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Thread: Tiny sink, tiny bathroom. 2" cast iron right there. Any reason not to use rubber T?

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    Default Tiny sink, tiny bathroom. 2" cast iron right there. Any reason not to use rubber T?

    I have a very small powder room that I want to put an even smaller sink into. There is a 2.5" outside diameter cast iron pipe right there running floor to cieling.
    My first thought was to cut and put in a pvc drain T using no hubs. But that is 1 foot from the toilet at eye level. It would be unsightly and big.

    Is there any reason I cannot use a rubber T like the one pictured below. I know it will also be ugly, but it will be smaller and I could probably get away with painting it white like the pipes.
    I also put a little sketch of the corner.

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    Here is a sketch.
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    Last edited by CanOfWorms; 02-25-2013 at 07:12 AM.

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    Update on this one. The line going down the wall is 2.5" outside diameter.

    I looked up these fernco quick tees. Here is a link to the chart describing: http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexi...-ells#tabs-1-3

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    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    Do you know if that cast iron pipe is a waste pipe? If it is a vent coming from the lower floors, you cannot put waste into it

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimbo View Post
    Do you know if that cast iron pipe is a waste pipe? If it is a vent coming from the lower floors, you cannot put waste into it
    Its not a vent pipe. It is on the bottom floor. I emailed Fernco they said the QT-200 will fit.

    Any reason not to use the rubber T?

    No plumbing code allows the rubber fittings.
    Added by Terry Love 3/3/2013
    Last edited by Terry; 03-03-2013 at 11:31 AM.

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    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    It won't support the cast iron above it.

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    It looks like the pipe runs against the wall about as far away as the elbows protrude. It then does a 90 degree turn right above the sheet rock. The wall is a solid concrete wall.
    I suppose a few U braces screwed into the wall would support it as long as they were very snug. I should also shim behind the pipe so it does not pinch in where I put the rubber T.
    What do you think?

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    Well code schmode within reason. Sorry if I pissed anyone off. Did you use any Idian toilets? AKA a hole in the floor.
    It's pretty clear from a recent investigation that the line right there, the blue line in the sketch is a dry vent line, not a waste line. If I tap into the washer drain line 50" to the left would that be vented?

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    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    IF that is indeed a dry vent, then it would be vented if you tie into it at least 42" above floor. What we can't really say for sure from this info is that it is indeed a dry vent, and that that dry vent has enough fixture unit capacity left to handle another lav.

    You should probably consult with a plumber on this. See if you can find one who will take $100-150 of your money to take a look, and tell you exactly how to do it. It's worth the cost to ensure you're working safely. He'll be better able to advise you, as this is a bit too complicated for us to tell over a forum.
    -mike-

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    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    Well, the second floor sink wasn't draining. When I tied snaking it the snake went up instead of down. I thought the sink was connected to that blue line in sketch. There is a rubber boot prrior to where it.goes up to second.floor. but when I opened it up it was bone dry and there was no residue or buildup in the old metal pipe at all. I ended up using that hard core sulphuric acid drain cleaner on the sink.
    Last edited by CanOfWorms; 03-03-2013 at 02:30 PM.

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    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    You seem to want to do the job correctly, given that you are still posting, but, without some qualified person there in the flesh it probably just isn't going to happen. I'm not sure if you are going to find a plumber willing to explain how to do the job, most want to do the job and could probably do it in less time than they could explain it clearly. You might be able to work with a plumber as far as the demo part goes. I'm hoping you will get a qualified person to do the drains for you. If not, I hope we at least talked you out of the rubber tee.

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member CanOfWorms's Avatar
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    You have talked me out of the rubber Tee and talked me out of just piping into any old pipe. I'm not as thick as you might think.
    I really do appreciate all your help and advice.
    I am cash poor and time poor. This project isnt the most important at the moment.
    I can't really afford to get a plumber in just to look. I will likely run into one in my travels that will give me a little free advice. Things like that happen to me.
    I actually found some piece of HVAC dignostic equipment in a case on the side of the road about 2 months back. I looked it up and it's about $250 new. I might post an add on craigslist to trade the equipment for service.

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    DIY Senior Member asktom's Avatar
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    If this is a back burner project and you now have a better picture of what is involved, that is a good thing. You can keep your ears open for the right opportunity to get help and have some idea of what is involved. Happy Plumbing.

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