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Thread: Softener Connections

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member bishoptf's Avatar
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    Default Softener Connections

    Just curious I need to do some re-work since I have a sears softener in place and was curious as to what is the most common connection that most folks use. I have 3/4" copper coming in to the house and right now I have flexible threaded copper connection going to my bypass. Th unit I am looking at will be the clack ws1-cs version and they have sweat connections and threaded, I can do either just wondered what the pro's /cons are for each way.

    I also noted on falcon stainless hoses that they have one hose that has the clack quick connect built into the hose and threaded on the other end, interesting...http://www.falconstainless.com/CLACK.html

    Thanks in advance...

  2. #2
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    If you are using a 3/4" connection, then a standard 3/4" water heater flex should work.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    When I do installs, I always do them in hard copper (code and warranty permitting). I would not recommend this for the Autotrol valves or softeners that do not have a decent amount of flexibility designed into their valves. Softener tanks get taller and shorter as the pressure raises and lowers and this can cause stress on the valve and plumbing. The Fleck and Clack residential valves easily accomodate this by design.

    Stianless flexible connectors are an excellent choice for the vast majority of installations. Commercial installations require flexible connections to prevent tank damage. Residential systems also benefit from this added flexibility.

    Stainless Flexible connectors are available in John Guest style x threaded to make the installations even easier. The Clack does not have a 3/4" MIP connector available, most customers get around this by ordering the V3007-01 glue connector and cutting a schedule 80 pvc nipple in half and gluing it into the fitting to make their own 3/4" MIP adapter. Falcon also make special flexible stainless hoses just for the WS1 that fit directly into the bypass.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member bishoptf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    When I do installs, I always do them in hard copper (code and warranty permitting). I would not recommend this for the Autotrol valves or softeners that do not have a decent amount of flexibility designed into their valves. Softener tanks get taller and shorter as the pressure raises and lowers and this can cause stress on the valve and plumbing. The Fleck and Clack residential valves easily accomodate this by design.

    Stianless flexible connectors are an excellent choice for the vast majority of installations. Commercial installations require flexible connections to prevent tank damage. Residential systems also benefit from this added flexibility.

    Stainless Flexible connectors are available in John Guest style x threaded to make the installations even easier. The Clack does not have a 3/4" MIP connector available, most customers get around this by ordering the V3007-01 glue connector and cutting a schedule 80 pvc nipple in half and gluing it into the fitting to make their own 3/4" MIP adapter. Falcon also make special flexible stainless hoses just for the WS1 that fit directly into the bypass.
    Thanks dittohead I found the falcons this afternoon, a little more expensive but they look like nice hoses and I ordered 2 of them for the clack, sounded like a small shop and they were very nice and were easy to deal with. Folks like that I enjoy doing business with...

  5. #5
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Could you just go to a pro shop and have them make up PEX lines in the appropriate size (s) to interconnect everything?

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