changing my pressure switch on my well/trol tank

Hi I was wondering if you could give some info on changing my pressure switch. It is sticking and my pressure to my home goes high to no water at all. If I tap it it kicks on. Everything seems ok except the switch. When I took off the cover it looks like the points are burnt or just really corroded. My pressure switch is 30-50. I have a new one and I'm going to replace it. So here's my question. When I turn off the breaker and shut off the valve that the water flows through on my tank, there is no where to drain some water out. I know all the wiring and how to take everything apart to replace it, but I'm afraid once i remove the old switch water is going to go everywhere. Do I just let it drain from a faucet? But it still makes me think there will be water in the tank. Please help if you can.

Surely there must be a drain at the tank Tee and possibly a shutoff between the tank and the house? You need to drain it at a lower point than where the pressure switch is. Shutting off the house above will keep all the house plumbing from draining down.

There is no drain plug on the tank anywhere. and where the shut off valve is, next to the pressure switch, i see most people have a place where the hose can attach to it. Mine is not like that.

Then turn off the breakers to the pump and the water heater and open the lowest faucet there is. After the tank has drained as much as possible, close the faucet and close the valve at the tank. Be prepared for some water to come out when removing the pressure switch. Inspect the small nipple that the switch is screwed onto as they often plug up with minerals.

ok Thanks so much!! after I get the new pressure switch on it, what would be my next step to fill the water back up? Turn on breaker & open valve???

oh and also you're saying to shut off all the valves upstairs to all the other faucets, so that water stays in the system Correct?

suzyQ said:

oh and also you're saying to shut off all the valves upstairs to all the other faucets, so that water stays in the system Correct?

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Turn OFF and Verify that power is OFF to the pump and Water heater.

Open only 1 faucet (cold only) closest to your tank location. A outside faucet that does not go thru your water softener would be best to use.

After the pressure drops you can remove the old switch. Water may dribble for a bit because the tank has water above the switch level. That is fine and will let you see the line is not plugged with debris.

Replace the switch and leave that same faucet open, turn the pump power back on. (Teflon type tape on the switch nipple is good to use.)

You will have air and maybe/probably iron from the tank coming out of the faucet. Run water at same faucet until it is clear.

Turn power back on to water heater after your tank is filled.


If you are lucky most of your plumbing will still be holding water, the iron and air will have all passed to that 1 opened faucet. A faucet at the tank can help avoid putting Iron that has settled in the tank into your home plumbing. Makes flushing the tank easy also. It is one more thing to protect from freezing in your area, that maybe why you don't have one.


Good Luck.

the only breaker i see on my box is well pump. when u say water heater there is no breaker switch to that. there is a valve just above my water heater?

heres my electrical panel. I dont see anything to my water heater!!!

Water heater is gas, not electric so set it on vacation mode.

ok thank you!!!!

Got it switched and everything is perfect!!! Thank you all for the help!!

suzyQ said:

Got it switched and everything is perfect!!! Thank you all for the help!!

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Good deal. Sorry for the water heater confusion. It is just a safety precaution, I did not know if you have gas or electric. Killing power to a Gas Heater with electronic ignition works also.


Nice work.


Terry Love's site is great. Thanks Terry.