Toilet Never Stops Running....

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WJcandee

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Before you replace the flush valve, one other thought is to look at this thread -- sound familiar? Then look at Redwood's suggestion at the end and see if that helps. https://terrylove.com/forums/showthread.php?24473-Help-with-flush-valve-replacement

Also, I would call Korky at 1-800-LAVELLE and see if the 4030PK Universal 2" Flush Valve kit (4030BP at Lowes) wouldn't fit just fine. I have installed it on several American Standard toilets that had a different setup than the Korky and it works great. It is, of course, always a bit of a pain to remove and reinstall the tank, so I would try really cleaning the area around your flush valve and make sure that you can't get it to work with the new seal that you bought. Interesting to see, isn't it, that the Mansfield tower thingy is "notorious" for having the seal disintegrate when you go to replace it?
 

broesau

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Sounds like it might also be the ballcock creating a siphon. Sometimes if the fill hose is in the overflow tube too deep it can create a siphon and appear that the toilet is running. It also appears that you have the flush lever rigged up to the flush valve with a chain. Mansfield has a handle that is designed to go through the opening or keyhole on the top of the flush valve. If that chain has gotten under the seal it will run or if it has cracked the tower it will let water in and leak. Go get a new 1/2" compression shut off valve, a new braided supply line, Fluidmaster and Mansfield seal & Handle. That should solve everything.
 

WJcandee

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Sounds like it might also be the ballcock creating a siphon. Sometimes if the fill hose is in the overflow tube too deep it can create a siphon and appear that the toilet is running. It also appears that you have the flush lever rigged up to the flush valve with a chain. Mansfield has a handle that is designed to go through the opening or keyhole on the top of the flush valve. If that chain has gotten under the seal it will run or if it has cracked the tower it will let water in and leak. Go get a new 1/2" compression shut off valve, a new braided supply line, Fluidmaster and Mansfield seal & Handle. That should solve everything.

Yeah. No. He already replaced the fill valve with a 528 and he likes it. He presumably followed the instructions re the refill hose, but we can check. The problem predated the new fill valve, so probably not the issue. He described the difficulty that everyone experiences with Mansfields to the effect that the seal disintegrated. You are right that the tower may be cracked, although I'm guessing it's the seal. I think replacing that pos with a flapper-style flush valve will also solve his problem completely, if he's up to it.

He did have a question that you could help him with vis a vis the new shutoff. HJ had some thoughts about how challenging it will be for him given that he will have to cut the old one off pretty close to the wall because of the way it is installed. Give that a read and let us know what you think.
 

broesau

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Looks like a standard 1/2" compression stop. Shouldn't need to cut the pipe, just take off the old valve, ferrel and nut. If you can't get the ferrel and nut off you might be able to reuse them with the new stop. This isn't ideal, but it can be done as a last resort. Depending on how much pipe there is after the ferrel you may be able to pop a shark bite angle stop on there. There are adapters for handle pullers to remove ferrels, but I wouldn't invest in one for just one stop, but you might want to buy one to replace stops in the future if all of them in the house are like this one.
 

DaddyLogan

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As I promised, an update after complete resolution. First of all Redwood's suggestion was the correct one. I gave the new seal a good spin or two and bingo...I felt it adjust itself in the lip like it should be. I thought I had it seated correctly but the "spin" is the trick for sure. After that the toilet flushed, filled and shut off with no sound what-so-ever!!! Success

Now, onto the new angle valve. After reading through what you all said about it being so close to the wall, I decided to call in a professional on this matter (had other work for him too, mainly a clogged kitchen line) and it is a very good thing I did. He said the exact same thing about not enough room so what he did was cut everything off and then welded on some copper pipe to extend it out from the wall. The rest of the installation was simple after that. Here is the pic with all the new fitting:



Anyhow, once again a huge thank you to everyone who chimed in on this thread to help out a newbie!!! I wish all "HELP/DYI forums had this much support, and good support at that!!! I always feel a thread should have a conclusion so people can reference it so that is why I am doing the follow up. Oh, it is also a good ides to check the tank bolts once in a while...mine were loose and needed a good turn or two! ;-)

(Look at that shiny new flange!!!!!)

peace out,
daddylogan
 
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WJcandee

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Thanks for the update! I always like to know how people made out with our advice. I will also put on the front burner that trick from Redwood's post in the other thread, for the next time this issue comes up.

Congratulations for persevering, and for striking a good balance between professional work and DIY. The new braided line, shiny escutcheon plate and new shutoff all look good, and I know you will enjoy that Korky fill valve. You should be back in business for a while!
 
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benlinus

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Take off the lid and turnoff the water if the water stops running right away then the float valve in the tank needs ajustment or replaced , if the water continues to drain into the bowl then the flapper in the bottom of the tank is dirty or worn out and needs to be replaced , also look to see if the chain (witch some do )isn't catching on something and holding the flap open
 

WJcandee

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Take off the lid and turnoff the water if the water stops running right away then the float valve in the tank needs ajustment or replaced , if the water continues to drain into the bowl then the flapper in the bottom of the tank is dirty or worn out and needs to be replaced , also look to see if the chain (witch some do )isn't catching on something and holding the flap open

It's nice of you to be helpful, but if you read the thread, you would realize that he didn't have a flapper-type flush valve, and he replaced the float ball with a Korky 528.
 
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