Sharkbite Stop Valve for Toilet

[Kiko]

I'm thinking of replacing my old soldered-on toilet shut-off with a Sharkbite - available at HD.

Once I've cut out the old valve with my tubing cutter:

How much of a stub-out is needed for the Shark to slip over?

How should I prep the stub-out (remove any residual solder, etc.)? Emery cloth?

Do these things leak over time?

TIA

[johnjh2o1]

Why not use a compression stop? In my opinion they're far better than shark-bites.

John

[jadnashua]

The pipe must be totally clean, round, deburred so there are no rough edges, and long enough. The deburring tool can also be used as the depth gauge for you to ensure it is inserted all the way. On 1/2" copper, I measure very close to 1" using their deburring tool, give or take a very small amount.

[Gary Swart]

I second the compression stop.

[amateurplumber1]

Just curious, why do you prefer the compression stop over the sharkbite?

[johnjh2o1]

Compression fittings have been around for some time and have proven their reliability shark bites haven't


John

[hj]

You need a much longer stub of copper out of the wall for a Sharkbite.

[jadnashua]

Properly installed, a Sharkbite can rotate (it might be stiff, but it will). A compression stop won't. A compression fitting will seal (assuming you can get the ring on) if the pipe isn't quite round, a sharkbite may not.

[wptski]

Being a DIY, I don't use compression fittings very often but the last time I did, I had a terrible time trying to tighten them enough to not leak.

[asktom]

Put a couple drops of oil on the threads the compression nut tightens onto.

[Kiko]

I haven't started this yet, but the reason I wanted to go Sharkbite over compression is due to lack of room. There doesn't appear to be enough space to manipulate two wrenches (wrench and counter-wrench).