(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18

Thread: Sulfur Eliminator

  1. #1
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lubbock, Texas
    Posts
    4,156

    Default Sulfur Eliminator

    Has anyone tried the "Sulfur Eliminator"?

    http://www.wellwaterstinks.com/

    A customer told me about this and said it works great. It oxidizes in the well so a regular bladder tank can be used instead of the old hydro tank.

    Last edited by Terry; 03-27-2013 at 01:52 PM. Reason: added video

  2. #2
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NE FL, SE GA
    Posts
    320

    Default

    i ran into one of these a few years back, or something very similar anyway. if nothing else, it definitely made the inside of the well and drop pipe disgusting. they say it wont make your pump run, but what happens when a well owner runs water from a faucet? the one i seen, the pump cycled every few minutes. dont think it would be too good for your csv systems valveman, unless you like the idea of 1 very long expensive cycle.

    not saying its useless, but i wasnt impressed. well cant be sealed, right? would think it would need to breath to work, but i dont know. also, how about the snifter/micronizer setups you sometimes see just for light sulfur... you know when you tilt the old holding tank over and see what comes out of the bottom. looks like with this setup, all of that now accumulates inside the well.
    Last edited by justwater; 03-27-2013 at 07:11 PM.

  3. #3
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lubbock, Texas
    Posts
    4,156

    Default

    I talked to the owner of the company, very nice guy. He said the unit only uses 1 1/2 gallons per hour. Even with a small tank and a CSV that won't cause many extra cycles. He also said it works on the water in the top of the well. Makes sense to me that the water in the top of the well rarely gets turned over with a conventional system. When the pump draws water it comes directly from the water "vein", so the water in the top of the well never gets used and actually gives a good place for the stinky stuff in the water to live. The Sulfur Eliminator drops aerated water from the top and therefore stirs all the water in the well. I guess the stuff that gets percipitated out has to have some place to go, so I can see it might go to the bottom of the well. But if the pump isn't set right on the bottom, that might be a good place for that stuff to go. But you have a valid point JW and I would like to hear from some people who have had one of these long enough to have discovered if that is a problem or not.

  4. #4
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NE FL, SE GA
    Posts
    320

    Default

    I no doubt seen a different setup bc it ran much more than 1.5gph. Didnt have the little air filter either. Im also curious to hear if anyone that has experience with it.

    seems like it would work best with high storage wells and low demands. might be wrong though.

  5. #5
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lubbock, Texas
    Posts
    4,156

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by justwater View Post
    well cant be sealed, right? would think it would need to breath to work, but i dont know.
    It is vented. The little fitting where the tube goes in the well has a vent on the side.

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member Heart0610's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    New London, NC
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I installed the Sulfur Eliminator on my well over 2 years ago and it works great. I had a problem with iron in my well so I installed the deluxe model. It catches the iron before it goes back in my well. I referred my dad who just had the rotten egg smell and he installed the regular model. His still has a filter on it that he rinses off about once a year. He says that his water taste so much better since the smell has been gone. Same goes for my well also. Best product ever for the money. They don't charge you until the smell is gone so you can't really beat that.

  7. #7
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NE FL, SE GA
    Posts
    320

    Default

    sounds amazing.

    wheres slusser when u need him.

  8. #8
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    He's over in the misnamed water softener forum where this type post should have been moved to. That forum is a water quality improvement and equipment forum, it's not just for softeners.

    I have watched the video and read all the info on the site. Unless the water spigot valve is adjusted, or there is a 1.5 gpHr flow control, either way the pump has to cycle.

    To get water out of the well the pump (and that spigot) is getting water from the pump inlet, not the top of the water column.

    The aeration caused by the falling water isn't going to aerate much H2S because H2S comes out of solution naturally when the water pressure falls and/or comes into contact with air (oxygen). So there will be little to no H2S in the water at the top of the water column and more the farther down the column you go.

    In the south most wells larger than 2" are 4" and that equipment is taking water form the pump inlet and treating it at 1.5 gpHr over 24-48 hrs. IIRC a 4" well holds like 3/4 gallon per foot of water? A 6" is 1.47 gal/ft. So the pump has to cycle although they say it doesn't. Actually it's the same as a 1.5 gpHr leak back into the well. The usual pressure tank size and switch settings should cause the pump to cycle about every 4-6 hrs with no water use in the house.

    IMO the thing shouldn't work well or at all with a rock bore well where the recovery water usually comes in from below the pump inlet. A screened well has screening above the pump inlet, so when the house uses water it gets treated water IF there has been sufficient time for a treatment being done at 1.5 gpHr to treat all the water above the pump inlet. A rock bore well should always have dissolved H2S (and its odor) still in the water no matter how long the 1.5 gpHr has been done between water uses in the house that does not pull the static water level down. But then... any pump is only moving water from the static water level in the well due to atmospheric pressure... So maybe it does allow treated water until the static water level stabilizes but... most of the treatment is being done naturally because of the pressure drop and air on top the water column.

    I think it is sold by allowing use of it before the people pay for it so if it doesn't work, the person throws it away or returns it at their expense. And I doubt anyone is told how often that happens. I say that based on knowing what the materials to make the thing would cost me and what the purchase price is. The prices are quite high. But then they say they have a patten on something and they may not be making that part themselves. I would think they have a patten on the whole thing though.

    The product may work for some people in the south but I have my doubts it would work well across the non freezing areas of the US. Or if it would work well or for very long with iron or any type of bacteria in the water.

    It looks like the Deluxe model is using a GAC or carbon block filter cartridge. They don't remove soluble/dissolved iron, only rust, but then air oxidizes iron and that will be happening as their product adds air in the return line.. And there should be a bunch of rust buildup inside the casing at and above the water line and some falling down the water column to be sucked into the pump inlet when the pump runs.

    Bottom line.... I wouldn't sell it or buy it. Especially for $400-$600 and without a spigot at the well.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member VAWellDriller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    161

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    He's over in the misnamed water softener forum where this type post should have been moved to. That forum is a water quality improvement and equipment forum, it's not just for softeners.

    I have watched the video and read all the info on the site. Unless the water spigot valve is adjusted, or there is a 1.5 gpHr flow control, either way the pump has to cycle.

    To get water out of the well the pump (and that spigot) is getting water from the pump inlet, not the top of the water column.

    The aeration caused by the falling water isn't going to aerate much H2S because H2S comes out of solution naturally when the water pressure falls and/or comes into contact with air (oxygen). So there will be little to no H2S in the water at the top of the water column and more the farther down the column you go.

    In the south most wells larger than 2" are 4" and that equipment is taking water form the pump inlet and treating it at 1.5 gpHr over 24-48 hrs. IIRC a 4" well holds like 3/4 gallon per foot of water? A 6" is 1.47 gal/ft. So the pump has to cycle although they say it doesn't. Actually it's the same as a 1.5 gpHr leak back into the well. The usual pressure tank size and switch settings should cause the pump to cycle about every 4-6 hrs with no water use in the house.

    IMO the thing shouldn't work well or at all with a rock bore well where the recovery water usually comes in from below the pump inlet. A screened well has screening above the pump inlet, so when the house uses water it gets treated water IF there has been sufficient time for a treatment being done at 1.5 gpHr to treat all the water above the pump inlet. A rock bore well should always have dissolved H2S (and its odor) still in the water no matter how long the 1.5 gpHr has been done between water uses in the house that does not pull the static water level down. But then... any pump is only moving water from the static water level in the well due to atmospheric pressure... So maybe it does allow treated water until the static water level stabilizes but... most of the treatment is being done naturally because of the pressure drop and air on top the water column.

    I think it is sold by allowing use of it before the people pay for it so if it doesn't work, the person throws it away or returns it at their expense. And I doubt anyone is told how often that happens. I say that based on knowing what the materials to make the thing would cost me and what the purchase price is. The prices are quite high. But then they say they have a patten on something and they may not be making that part themselves. I would think they have a patten on the whole thing though.

    The product may work for some people in the south but I have my doubts it would work well across the non freezing areas of the US. Or if it would work well or for very long with iron or any type of bacteria in the water.

    It looks like the Deluxe model is using a GAC or carbon block filter cartridge. They don't remove soluble/dissolved iron, only rust, but then air oxidizes iron and that will be happening as their product adds air in the return line.. And there should be a bunch of rust buildup inside the casing at and above the water line and some falling down the water column to be sucked into the pump inlet when the pump runs.

    Bottom line.... I wouldn't sell it or buy it. Especially for $400-$600 and without a spigot at the well.
    I follow your logic----must correct you on two things.....screened wells are not screened above the pump inlet....the pump is always above the screen, most of the time significantly higher. I don't know about rock wells in other than ones I service in VA/NC, but they are always top feeders ....(pump set deeper than the water bearing fractures).

  10. #10
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lubbock, Texas
    Posts
    4,156

    Default

    The 1.5 gallon per hour cycling the pump once every 6-8 ours is not a problem. Even with a CSV and a small tank, cycling once every hour is not that bad. I can also see where this would work on the water above the pump, which probably doesn’t get exchanged with normal use.

    The only thing I see is if the pump never pulls the static level down, and all the water comes from below the pump, you would be pulling in untreated water. But if the static level does pull down when the pump starts, it would be getting treated water and all would be good. I also wonder what happens to the stuff that precipitates out in the well. Does it stick to the casing or fall to the bottom? I guess if the static level pulls down, the pump may suck in this stuff and some of it gets caught in the filter on the Sulfur Eliminator.

    Even though I don’t really understand everything about it, there are several people who say it is working great. I would really like to hear from more people who have one.

  11. #11
    Well Drilling/Service justwater's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    NE FL, SE GA
    Posts
    320

    Default

    i think i agree with slusser on about all of it except what vawelldriller pointed out. although i will say that rock wells down here absolutely enter from the bottom, pump always inside the casing above the rock here.

  12. #12
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by VAWellDriller View Post
    I follow your logic----must correct you on two things.....screened wells are not screened above the pump inlet....the pump is always above the screen, most of the time significantly higher. I don't know about rock wells in other than ones I service in VA/NC, but they are always top feeders ....(pump set deeper than the water bearing fractures).
    Sorry I didn't see this until now. I'm not a driller and have not seen a screened well being drilled but I have seen diagrams of screening above a pump, mainly in low producing wells with multiple sections of screening. Possibly due to the pump not being set at the correct depth.

    Rock bore wells feed from anywhere below the casing, above and below the pump but, not from the actual bottom/end of the hole as many lay people seem to believe because they think the hole taps a pool/stream of water.

    I have seen many recorded camera inspections showing that. That was due to me at one time getting real serious about doing camera inspections and well cleaning. In PA where I'm from (historically #1 in the number of rural population on private residential wells until the 2000 census when TX went to #1) pumps are set anywhere from 5' to 20' off the bottom of the hole up, depending on the recovery rate, depth, draw down and such. Many are up to 500' deep with the average of 150' to 300'. Most wells in PA are 6" and rock bore with more than enough recovery rate. That allows many pumps to be set based on price rather than to buy a larger pump to be set deeper.

    Sediment of any kind (rust, oxidized H2S, turbidity) that isn't sucked into the pump always falls to the bottom of the well. Rust caused by oxidized iron clings to the casing from the static water level down to the bottom of the draw down area. Some of that that rust can fall off the casing and drop pipe and cable when it dries out due to the static water level decreasing seasonally or drought etc.. Sometimes pumps are raised to get them up out of that sediment rather than purging the well because pump hoist or other equipment can't get to the well without serious damage due to the size or layout of the property etc.. In all my years of pump work I only knew of one pump hoist truck and 99% of wells had 169 psi or 200 psi polypipe, I never saw any PVC and only 2 wells on galvanized pipe. Pump guys use portable pump pulling machines like the Pull-A-Pump etc..
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hB_jzeU1Xgw
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  13. #13
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    ct
    Posts
    712

    Default

    Back in 1965 my father bought a new Monitor pump hoist, after that every single submersible went in on galvanized pipe. Why? So the plumbers couldn't pull them when they needed to be replaced.

    Up z dazys and sch 80 put everyone in the pump business

  14. #14
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    When it comes to water quality I say galvanized pipe and fittings should be illegal.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  15. #15
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    ct
    Posts
    712

    Default

    Plumbers shouldn't touch pumps either.....

    We don't use galvanized now except on deep sets.

Similar Threads

  1. Bio-Clean, Bacteria Waste Eliminator, Bioclean
    By Terry in forum Drain Cleaning
    Replies: 28
    Last Post: 01-17-2014, 07:03 AM
  2. sulfur
    By Woodenshoe in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 04-22-2009, 11:59 PM
  3. Bio-Clean, Bacteria Waste Eliminator, Bioclean
    By Terry in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-27-2009, 09:48 PM
  4. Air Eliminator
    By JOE1934 in forum HVAC Heating & Cooling
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-10-2007, 03:17 PM
  5. Sulfur Smell again
    By PennyNJ in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 12-01-2005, 11:59 AM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •