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Thread: system Recommendations for well

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member patrick2269's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    That is great to hear. Hopefully it will take care of the problem and very little filtration will be needed. With your permission, I may use your pictures in my training seminars.
    You can, I can send more pictures if you want

  2. #17
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick2269 View Post
    I had a well contractor come run a camera down the well. I have heavy iron buildup and its braking down the casing. Every time my pump turns on pulling all stuff of the walls causing my high Turbidity and the pieces of hard sediment are actually pieces of my casing breaking up. He said the water in the vanes is clear and he could put in a heavy duty PVC liner and that would clear up the water by not letting iron buildup on the steel walls and then fine tune my water with any needed filters.
    You need to know more about the pump you have. What gpm and HP it is and, at what depth is it in the well.

    The acidic water is what is causing the casing to deteriorate, not the rust build up from the iron content.

    The driller should be able to use a well cleaning brush to clean the rust off the inside of the casing. And IMO he should have done that as soon as he started the camera inspection and saw the rust build up; cameras don't see through rust.

    A PVC liner is usually 4" and allows just enough space for a standard 4" submersible pump by about a 16th inch around the pump; they are 3 7/8" OD. With your iron content rust build up in the PVC may make pulling the pump difficult in time.

    That 5 gpm you mentioned is the volume of water that refills the well while or after you pump water out of it. For the static water level to fall, you have to be taking more than 5 gpm out.

    A 6" casing/well holds 1.47 gal per foot of water above the inlet of the pump. A 1/2 HP 10-13 gpm pump set at 150' and operated at 40/60 psi would provide more than enough gpm to backwash most types of the filters you need. A larger HP 10-13 gpm pump could be set much deeper.

    I would suggest a backwashed mixed bed acid neutralizing filter over any type solution feeder and its required retention tank. An AN filter will add about 10+ gpg of hardness. And then you'll probably want a softener.

    The model number of your pump will tell us what HP and gpm it is. Some times that info is written on the underside of the well casing cap, or on a pump control box if you have one, or on the pressure tank. And there's always the receipt for the pump installation.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member lifespeed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Slusser View Post
    The acidic water is what is causing the casing to deteriorate, not the rust build up from the iron content.
    Good point, I did not notice how acid the water is. That is pretty bad. Kind of surprising a well driller familiar with the area would put a steel casing in an acid well, isn't it?
    Lifespeed

  4. #19
    DIY Junior Member patrick2269's Avatar
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    I was not home when he came out the girl friend was here. so he called me over the phone and that is about what I got from what he was trying to explain my problem and solution over the phone. I will ask if he got any info off the pump. I have only been in the house 2 years and the pressure tank and switch where replaced before i moved in so i have no info about the pump.
    so I guess my next ?
    Is a PVC liner a good idea?
    with my casing being 127ft can the pump go down to 150ft? like you said set a larger pump deeper

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member patrick2269's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lifespeed View Post
    Good point, I did not notice how acid the water is. That is pretty bad. Kind of surprising a well driller familiar with the area would put a steel casing in an acid well, isn't it?
    I don't know who drilled the well back in 99. but from my understanding from the guy i am talking to is that its a common problem and the county knows about it but does nothing to require the drillers to use anything different than steel. its really much up to the owner of the land to know about the problem and fix it or ask the driller to use a different material

  6. #21
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    As long as the pump can go down the PVC liner, it can be set at anywhere below the end of the liner. IN the liner won't allow proper flow to cool the pump and your present pump may not be able to be set that deep. If you need a new pump, I'd go that route before having a liner installed, that's because the casing may not be as bad as the driller thinks since he didn't clean the rust buildup off it. And then there is the part about iron causing corrosion of steel casing. Maybe you heard him wrong or are off a bit from what he said so call him and ask about that.

    There are a few very solid reasons for steel casing, one is the fact that most rock bore wells (in to rock) aren't straight enough for plastic. Plus it usually takes decades for acidic water in a well to cause the casing problems. Bad electrical connections at the pump pigtail or damaged wiring or splices from the pump up the well can cause problems very soon though. Using the casing as a ground electrode may also.

    BTW, we all should want to become as independent as we can and want less intrusion into our lives by the government.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member grey2112's Avatar
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    I recall back when I lived in TN up in the mountains that we ended up having to have the same PVC shaft protector put in on our well shaft as every time it rained really hard it stirred up the water in the well and we got nasty looking water coming out. The PVC shaft protector with the hundreds of cuts in the shaft really helped to reduce that.

  8. #23
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    The problem was surface water infiltration and they should have cased out the well and drilled it deeper because just adding a slotted PVC liner they've allowed the infiltration of surface water to continue into the well and that may cause contamination you can't see, taste or smell.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member patrick2269's Avatar
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    I was told my Pump is at 200ft

  10. #25
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    A pump only has to move water for the static water level but since it is at 200', I'd guess it was a 3/4hp but we don't know the gpm.

    Have you talked to the camera guy about iron causing corrosion?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  11. #26
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    Let me say that I know nothing about water treatment, but I would have the pump pulled and the well cleaned either with a brush or by surging to clean up and break down the iron. I would then have an old test pump installed to clear the well of the iron that is in suspension, followed by installation of your present pump if it is still good. Your contractor should be willing to take it to the pump shop and have it tested while he is doing the other work. You may find that the surging has helped to increase the well yield, another added benefit.

    As for improper pump cooling in a lined well, BS. It will be no worse than setting a pump in an open hole. As a matter of fact, if the slots are at the bottom of the well, the pump will draw water past the motor when it runs, much like a porter shroud in a standing column geothermal well.

  12. #27
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    I'm glad to see you agree with me about cleaning the well but...

    You are saying that when he uses water and his static water level falls the water to the pump is coming up from below the pump... BS

    Also, since his pump is at 200', I doubt his casing goes down that deep so his pump wouldn't be in the liner.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  13. #28
    DIY Senior Member craigpump's Avatar
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    Sure it would, run the liner to the bottom of the well and run two slotted pieces in the hole first with a pump setting at 160'.

  14. #29
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    If it was my well I'd have it cleaned and then test the water and if there was a need I'd go with a chlorine pellet dropper before I'd go to a liner.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  15. #30
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Wow, your advice for a deteriorating well casing is to drop chlorine pellets into it? Would that not just exacerbate the situation?

    I would put in a liner.

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