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How to increase water pressure/flow in showerheads
I have two brand new Grohe Movario shower heads in my shower. One is a handheld, the other is on a fixed shower arm. I'm really unhappy with the water pressure in both. Can any kind of adjustment be made to these shower heads to increase or unrestrict the pressure or water flow? These pricey components don't work as well as my old cheapo Waterpik showerhead. Thanks!
For the most part, it's the federal requirements that restrict the max flow from a showerhead along with vanity faucets and low-flow toilets. Some of it is design, some is the available water pressure, and some of it could be the type of pipe used (cpvc and pex can't flow as much as copper, for example). Do you know what your water pressure actually is? Do you run both of them at the same time? Is either one or the other okay, but not when it's two together?
Some of the designs have an easily removed flow restrictor, on some, if you're willing, you could drill out the inlet opening. But, for the most part, you may need to live with it. Fair warning, removing the restrictor will drain your WH quite fast!
If your incoming water pressure is unusually low, and the supply is not restricted (just low utility pressure), you could add on a booster pump for the house...sort of like a small well system, but it's self-contained. This Olde House has one they did in their archives you could watch online to see what I'm talking about. Pretty simple to add. While many people live with incoming water pressure in the 20-40# range, 60# or so is nicer for things like showering.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer
Thanks for your reply. There are a number of factors at work here. Last week we had the whole house repiped, changing from copper to CPVC. I wasn't aware that CPVC doesn't flow as much as copper. This week we had the new showerheads installed and now the difference in pressure is very noticeable. We have our own well and the pressure cycles between 40 and 60 PSI. I don't know whether it matters, but we also have a geothermal heat pump.
I'm aware of the federal requirements with regard to water usage; still, I'd opt for modification of the flow restrictor if it would help. By the way, what is WH?
Ask your plumber/heating contractor if it is viable to turn up the pressure. I located and removed the flow restriction in my new shower. I ruined a hand shower once trying to drill out the flow restriction. It was integrated into a swivel and drilling it out weakened it.Originally Posted by CindyJ
Many modern shower valves have built-in flow limits to provide pressure balancing so there may be minimal gains to be had in removing restrictions downstream.
Also consider installing a CycleStopValve. You may find that the pressure variation is annoying.
http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html
My plumber just installed a Kohler K-304-K-NA Rite-Temp Pressure Balancing Valve. The back wall is still open so there's access to it if we need to get to it. Is there an adjustment that can be made to the pressure balancing valve that would improve the water pressure?
The specs for that model say it has a 5.0 GPM flow rate. Most modern shower heads are 2.5 GPM. You could capture the flow into a bucket and calculate it, then remove the head and repeat the test. That will give you some indication of how much you might gain by defeating any flow restriction in the head. It is unlikely that you can change the flow characteristics in the valve.
When I installed my shower, I tapped into the 3/4" copper lines going to and from the HWT. I also capped the shower side of the rough-in as it had a smaller port and used the tub filler side instead to supply the shower. I found and removed the flow restriction in the shower head. I am still limited by the flow limits of the pressure balance valve.
Every change simply shifts the limit to somewhere else in the system. It eventually comes down to diminishing returns or expensive mitigations. I would consider raising the entire system pressure and add a CSV for constant pressure. In my case, the micronizer for my iron filter is the limiting factor preventing that. Changing that would be a major cost.
I would rather see a static pressure of around 75psi and no higher than 80psi.
With the pressure switch adjusted to 60/80 and a CSV properly dialed in, the OP could see just that.
When you say "static pressure," does that mean a consistent water pressure as opposed to water pressure that fluctuates when the pump turns on and off?
Static pressure is simply the pressure that exists in the absence of flow. Resistance in the lines, valves, aerators, showerheads, etc., will all conspire to reduce the pressure under varying flow conditions.
And I forgot to mention -- only one showerhead can run at a time.
Often the new plumbing lines in a renovation or build are not flushed prior to hooking up the shower plumbing fixtures. This can lead to blockages and lower water pressure.
I would first check the screens on the handheld hose for debris. You might find that there are three screens. I've seen plumbers remove a couple of these for added pressure. You need to be careful removing the restrictors in your plumbing items since you can give your drain more water than it can handle. I'd say 1 in 2 clients calls the plumber back to remove the restrictors.
Many of my clients grew up with no restrictors and the new 2.5 Gallon per minute rule is not making grade.
JW
I'm a bathroom builder, a Houzz Contributor, a blogger, a linear drain salesman and "Coach" to about 24 North Shore Girls Soccer players. I live for snow days and love the work we do. My newest love is LED lighting and we are pushing the boundaries of what's possible in a high end shower! Proud member of the NKBA & TTMAC. Voting member ASTM
It will not matter, because all of the water used when flushing comes from the toilet's tank.
40-60 does a fine job with the right shower head. I would speculate that the majority of homes in the U.S. have less than 60 psi.
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