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Thread: Replacing/retrofitting an old wall mounted toilet

  1. #16
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Also I forgot to post this picture earlier:

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  2. #17
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Regarding the question on noise: Terry says in his reviews that the noise may startle, but less than before on the UltraFlush. Some toilets are noisier than others, but since they use the same mechanism inside, it's going to be a function of the shape and thickness of the china, and also where it's installed. I have some identical toilets that are louder in some locations than others -- just the nature of acoustics, I guess.

    Here's the terrylove.com thread on the UltraFlush: http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...comments/page1

    It basically confirms what we have been saying, i.e. don't get the dual-flush. But it raises another issue: bowl wash. The 1.1 apparently doesn't have very good bowl wash. The 1.6 is apparently-better. The pressure-assists in general apparently have less bowl wash than say the latest Totos. But of course, all the low flows have less bowl-wash than many older toilets, because there isn't as much water used...

  3. #18
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Hi all,

    I was thinking about moving the plumbing so I could get a regular Toto toilet. Check out the pictures. Looks like they put the plumbing above the original foundation wall (the bathroom is in an addition). Would it be possible to put a hole through the section of foundation wall and shoot it up through the floor based on the pictures you see? The wall is like 12" thick. Looks like a major job.


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  4. #19
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Maybe............

    What is that section of block doing?

  5. #20
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    Maybe............

    What is that section of block doing?
    Looks like it is supporting the formerly exterior wall which is now an interior wall between the original room and addition. Basically what they did was open up a little section of block for a person to fit through to get to the original crawlspace from the addition's crawl space. The other 20' or so of block are holding the wall up except for that section they removed. That section of block under the toilet is 2-3 feet long and about a foot thick. Looks like there is a sill plate sitting on it under the framing. The waste pipe goes up the wall where the rear outlet toilet connects to a flange in the wall.
    Last edited by lordmoosh; 05-27-2013 at 07:41 AM.

  6. #21
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    You need enough drop for the toilet bend and then slope of at least 1/4" per foot to where you can join into the main drain line. ANd, you'd want the flange hole 12" from the finished wall to maximize your choices of properly fitting 'normal' toilets. A lot of people prefer a wall-mounted toilet since they're easier to clean, but you do have LOTS more choices of styles if you go with a floor mount traditional toilet with a flange at 12". FWIW, code requires a minimum of 15" to any obstruction either side of the toilet centerline, and if you're moving things, the inspector will want to see that.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member AndrewNYC's Avatar
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    the picture is completely useless.

  8. #23
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewNYC View Post
    the picture is completely useless.
    Come again?

  9. #24
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    You need enough drop for the toilet bend and then slope of at least 1/4" per foot to where you can join into the main drain line. ANd, you'd want the flange hole 12" from the finished wall to maximize your choices of properly fitting 'normal' toilets. A lot of people prefer a wall-mounted toilet since they're easier to clean, but you do have LOTS more choices of styles if you go with a floor mount traditional toilet with a flange at 12". FWIW, code requires a minimum of 15" to any obstruction either side of the toilet centerline, and if you're moving things, the inspector will want to see that.
    Hi Jim,

    Not looking to move the toilet. I want to put it in the same exact spot but just have it go through the floor. I think I can meet the slope and flange distance. My concern is with the block wall. Do you guys ever get jobs where you need to put a hole through a foundation block wall for a pipe to an addition? Thanks.

  10. #25
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Nothing says you can't go around the wall (well, there are limits on the number of turns before a cleanout is required) unless the flange would be immediately lined up with that wall.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  11. #26
    DIY Senior Member lordmoosh's Avatar
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    Hmmm this is a tough call. On one hand I am stuck with some inferior options and on the other hand I'd have to go through a lot of hell to put in a Toto.

    We spoke a lot about Gerber options. Does anyone have any experience with the American Standard Yorkville toilets? How do they fare against the Gerbers we talked about?

    1.1GPF and 1.6GPF options

  12. #27
    DIY Junior Member jackbyrnes's Avatar
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    I am having a similar problem. I have a home in Wisconsin and all the toilets (3) are wall hung. I am replacing them with rear ejection and floor mount. This requires a toilet flange on the wall to hold the anchor bolts. My problem is the pipe is black abs and for some reason they used a 4x3 fitting into the 3" t. I cant figure out what fitting to use on this. I wish i could remove the fitting they put in and go straight into the 3" t. This is the picture of the makeup that i am working with.Name:  Wisconsin Toilet.JPG
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  13. #28
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I have a home in Wisconsin and all the toilets (3) are wall hung.
    Why don't use install new wall hung bowls?
    Gerber makes the Maxwell
    http://www.terrylove.com/pdf/gerber_20-021_spec.pdf

    And American Standared makes a Glenwall.

    If you go with floor mount, rear discharge, you will need to lower the flange to 4-1/4" off the finished floor and change the flange.
    If you do change the flange, you can drill it out with a rambit.

  14. #29
    DIY Junior Member jackbyrnes's Avatar
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    Thanks Terry. Actually the center is at 4 1/4 already. From your experience is the fitting on the picture going into the t a closet collar without a flange? If it is do you know of a replacement flange that i could use between this fitting and the the 3" t? I was going to do wall hung again but wanted the extra support that the floor mount offered. I was going to replace and go floor mount, but that would require lowering the ceilings in 2 stacked bathrooms below the highest point. I am using the American Standard Yorkville.

  15. #30
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackbyrnes View Post
    the extra support that the floor mount offered
    Any particular reason or experience that led to this? Unless everyone in the house weighs 500 pounds and likes to jump on the toilets, I don't know this to be a realistic concern.

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