(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: How do I remove the top screen from a control valve?

  1. #1
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,686

    Default How do I remove the top screen from a control valve?

    In this case, an Autotrol 255... doesn't seem to want to untwist. I'm leaning toward crushing the screen and replacing it when I reinstall the valve, but if there's a way to do it without destroying it, I'd love to save the big bucks. Are top screens interchangeable among different valve brands?

  2. #2
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ocala, Florida
    Posts
    666

    Default

    They do get stuck, you just have to work at it. If it is full of iron, use some iron out. I've used the same upper basket on Clack as well as Fleck valves.

  3. #3
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    This one isn't stuck -- valve has never been used (it's along story) -- and it twists back and forth freely about 1/32" along the diameter. There are 4 little locking tabs on the outer rim (if it's anythinglike the Fleck top basket) that are doing a damn fine job of locking. I see no way to unlock it

  4. #4
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    The clack stacked screens tend to lock in almost permanently. The standard screens should be removable. Clack and Fleck screens are deifinitely different. The Clack screens will usually work in Fleck, the Fleck screens have difficulty working in Clacks without trimming 2 of the tabs on the screen.

    Keep at it, I doubt you will damage the valve, just the screen, and they are cheap.

  5. #5
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Keep at it, I doubt you will damage the valve, just the screen, and they are cheap.
    Cheap is good. This one is history .

  6. #6
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Ocala, Florida
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    The clack stacked screens tend to lock in almost permanently. The standard screens should be removable. Clack and Fleck screens are deifinitely different. The Clack screens will usually work in Fleck, the Fleck screens have difficulty working in Clacks without trimming 2 of the tabs on the screen.

    Keep at it, I doubt you will damage the valve, just the screen, and they are cheap.
    I didn't know that. I guess I've always used the Clack upper basket unknowingly, which as you stated fits on the Fleck, and thought they were interchangable. Thanks for the info.

  7. #7
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    As I stated, I'm working with an Autotrol (GE) 255 valve. Dealer who sold me the valve gave me a Fleck screen, I think. Says it'll work. I'll find out tomorrow.
    Last edited by Mikey; 03-22-2013 at 07:58 AM. Reason: corrected mega-typo

  8. #8
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    The Clack top screen is slightly less expensive and since it works on both, a lot of companies use it for both. The Fleck screen will work on Autotrol just fine.

    I only found out the Fleck would not work on Clack about 10 years ago. I didn't have a clack screen and tried to use the Fleck on a WS1, fail.

    FYI, the Fleck top screen is usually grey, the Clacks are natural.

  9. #9
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Here are two screens: The one on the right is grey, ordered from softenerparts.com as Fleck p/n TDB1050-BS. The one on the left was bought from a local dealer, his internal p/n FILA0072, described as "Upper screen, fits Autotrol and Fleckenstein". Both have 45 ribs and roughly equivalent slot areas (within the limits of my measurment capability) of around 1.06 sq in. The only obvious differences are that the Fleck "base" is 0.286" thick and it locks in by turning counterclockwise; the natural one has a 0.487" thick base and locks by turning clockwise. Once locked in, I don't see any way to get it out without destroying it. The Fleck looks a little sturdier, but that may be an optical delusion.

    Name:  upper screens.jpg
Views: 80
Size:  44.7 KB

  10. #10
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    The Clack equipment is also different in the valves and heads. They have two locks in the valves that make removal very difficult. The Fleck has four slides, they also lock but the screens are usually removable. The Fleck to screen shown looks more like a knock off than a true Fleck. The real Fleck one is a lighter grey. I could be wrong due to the color differences in the picture/monitor, but... The Fleck original is stronger in my opinion than the Clack standard top screens. Clack makes the best heavy duty top screens on the market but they are very expensive. Name:  D1225-05-2T.jpg
Views: 76
Size:  3.1 KB
    Last edited by ditttohead; 03-22-2013 at 12:00 PM.

  11. #11
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    The Fleck to[p] screen shown looks more like a knock off than a true Fleck. The real Fleck one is a lighter grey. I could be wrong due to the color differences in the picture/monitor, but... The Fleck original is stronger in my opinion than the Clack standard top screens. Clack makes the best heavy duty top screens on the market but they are very expensive.
    Can you recommend a dealer somewhere who will sell me what I actually order? I've only seen one screen with a molded p/n in it, and it was a 1236 sold to me as a Fleck 40922. God knows what I'm getting if there's no identifying mark.

  12. #12
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    The 1236 is a Clack screen, not the 40922.

    PM sent

  13. #13
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Central Florida
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Thanks; all I knew is it wasn't the Fleck.

Similar Threads

  1. How do I remove the brine piston assembly at the control head of a Fleck 2510?
    By Biddle in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-01-2011, 09:22 PM
  2. Air Control Valve
    By Chrisw1958 in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-18-2010, 01:59 PM
  3. cant remove cold valve
    By hotrod351 in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 01-20-2009, 06:58 AM
  4. remove RPZ valve?
    By lawnpsycho in forum Irrigation / Sprinkler Forum
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-08-2008, 06:30 AM
  5. Unable to remove control handles/lever
    By maree in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-27-2008, 05:20 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •