Laundry & Bathroom DWV layout "please help"

**Tileman4** · 03-09-2013, 11:42 AM

Hi guys
i posted this before but was so unsure of correct terms and unable to see or relay the whole picture that when i tried to show others they had no idea what i was talking about , well ive obessed on this so long and been reading for hours & hours codes & proper setups that i feel i can see and show u guys what im dealing with & if you could give me any critiqe or even a " go read about........" i would be so greatful
here we go,
pic 1
i wanted to try and remove as much of the plumbing in this room after finding all the electrical so rusted & corroded from the near by salt water (house backs up 10 feet from the ocean, the garage is the front & where vapor membrane started for house )
that they were crumbling , i assumed the cast iron would be too, & if repipe of line was ever done (trenchless , epoxy lining, ect) i know at change of direction they would have to dig there, i wanted that room to be left alone and worked around "planning ahead"
also i read for hours just about fixture values and found myself over with added laundry sink & tub to shower conversion, so i wanted to tie into toilet so i could run 3" back to vertical stack @ laundry/bath , as i got farther back i got nervous about cutting into the toilet/change direction joint & worried it might be domino and end up causing a huge problem so i stoped about 8-12" from it( i know complete waste of time )
cleaned up old cast for abs connect and wraped it with pipe tape & foam for compression of sand & water
heres where it gets tricky.....
the original setup was a rolled wye up to tee for tub in footing, but was too small 1 1/2" & was too high, behind wye 2 sets of 22.5 to make extra long sweep up through footing for bath sink, right at concrete on back side in garage was i belive a cleanout that was later used as drain for new washer with vent from shower feeding it
tried to copy old but move shower lower ,fail
so after reading a lot about trap siphon ect from washer, I wanted to try and keep shower on separate branch.the drawing of washer & laundry sink is the correct one i switched from double fixture as i read alot about stack vs double outlet. wall will have extended stemwall and framed to 2x8 also havethese pipe plates to enforce areas drilled for plumbing
Roughed in waiste and vent, flood tested with garden hose no leaks.

Back filled, hooked up washer, fail.
Suds from washer rising up shower vent line, I am worried about water comming back up through shower, with low or no curb. Slight gurgiling too.
as it stands all pipe waste & vent @ 2"
long sweeps at all change direct, seperate vent with no vert to horizontal change till roof line( only 45 offsets) where they will tie in at the 1 1/2" stub to roof
i belive that the last section of 2" cast is closed up from age and wear & the newer line might be jetting water down so quickly that its bottle necking
Questions
1) Can I tie in shower trap arm into base of vertical stack, just above long sweep with san Tee vertical, then put combie on back or san tee between trap arm and stack for strickly vent vertical?
2) Would keeping everything on the same stack prevent back flow of suds? Due to high rate of discharge from washer, forcing everything down stream on same line or would suds come back through san tee waste line & up san tee vent line?
3) Do I need to open up to three inch for horizontal, thus completing my original goal of isolating bathroom group for future sewer line work? I will be putting acess panels, washer side at copper stub outs for plumber to repipe supply with out damage to slab and waterproofing, fyi toilet has own 2" vent
4) read about backflow device and trap primers but no sure if that is the right direction, also since its end of line do i need a loop vent behind last fixture?
Thank you so much for your help, patience and guildence. i am trying to not take short cuts and do things the right way & am willing to put in the work
Best Regards,
Terry B

**Tileman4** · 03-09-2013, 12:48 PM

the first drawing( page #2 ) is my changes to be made
the hard part about this is with all the water from under ground keeping that hotmop vapor bar intact is very hard as it is not bonded to underside of slab, the layer of sand between slab i belive is a buffer and as you dig under it the brittle mop falls down cracking due to lack of support
if it is advised i have no prob getting at that toilet bend just past where i stoped , i have a very good idea as to how and tie back into it but i need to go back to work and get a jump on this again after reading plumbing codes and fourms till 3-4 in the moring every night its pushing me back on my schedule
thank you again for any help
terry

**Tileman4** · 03-09-2013, 12:52 PM

inside of old horizontal line closest to toilet intersection

**Tileman4** · 03-11-2013, 11:09 AM

ok last time maybe im just losing track as i type and not being straight forward and clear
the wall at laundry/bath was the start stop of a hotmop vapor bar , the ground water (saltwater as the home backs up to a breakwall and tide comes up tomaybe 6-8 feet below) was evaporating on garage side but retaining under home due to hotmop
the old electric underground was so so at garage (larger main line was intact all smaller circit runs were crumbling) but as the main went farther back under to service pannel i could break off sections one hand and it just crumbled ( already had break int it prior i didnt hit it & fyi that was already re route under eve on utillity run side of house even freed up 50amps off far servive that was back feeding subs)
so i just went w my gut and figured cast must be pretty shot as well , i dug all the way to doorway of bath/office to find combi just past under door & thought (second guessed myself ) if this pipe is worse than the starting pipe like the elect and i cut it & it breaks or crumbles is this going to turn into a nightmare (a bigger one*) i called a plumber i met he came and looked said the 2" before combi was fine cut it there
so i did with sawzall, cut faster than anyother pipe or cast ive cut (only cut 10 or so time before this) so right before combi on 4" toilet line i left about 6-8" a safe zone so i could cut more if it crushed
cleaned up primemiter, de-bur old kinda had alot inside so didnt put too much pressure but took out metal shavings, banded no hub, abs 2"
good to go no prob
hose test & back fill install washer run it suds up shower vent, worried i try a few diff optionswhat i ended up with was the washer on seperate line(same vent) all to the old cast with a wye tying back in shower and 2 sinks
test with hose on in shower and cycle washer ........ as wash dumps shower cant drain over flows slightly but once washer drains sucks it down not enough to flood pan over but not great either
i tried puting continueos vent up the other side of stack as well as the one off trap arm for shower to relive but sitll cause its lowest fixture backs up
shower is tied in at base of stack under ground 12-18" below slab has about 4-6 inch of pipe then long sweep horizontal out
i know that prior to starting this drains were snaked and it took plumber along time and he was all over house wondering if i have blockage near my end
my goal was to move all waste line out of bath so if ... when repipe was done bath would not be damaged , also wanted to up it to 3" instead of 2
i didnt and second guessed myself now regreting not trusting my instict
all of the above fitting are shown ,long sweeps at vertical to horizontal, san t at horizontal to vertical with vent above and draining below, nothing is wet vented , the shower has vent off trap arm and is not tied in like drawing or pic but at base of stack in line & has maybe 3' before it hits stack and i have a combi for shower venting with direction flowing to stack on trap arm located 5 " off stack that has nothing else draining into it , all vents tie in alot higher than the 6" flood level and have no 90 or horizontal till the roof only 45 to avoid lumber
everyting is 2" , the double wye shown on laundry is not used , i went with them stacked as shown on drawing, standpipe 15" off floor
i dont know how much more i can explain but it seems cause i maybe dont pronounceiate properly or my grammer is not as crisp that my name has changed from terry to tyrone the picture above shows 2 things my hand/ old pipe...............
or because i have no cad drawings and such that no one wants to help , no chiming in from anyone , terry was nice enough to let me know that my washer could be offset like it is but other than him zip
as a do it your self form i would think i might get a little more , not that im owed anything or deserving im asking
house was built in 1946 its old things need to get fixed im not trying to do repipe but id like my $30,000 (maybe more) dollar bathroom to be away from danger for later repipe
does any one have any thing , i promise i wont "holla"...........
fyi the cast above looks worse on outsdie i belive from saltwater & i know that elect line are conductive along with salt water and they were not for water so they were worse but these were no gems either the cast broke in several places when thrown off truck

**cacher_chick** · 03-11-2013, 12:05 PM

I think the problem you are seeing is that not many people in the trades have the time or the patience to read and try to sort out the massive posting that you have made here. Too much information along with poor quality pictures and drawings. It's not very feasible to teach anyone how to do a major plumbing project over the internet. A single well drawn isometric plumbing drawing would be much more likely to receive feedback on.

**Gary Swart** · 03-11-2013, 01:33 PM

I honestly think you are in way, way over your head. I've always been an avid DIY, but there are many things that are too complex and technical for a DIY. There comes a time when the wise DIY pays for the professional. I think you have reached that point.