Condensation or very high relative humidity air is what causes the rust on the fire side of the heat exchangers. Assuming you keep the boiler in a basement, this becomes an issue is when the summertime outdoor dew points are high- near to or even higher than the temperature in the basement or if the basement isn't well protected from ground-water moisture wicking through the soil/concrete, keeping the relative humidity in the basement high. If you run the circulators full time the boiler's heat exchangers will never drop below the temperature of the room air upstairs, which would always be above the dew point of the outdoor air. Alternatively (or in addition), running a dehumifier in the basement keeping it at or below 55% relative humidity would keep the oxidizing conditions at the heat exchangers well controlled. The expense of either/both will be in the 10s of dollars rather than hundreds over the course of a summer.
Through-bolts sufficiently stretched to cause leakage & rust at the seams between plates is a separate issue. They can sometimes be re-torqued, but most boilers younger than 30 years would have been designed & built to not have that problem. Many newer oil boilers are designed for cold-starting, and PRESUME that they will be allowed to cool fully for multiple, possibly extended periods. What does the manufacturer say? (Email them, if it's not in the manual.)
When the boiler is eventually completely shot, (or maybe even before), it's worth considering not replacing it, and heating with heat pumps instead. No matter what happens with pipelining the Alberta oil sands or the shale-oil frack to market, the notion that oil production will get ahead of (or even keep pace with) world demand for oil as transportation fuel over the lifespan of a new oil boiler is a dubious proposition at best. Heating oil prices will likely see dips, but will also see spikes, with increasing price volatility over time. Now that there are multiple vendors of cheap high-efficiency ductless air source heat pumps capable of operating at the extremes of Nova Scotia's wintertime temps, it's well worth looking into those as the backup/auxilliary heating for your wood burner. See this recently published
policy piece from RMI.
The Fujitsu
AOU-xxRLS2-H series is fully rated down to -26C, and keeps on chugging even at lower temps than that. The Mitsubishi MSZ-FExxNA "
Hyper Heating" series has an output rating at -25C, but automatically shuts down to self-protect before it hits -30C (but automatically re-starts when temps rise.) Either would cost a bit less than half what it costs to operate than an oil boiler over the course of a season at standard electricity rates. If you have an off-peak discount option you can do even better, if you turn the setpoints down during peak hours. (Peak heating loads typically occur during off-peak power periods.) The all time record low temp for say,
Glasgow NS is about -26C, it's a rare, but possible condition. Most winters bottom out at around -20C or warmer, a temp at which several other vendors & series will work, for a modest savings in up front cost. Most 1.5-2 ton units would cost about $4.5-5KUSD (installed) in my neighborhood, but it's not clear if that would be the case in NS, where the air-conditioning market smaller, and contractors handling heat pumps probably fewer. (This is in the range of a DIY project for the technically-minded/gifted though.)