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Thread: Water Softener Questions

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  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member amateurplumber1's Avatar
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    Default Water Softener Questions

    Hello,

    I will be purchasing a Fleck 5600SXT 48,000 grain capacity water softener. However, before I order, I've got a few questions:

    1)What place do you guys think is the best place to order from? I've been recommended qualitywatertreatment.com, ohiopurewater.com, and qualitywaterforless.com. They're all within the same amount of money, and they all seem to be pretty good.

    2)I can use this for a bypass valve, there is no need for another one, correct? http://i.imgur.com/9vhiQnZ.jpg

    3)This drain is ok for the drain and overflow lines, right? http://i.imgur.com/CSXWX3b.jpg

    4)Since my valves are not threaded, and I donít know how to solder, I can just use sharkbite fittings, right?

    5)Is it very difficult to assemble and install the water softener?

    6)Iíd appreciate any tips you may have (what materials the lines should be made out of, precautions to take, stuff like that)!

    Thank you guys SO much!

  2. #2
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    PM sent.

    The byass, I would recommend buyint the valve mounted bypass. Gate valves are not considered the most reliable design. If you had a high quality 3 valve (Apollo, nibco, etc) ball valve bypass, then I would not be concerned. Shark bites will work, but you are still going to have to solder out of the gate valves to get it to either threaded or a piece of pipe.

    Name:  tru-gap-airgap-drain.jpg
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    The drain... anyone else want to comment on that? Not my preferred drain. Since an air gap is required. Not to sure about how well these work, someone posted what appeared to be a better design a while back.

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member amateurplumber1's Avatar
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    Thanks a ton for the info! Question, some guy on another forum gave me advice that appears to involve no soldering, and is definitely doable by me. How do you feel about this?

    I saw the photo you have of the piping in the basement. Mine looked very similar when I started. What I did was cut that all out, so I just had two cut copper pipes hanging there. Then I got two gatorbite ball valves like these:

    Shop GatorBITE 3/4" x 3/4" Removable Ball Valve at Lowes.com

    Stuck one on each pipe. Then you'll have threaded ends on the softener side and gatorbite ends on the wall side. You can just go to Lowes then and buy PEX tubing and any elbows to join it all together.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I like that idea. But with this little twist. Order the system with 3/4" MIP plumbing connectors, the 5600 and the 7000 have them available. And use the Falcon Flex by John guest fitting. Very simple and quick. Dont forget to consider code for your grounding. Name:  jg.jpg
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    DIY Senior Member amateurplumber1's Avatar
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    Yesssssssss thank you so much for vetting that idea! I can definitely do what you say. The MIP plumbing connectors...my options are 3/4" (or 1") noryl or stainless connectors with matching bypass valves. Would the MIP be the noryl, then?

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Correct, be sure they spec the system with the 18706-02 3/4" noryl MIP plumbing connector. It will make for a very simple installation.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member amateurplumber1's Avatar
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    Update: still haven't installed the system! There's resin and water in the tank, and it's been sitting there for a week or two (which I hope is ok, lol) since I thought i could easily install it. Our plumbing is awful. I can't even trace the lines because everything is so convoluted. And i'm finally going to have some time to pick up gravel, which is kind of far away and didn't come with the system. This has been a nightmare!

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    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    really deleted

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member amateurplumber1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    ummm, that was posted already. LOL Post #8
    Yeah I should have probably read the description better. I'll find the one I need to order but I wish it was available locally.

  10. #10
    DIY Senior Member amateurplumber1's Avatar
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    Can someone please help me understand this bypass valve we currently have installed, please?

    Since I am not going to solder, and am going to do this:

    I saw the photo you have of the piping in the basement. Mine looked very similar when I started. What I did was cut that all out, so I just had two cut copper pipes hanging there. Then I got two gatorbite ball valves like these:

    Shop GatorBITE 3/4" x 3/4" Removable Ball Valve at Lowes.com

    Stuck one on each pipe. Then you'll have threaded ends on the softener side and gatorbite ends on the wall side. You can just go to Lowes then and buy PEX tubing and any elbows to join it all together.
    The left side is water incoming, and the right side is water outgoing? I'm just trying to be 100% sure before I do anything. I know this sounds extremely stupid so, uh, thanks for bearing with me. :P

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    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    To see which side is incoming, close the center (bypass) valve, and then slowly open each of the other two valves, one at a time. One of them will have water under pressure -- that is the supply side. The other will probably show a brief spurt as water drains from the distribution lines, then just dribble.

    With no softener installed, the center valve should be open, the other two closed. With the softener installed, there are two states:

    Service state -- center valve is closed, other two are open.
    Bypass state -- center valve is open, other two are closed.

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    DIY Senior Member amateurplumber1's Avatar
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    Thank you mikey! How would this change if I did what I quoted above and just cut out the bypass, left the two pipes there, and used a bypass on the softener side?

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    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    It would be a lot easier to just leave everything in place, which would allow you to hook up the softener (with its own bypass), and completely isolate the softener and its bypass if necessary. Then just close the middle valve, leave the other two open, and use the softener's bypass alone until you have problems with it.

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    DIY Senior Member amateurplumber1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    It would be a lot easier to just leave everything in place, which would allow you to hook up the softener (with its own bypass), and completely isolate the softener and its bypass if necessary. Then just close the middle valve, leave the other two open, and use the softener's bypass alone until you have problems with it.
    My problem is that I have been told not to use gate valves because they restrict flow, and more importantly, I have no idea how to solder and really dont feel like buying the tools to do it, haha. Nice title btw. Love working with computers, not so much plumbing.

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    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amateurplumber1 View Post
    Hello,

    I will be purchasing a Fleck 5600SXT 48,000 grain capacity water softener. However, before I order, I've got a few questions:

    1)What place do you guys think is the best place to order from? I've been recommended qualitywatertreatment.com, ohiopurewater.com, and qualitywaterforless.com. They're all within the same amount of money, and they all seem to be pretty good.
    Any comments on these places?

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