rods
New Member
I have a dedicated recirculation system with the dedicated line returning to the bottom of the hot water heater after going through a B & G series 100 pump located right next to the hot water tank. The hot water tank is located in the downstairs recreational area but most of the house and plumbing is on the floor above the hot water heater/tank. I believe that the water leaves the hot water heater and goes along the front of the house to service those areas and then when it reaches the end of the house, it goes to the back of the house and returns back to the starting end of the house and then down to the hot water heater. The water run is about 85 feet each way. Picture the house being a rectangle of 85 feet by 35 feet. I have tried to identify the hot water flow by how long it takes to ultimately get to my shower which it seems is the farthest point. I am assuming that my head height is somewhere 10 and 15 feet. That is from the pump at the bottom of the hot water heater to a guess of how high it goes before turning toward the outlets. The ceiling is about 9 feet from the floor, so if the water is running through the floor all of the way, then 9 feet would be a good guess for the height the water has to go up.
The existing pump (brass) has developed a leak where the motor goes into the pump housing. I have replaced the gasket and it still drips. I read a lot about just getting a new taco pump or grundfos, etc. I feel that I probably have a pump that is over sized and costing a lot to run. Also, this is about my third B & G pump but that could be related to my failures in keeping it oiled. It is a 1/12 hp, 3/4 in line, delivers 9 gpm at 8 feet, 7 gpm at 15 feet of head height.
First questions is do I need to have a brass or stainless pump for potable water or is cast iron ok? Obviously that decision affects the price.
Second question is can I change to a less powerful and more economical pump?
I need a method to limit the running of this pump. Currently and since 1974 it has been set to run continually. I am not perfectly happy with a timer since it would hit the most active periods of use, but not allow for off cycle instant hot water. If I could remotely turn on the pump and have it run for 3 minutes, that would be perfect in conjunction with the timer solution. I plan to install some home automation soon and could put the electrical outlet on the system to do the timing and instant on. I only mention this in case there is a better pump choice for home automation. I have seen the aquastat features where it turns the pump off at certain temperatures even if the timer is still on, and that would be a great feature as well.
So, please help me identify a pump that can handle the head height, the run distance, and works best with timers and aquastats. Or any other kind of suggestion for reducing the cost of instant hot water. I may for now just fix the B & G and put it on a timer, so if you can advise on what kind of time I am looking for that would be great. The electricity is right next to the pump. I am sure I have left things out, so I will be happy to answer any questions and sincerely appreciate any input.
The existing pump (brass) has developed a leak where the motor goes into the pump housing. I have replaced the gasket and it still drips. I read a lot about just getting a new taco pump or grundfos, etc. I feel that I probably have a pump that is over sized and costing a lot to run. Also, this is about my third B & G pump but that could be related to my failures in keeping it oiled. It is a 1/12 hp, 3/4 in line, delivers 9 gpm at 8 feet, 7 gpm at 15 feet of head height.
First questions is do I need to have a brass or stainless pump for potable water or is cast iron ok? Obviously that decision affects the price.
Second question is can I change to a less powerful and more economical pump?
I need a method to limit the running of this pump. Currently and since 1974 it has been set to run continually. I am not perfectly happy with a timer since it would hit the most active periods of use, but not allow for off cycle instant hot water. If I could remotely turn on the pump and have it run for 3 minutes, that would be perfect in conjunction with the timer solution. I plan to install some home automation soon and could put the electrical outlet on the system to do the timing and instant on. I only mention this in case there is a better pump choice for home automation. I have seen the aquastat features where it turns the pump off at certain temperatures even if the timer is still on, and that would be a great feature as well.
So, please help me identify a pump that can handle the head height, the run distance, and works best with timers and aquastats. Or any other kind of suggestion for reducing the cost of instant hot water. I may for now just fix the B & G and put it on a timer, so if you can advise on what kind of time I am looking for that would be great. The electricity is right next to the pump. I am sure I have left things out, so I will be happy to answer any questions and sincerely appreciate any input.