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Thread: Low end Totos

  1. #1
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    Default Low end Totos

    I did a search, and couldn't find any information about this.

    I've been fighting with my own Drake II a bit with streaking issues, but that's another post. I'm still overall happy with Toto's build quality, flush power, etc.

    I manage a bunch of rental property and am in the process of buying the first of my own investment properties. I've read on here the recommendation of installing a Drake I or Eco Drake I w/o sanagloss in these rentals. That all makes sense.

    However, I was curious if anyone knows anything about these 2 lower cost models: The Rowan and the Carusoe?, so seems like a really good price for a rental property. Are these as good as the Drake? Why do I not hear about these models really ever?

    Model numbers, btw:
    Rowan: CST406MF
    Carusoe: CST716

    Thanks,
    Mike
    Last edited by Terry; 02-17-2013 at 10:59 PM.

  2. #2
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    Default

    On a related note, can someone post a full list of what all the letters tagged onto model numbers for Totos mean? I know "G" is sanagloss, for example, "C" double cyclone... is there a full list?

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    The abbreviations are usually set out on the parts lists.

    S=GMax 1.6gpf;
    E=Eco 1.28 (except on Maris);
    B=Bolt Down Lid;
    R=right hand trip lever;
    D=insulated tank;
    F=Universal Height;
    U=1G Ultra Efficient 1gpf;
    C=Double-Cyclone Flush;
    G=Sanagloss;
    M=Dual Flush
    L=ADA Height

    The Drake isn't that much more on the street price than what you're talking about on the Carusoe. I would just get the original Drake.

    Edit: On the Maris parts sheet, someone has decided to call the "CE" as meaning "dual max cyclone". That's a logical mistake. The thing has 1.28 as its top number, so I guess it makes sense to add the E, but to try to rebrand "CE" as meaning something together, it makes everything else illogical. Best just to have that E denote 1.28, which, taken with the M, means that the top number is 1.28. Semantics, really. But I would ignore that notation on the parts list in favor of the explanations above.
    Last edited by wjcandee; 02-18-2013 at 01:00 PM.

  4. #4
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    We don't talk about the Carusoe much here, because it's the wash down bowl with a small trapway and tight bends.
    They tend to splash when flushed.
    I can't think of a reason to recommend one.

    The Rowan looks to have a similar bowl. I have the same thoughts about it.

  5. #5
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    Default

    Thanks for the abbreviation list, helps me navigate the options a little easier

    Your thoughts on those models are enough for me, just thought I'd ask. The drake seems to be a good buy for ease of mind, but had to check if those other lower cost models had any particular merit for apartment use...

    Did I break a rule mentioning a supplier on here? If so, I apologize, didn't mean to step on any toes.

    Thanks again for the input!

  6. #6
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Did I break a rule mentioning a supplier on here? If so, I apologize, didn't mean to step on any toes.
    More like a direct competitor.
    I notice they don't advertise for me either.

  7. #7
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry View Post
    More like a direct competitor.
    I notice they don't advertise for me either.
    Haha, fair enough. Won't do that again

  8. #8
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    I would suggest the Drake for a couple of reasons. First, it is reasonably priced. Just as important however, is the fact that the Drake just doesn't clog unless something nonflushable gets lodged in the trap way. As a landlord, the last thing you want is a phone call from the renter at midnight that their toilet has clogged. The Drake is about as forgiving as a toilet can be about what is flushed.

  9. #9
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    Yeah, makes sense. I don't want a crappy toilet, just didn't know anything about these 2 low priced Totos. Thought maybe they were just less popular of a style, or an older model that has been replaced so the price was lower, or something like that. If they're actually not the same quality, then I'd rather spend the money for the better one. Seems the Drake I EL where possible (I can't stand round bowls), non-sanagloss, is the way to go.

    In some cases landlord (me or my client) pays water, in others tenants do, but far more often than not in these buildings landlord pays water. What would your thoughts be on the 1.6 vs the Eco 1.28 for this application?

  10. #10
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    From reading reports of people (some have both), they see little to no difference in their performance. Word has it that to gain that extra, they tweaked the refill, flapper, and bowl/tank fill balance to eliminate any wasted water. If you can get a rebate from the utility, it's probably worth the difference.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    If you don't need the ADA height, I would just go with what I have: CST744E or CST744S, depending upon whether you want the 1.28gpf (E) or the 1.6gpf(S). As Jim says, if there's a rebate on the E then that's probably worth it. If not, then either the E or S would be fine.

  12. #12
    In the Trades mtcummins's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks for the input.

    I don't need ADA, and as far as I know, we have no rebates available, so that won't likely be a factor.

    Are you saying you have both models (eco and standard?) If so, how do you feel they compare to each other? I'd pay a little more for lower water consumption, but don't want to have more problems with streaking, etc... keep tenants happy and all that...

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