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Thread: Toilet Never Stops Running....

  1. #16
    DIY Junior Member daddylogan's Avatar
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    Ok...decided to keep it simple today. Save the turn off valve for another day. Right now I just want to get rid of the leaky-running toilet. However I have not good news to report. Here is what I did. I believe I have a Mansfield so first thing after clearing out the old fill valve was to replace the rubber gasket/seal on the flush valve. That was hell in itself because the old one just crumbled and I could not get a grip on the ring itself to get it off. Finally, I got a fingernail file, got it in-between the rubber and pushed until I could grab a good chunk and then get it off. Then I took a toothbrush and cleaned out the lip that it sits it. Put the new one in with no probelm, slipped the housing back over and screwed on the top. Then I put in the fill valve as per directions...no problem..took about 7 minutes to get it lined up with the flush valve, locked in place and then hand tightened under the tank. Connected old water line to hand tight and turned the water back on...no leaks!!! So the toilet starts to fill and when it gets to the top the fill valve shuts off perfectly but guess what??? Water still seeping into the toilet. So I barely push down on the flush valve and the leaking stops. I am going to assume this means the main seal on the flush valve is shot and I need to replace the whole flush valve and tank seals??? What do you think?

    peace out,
    daddylogan

  2. #17
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Feel where the seal sits to close off the water...it may have some crud on it or be rough. All it may take is to rub your finger around the seat to clean off any crud. If the seal isn't seated properly in the slot, it may get distorted. If the seat isn't smooth, you may need a new flush valve. Also, depending on its storage and age, the gasket may be a little hard...sitting with water pressure on it may straighten it out. The only other thing I can think of is if the seal where the seat attaches has degraded. To fix that, you need to take the tank off, remove the flush valve, and then replace the seal. You'd also want to replace the washers under the head of the bolts holding the tank to the bowl. Once you're done, it should be as good as new. That may or may not be great, but it should last a long time.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  3. #18
    DIY Junior Member daddylogan's Avatar
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    Yeah, I did. Ran my fingers all around and underneath...nothing. I knew this would not go perfect!!!! LOL...Looks like a full rebuild on the tank parts now. Live and learn I suppose. Thanks for all your help ;-)

    peace out,
    daddylogan

  4. #19
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    I would push it down into place on the new seal, as you say this stops the leaking, and let it sit overnight. See if the pressure doesn't make the seal start to work, as Jim suggests.

    I'm glad you like the new fill valve!! If you decide to replace the tower flush thingy, the Korky flush valve kit with flapper has great directions, and works well. I have used it on several toilets, and I'm not lying that it's often a pain in the neck to get the old flush valve off, but once you do, the new parts do go in nicely and easily. Come back if you do that, and we'll give you some tips on remounting the tank so it's stable and doesn't rock.
    Last edited by wjcandee; 03-17-2013 at 09:50 PM.

  5. #20
    DIY Junior Member daddylogan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjcandee View Post
    I would push it down into place on the new seal, as you say this stops the leaking, and let it sit overnight. See if the pressure doesn't make the seal start to work, as Jim suggests.

    I'm glad you like the new fill valve!! If you decide to replace the tower flush thingy, the Korky flush valve kit with flapper has great directions, and works well. I have used it on several toilets, and I'm not lying that it's often a pain in the neck to get the old flush valve off, but once you do, the new parts do go in nicely and easily. Come back if you do that, and we'll give you some tips on remounting the tank so it's stable and doesn't rock.

    Yes, I liked the ease of the install on the fill valve...thank you! However I did look at the Korky flush valves with flapper and none of them look like my setup. Mine looks like no flapper...just the straight up and down type...guess some call it the "Mansfield"? So I would assume I have to buy the same???

    peace out,
    daddylogan

  6. #21
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Before you replace the flush valve, one other thought is to look at this thread -- sound familiar? Then look at Redwood's suggestion at the end and see if that helps. http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ve-replacement

    Also, I would call Korky at 1-800-LAVELLE and see if the 4030PK Universal 2" Flush Valve kit (4030BP at Lowes) wouldn't fit just fine. I have installed it on several American Standard toilets that had a different setup than the Korky and it works great. It is, of course, always a bit of a pain to remove and reinstall the tank, so I would try really cleaning the area around your flush valve and make sure that you can't get it to work with the new seal that you bought. Interesting to see, isn't it, that the Mansfield tower thingy is "notorious" for having the seal disintegrate when you go to replace it?

  7. #22
    DIY Junior Member broesau's Avatar
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    Sounds like it might also be the ballcock creating a siphon. Sometimes if the fill hose is in the overflow tube too deep it can create a siphon and appear that the toilet is running. It also appears that you have the flush lever rigged up to the flush valve with a chain. Mansfield has a handle that is designed to go through the opening or keyhole on the top of the flush valve. If that chain has gotten under the seal it will run or if it has cracked the tower it will let water in and leak. Go get a new 1/2" compression shut off valve, a new braided supply line, Fluidmaster and Mansfield seal & Handle. That should solve everything.

  8. #23
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by broesau View Post
    Sounds like it might also be the ballcock creating a siphon. Sometimes if the fill hose is in the overflow tube too deep it can create a siphon and appear that the toilet is running. It also appears that you have the flush lever rigged up to the flush valve with a chain. Mansfield has a handle that is designed to go through the opening or keyhole on the top of the flush valve. If that chain has gotten under the seal it will run or if it has cracked the tower it will let water in and leak. Go get a new 1/2" compression shut off valve, a new braided supply line, Fluidmaster and Mansfield seal & Handle. That should solve everything.
    Yeah. No. He already replaced the fill valve with a 528 and he likes it. He presumably followed the instructions re the refill hose, but we can check. The problem predated the new fill valve, so probably not the issue. He described the difficulty that everyone experiences with Mansfields to the effect that the seal disintegrated. You are right that the tower may be cracked, although I'm guessing it's the seal. I think replacing that pos with a flapper-style flush valve will also solve his problem completely, if he's up to it.

    He did have a question that you could help him with vis a vis the new shutoff. HJ had some thoughts about how challenging it will be for him given that he will have to cut the old one off pretty close to the wall because of the way it is installed. Give that a read and let us know what you think.

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member broesau's Avatar
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    Looks like a standard 1/2" compression stop. Shouldn't need to cut the pipe, just take off the old valve, ferrel and nut. If you can't get the ferrel and nut off you might be able to reuse them with the new stop. This isn't ideal, but it can be done as a last resort. Depending on how much pipe there is after the ferrel you may be able to pop a shark bite angle stop on there. There are adapters for handle pullers to remove ferrels, but I wouldn't invest in one for just one stop, but you might want to buy one to replace stops in the future if all of them in the house are like this one.

  10. #25
    DIY Junior Member daddylogan's Avatar
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    As I promised, an update after complete resolution. First of all Redwood's suggestion was the correct one. I gave the new seal a good spin or two and bingo...I felt it adjust itself in the lip like it should be. I thought I had it seated correctly but the "spin" is the trick for sure. After that the toilet flushed, filled and shut off with no sound what-so-ever!!! Success

    Now, onto the new angle valve. After reading through what you all said about it being so close to the wall, I decided to call in a professional on this matter (had other work for him too, mainly a clogged kitchen line) and it is a very good thing I did. He said the exact same thing about not enough room so what he did was cut everything off and then welded on some copper pipe to extend it out from the wall. The rest of the installation was simple after that. Here is the pic with all the new fitting:



    Anyhow, once again a huge thank you to everyone who chimed in on this thread to help out a newbie!!! I wish all "HELP/DYI forums had this much support, and good support at that!!! I always feel a thread should have a conclusion so people can reference it so that is why I am doing the follow up. Oh, it is also a good ides to check the tank bolts once in a while...mine were loose and needed a good turn or two! ;-)

    (Look at that shiny new flange!!!!!)

    peace out,
    daddylogan

  11. #26
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Thanks for the update! I always like to know how people made out with our advice. I will also put on the front burner that trick from Redwood's post in the other thread, for the next time this issue comes up.

    Congratulations for persevering, and for striking a good balance between professional work and DIY. The new braided line, shiny escutcheon plate and new shutoff all look good, and I know you will enjoy that Korky fill valve. You should be back in business for a while!
    Last edited by wjcandee; 03-21-2013 at 12:29 AM.

  12. #27
    DIY Junior Member benlinus's Avatar
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    Take off the lid and turnoff the water if the water stops running right away then the float valve in the tank needs ajustment or replaced , if the water continues to drain into the bowl then the flapper in the bottom of the tank is dirty or worn out and needs to be replaced , also look to see if the chain (witch some do )isn't catching on something and holding the flap open

  13. #28
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by benlinus View Post
    Take off the lid and turnoff the water if the water stops running right away then the float valve in the tank needs ajustment or replaced , if the water continues to drain into the bowl then the flapper in the bottom of the tank is dirty or worn out and needs to be replaced , also look to see if the chain (witch some do )isn't catching on something and holding the flap open
    It's nice of you to be helpful, but if you read the thread, you would realize that he didn't have a flapper-type flush valve, and he replaced the float ball with a Korky 528.

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