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Thread: Moving toilet 3 inches if easy access?

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    DIY Junior Member Williamsem's Avatar
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    Default Moving toilet 3 inches if easy access?

    We have a small powder room that is getting a face lift with the kitchen. I decided on the Toto Aquia II. I'd like to move the toilet 3 inches, especially with the narrow Toto going in. The wall is only 64 inches long with the flange centered 20.25 inches from the wall. The current wide toilet with 24 inch vanity feels a bit lopsided already, with 40 inches for the toilet area. With the Toto I think it will look odd, though if I move it over 3 inches I can put a 30 inch vanity in (it would fit without moving the toilet, but there would be roughly 6 inches from vanity to toilet and 12 inches toilet to wall).

    We are taking up the floor to install cork tiles, so there will likely be subfloor work needed. There is a utility room in the basement directly below the powder room with open ceiling. The pipe is PVC and runs parallel to the floor joist.

    Is this more of a headache than it's worth? It seems like this would be the ideal set up for a relatively easy move, but is it hard/labor intensive? I read a lot of questions about difficult moves, but have no idea how expensive something like this situation might be.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Code requires at least 15" OC to the sides of the toilet centerline. And, you'll find that sometimes feels cramped. As long as you have at least that amount, moving it is all aesthetic. Depending on the type of pipe involved, it may be easy to move.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    It would depend on much pipe you have to work with. Installing such a small offset might be a bigger challenge than we could guess without actually seeing the drain.

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    DIY Junior Member Williamsem's Avatar
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    To me, with no experience whatsoever, it looks promising. But I have no idea. I don't want to even bother the GC by asking if it's going to cost a lot, but if it's likely to be inexpensive and not add too much time I'd get a quote on adding it to the contract. I would be going to the right in the picture (I think, it's showing up rotated oddly, it would move toward the larger pipe side)

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    Last edited by Williamsem; 03-17-2013 at 03:34 PM.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Moving the plumbing in this looks easy...patching the floor will take longer. The most expensive material will likely be the fittings, but in the scheme of things, it's going to be a lot less than the labor. I'm no good at estimating what a pro would charge, and I work a lot slower than someone who does it every day, so I'm not a good judge.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    I'm not sure what else is connected there, but using a heel inlet bend with the heel inlet on the horizontal is strictly prohibited by our plumbing code. Moving the toilet over should be easy, but there is more to be done there than only that.

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    DIY Junior Member Williamsem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    I'm not sure what else is connected there, but using a heel inlet bend with the heel inlet on the horizontal is strictly prohibited by our plumbing code. Moving the toilet over should be easy, but there is more to be done there than only that.
    I'm going to take a guess that you're talking about the part in the middle that goes up to the toilet? It is actually going straight up through the floor. Between the camera angle and the picture getting all twisted when uploading it's very hard to tell, my appologies!

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