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Thread: New Home - Looking for Water Treatment System Input

  1. #16
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Resin (typically round) does not channel in a downflow application.

    In very low flow situations, water may not evenly disperse across the resin bed thus allowing for the water flow to follow the rules of physics, (path of least resistance).
    So now you're saying channeling is not the cause of the too low flow problem, although too low flow MAY NOT evenly disperse across the resin bed or, it may not follow the path of least resistance.

    Then what is the problem with low flow? May not, usually doesn't... are you ever going to nail this down by telling us what will usually or normally or actually HAPPEN with low flow? That would be for a down flow residential water softener.

    And as far as I know, we are talking down flow service and brining right?

    Now can you also stick with the regular/common industry standard ion exchange water softening resins instead of linking to a site that is talking about a one of a kind: "comprised of a hybrid resin bead" with no mention of residential water softening?
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
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    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  2. #17
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    LOL, no matter what I say, you will disagree.

  3. #18
    In the Trades Tom Sawyer's Avatar
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    What he said LOL
    [B]No, plumbing ain't rocket science. Unlike rocket science, plumbing requires a license[B]

  4. #19
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    LOL, no matter what I say, you will disagree.
    Yes I will unless you say in this thread what you said in another thread about the same disagreement. Here is a copy:
    Originally Posted by ditttohead

    And yes, Nelsen doesnt bother with residential flow recommendations, .... Their entire commercial line has recommended minimum and maximum flows.

    A 4 cu. ft. system should work fine but will be outside of the engineering specifications for many residential applications.

    Damn, you finally got it right! Nelsen does not have minimum flow rates for residential but do for their commercial softeners.

    And a 4.0 cuft in residential works fine.

    That is from the thread linked below and was posted a short time ago.
    http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...uestions/page2
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  5. #20
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    lol, see post 17

  6. #21
    DIY Junior Member Gilley7997's Avatar
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    Well folks, I have the parts here and ready for assembly, I have a call into to the sales person, but I wanted to check with you. I have the Backwashing Filter and the Water Softener both with 7000 valves and I unpacked all the parts to verify everything.

    I found that the water softener valve came with a top basket, but the box that held all the Filter head parts did not have a Top Basket. Is this normal? I'm pretty sure I understand what the top basket is supposed to do, so I was just curious if it would be different between the two applications.

    Thanks for the help! Tentative plan to get the install going this weekend if everything is here!

  7. #22
    DIY Senior Member lifespeed's Avatar
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    You want a top basket on both.
    Lifespeed

  8. #23
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Top screens are not necessary but I recommend them for most applications. I always use them on residential softeners, we almost never use them on commercial systems. Many companies do not recommend them for filter systems. I can see both points, and neither way is wrong.

    Hope this is helpful
    Last edited by ditttohead; 03-22-2013 at 12:41 PM.

  9. #24
    DIY Junior Member Gilley7997's Avatar
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    Thank you both for the reply. Ditto, I have been going over your suggestions for the softener settings and I think I understand them. The DLFC on your picture where would I actually find that information, I'm assuming this is something I'm supposed to verify. If I have an option which I apparently do as I have both parts, should I use the .125 or the .25 BLFC part as I have both in the box. What is the injector #0Red and the Manual Brine Kit. Are these something I am supposed to be considering.

    The second major question I have is what should the settings for the Filter head be. I haven't seen any suggestions on that and what should I be considering and what options are available when the Head is set to this and how the function differently, as the Capacity is still used according to the manual I'm reading so trying to understand that as well.

    Thanks again!

    That and I'm not sure if the manual I'm looking at is old or the picture you are providing ditto, but some of the setting names don't seem to match. Like dF2B, the manual shows St2B.
    Last edited by Gilley7997; 03-22-2013 at 01:45 PM.

  10. #25
    DIY Junior Member Gilley7997's Avatar
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    Okay I just got home, and I have these BLFC 2 parts in front of me...If I take the one off the valve and look inside it, it has the numbers 25, 613 and F. The one that was floating around in the box has the numbers 8, 123 and F? Trying to reconcile these number against the parts diagram isn't working, They both appear to be the BLFC but not exactly sure which one is which. Thanks!

  11. #26
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    25 is .25,

    123 is .125

    The programming has changed, the ST2b df2b are the same. Standard double backwash, and downflow double backwash. Just a different way of saying the same thing. The 7000 is not available in upflow, so the term downflow was removed to lessen the confusion of people asking where the upflow programming setting is (I assume).

    The backwash valve should be set for regeneration about every 7-30 days, not critical at all. If you have sediment in the water, more frequent backwashing should be done. low water use and low sediment, less frequent backwashing is needed.

    10 minutes backwash and 10 minutes rinse (default settings) is fine.

    Hope this helps.

  12. #27
    DIY Junior Member Gilley7997's Avatar
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    Okay one more question. I pulled the DLFC on the softener head and noted the number 350 138 F on that and on the Filter Head 700 79 F. What do these mean? I'm writing up the settings I will use for each and will post those shortly. Thanks to everyone for all your help!
    Last edited by Gilley7997; 03-22-2013 at 05:36 PM.

  13. #28
    DIY Junior Member Gilley7997's Avatar
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    Default Planned Settings for Both Systems:

    Let me know if anyone sees anything that can be adjusted. This is based on Dittoheads suggestions, I just decreased the brine fill value a bit, Wanted to double check with everyone and remind how this system is currently oversized for our needs so please let me know if you see any places for improved efficiencies.


    Current House Needs:
    2 People* 70gpp * 20 gpg = 2800 grains per day
    SFR Max 12GPM

    64,000 2 cu ft. Grain System Fleck 7000 Water Softener Head (DLFC 3.5GPM, BLFC .25GPM, Red Injector)
    • DF: Gal
    • VT: df2B
    • CT: Fd
    • C: 48.0
    • H:20
    • RS: SF
    • SF:15
    • DO: 15
    • RT: 1:00
    • B1: 10
    • BD: 60
    • B2: 5
    • RR: 5
    • BF: 20
    • FM: t1.2


    2.0 Cu FT Carbon Filter Fleck 7000 Valve
    • DF: Gal
    • VT: Fltr
    • CT: tc
    • DO: 15
    • RT: 3:00
    • B1:10
    • B2:0
    • RR:10

  14. #29
    DIY Junior Member Gilley7997's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gilley7997 View Post
    Okay one more question. I pulled the DLFC on the softener head and noted the number 350 138 F on that and on the Filter Head 700 79 F. What do these mean? I'm writing up the settings I will use for each and will post those shortly. Thanks to everyone for all your help!
    Any thoughts on the above part numbers? The reason I ask about this, is the install is complete, along with running 7 electrical outlets in the unfinished area of the basement. When programming the units, I cycled them through all the cycles just to make sure nothing was leaking. While Backwashing the Carbon Filter, I noticed that the drain line water was a little black, then I advanced the cycle to the service again, and pulled the DLFC and there was carbon media in there. This makes me nervous.

    Anything I should check, and no, I do not have a top basket in the filter, as I noticed that some people including the company purchased from said that it isn't required on the filter.

    Any thoughts on my chosen settings for efficiency purposes with just the two of us in the house?

  15. #30
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Running out the door but I thought I would answer the easy part. the 350 is a 3.5 GPM button. The 700 is a 7.0 GPM button.

    BF set to 22. I would usually extend the DO on the softener to 30, but it is not critical.

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