
*Sand & repaint dresser drawers
*Install tank topper cabinet (after painting it)
*Install door and drawer hardware (already purchased)
*Fix hinges on vanity doors
*Install baseboard, wainscoting, and other necessary trim
*Clean tub & repair large scrape
*soak in the bathtub & relax

I might need to replace the vent/light/heat fixtures in both bathrooms but am hoping I can get the old ones to work.

I'm sure I'm forgetting things. I know it looks long but I'm hoping to slowly get progress done. I ordered an attachment for my shopvac that will let me vacuum while sanding drywall mud.

The surround I want to get is a Mustee Durawall 350 three piece glue- up surround. https://www.homedepot.com/p/MUSTEE-...ub-Surround-in-White-350WHT/202041502#overlay
I believe Loctite adhesive is used (which hardieboard said can be used on their hydrodefense boards).

Hardie mfr said to use alkalai resistant fiberglass mesh tape embedded in modified thinset and then sealed over with redguard or some sort of moisure barrier on just the seams and screws. But I'm wondering if thinset is necessary with self-adhesive tape. Also wondering if flex seal can work over seams. I'm also wondering if I should have the boards go all the way to the ceiling (which is almost 9' high) or to terminate at or slightly above the wallset. If I terminate at wallset height or even slightly above, I will use trim to cover the edges and make sure to waterseal all of the top edges. I'm hoping to have uncut edges of hardiboard directly above the tub (leaving 1/8" or 1/4" gap (whichever is necessary for expansion). I'm thinking of using 1/2" instatrim for the gap between wallset & tub. My tub does not have a flange.

If I decide to go all the way to the ceiling with the cementboard stuff I might use purple drywall for the portion above the surround, water seal it on all the edges, & paint it white-- bc it's cheaper than hardieboard by about $10/sheet.

This is a rough sketchup drawing of the bathroom without positions of sink & window finalized and without the laundry cart and other clutter.
1670977267628.png


Has anyone here ever worked with Hardieboard?

Any suggestions?
 
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