Toto drake install question

**akmacs** · 02-08-2013, 06:42 PM

Hi, I am trying to install my first toilet. It is a toto drake 1.6 gal round. My closet flange is a sioux metal/abs type and sits on top of a tile floor (it is tight to the floor and secured with 6 screws). When I tested it for level it had a very slight front to back rock which was too small to shim with the composite shims (the exact type as shown the the toto drake tutorial) so I figured I would be able to take care of something that minor with caulking or maybe it would vanish when tightened down. When I set the toilet base I squished it down on the wax ring (oatey reinforced wax bowl ring kit no seep #3) but after squishing and twisting lightly as much as I could it still had enough front to back rocking to use the shims now. I am fine with that but wondered if I did something wrong and if I should pull it up and start over with another wax ring?

The underside of the flange is open to my garage for now so I can test it to see if it leaks without much issue. Also is it normal for the wax to spread all the way into the flange bolt area?

Am I ok to keep going?

Thank you!

**jadnashua** · 02-08-2013, 07:20 PM

Yes, the wax can spread. You don't want it to spread into the throat of the flange, but other than that, no biggie. But, because the wax isn't resilient, you do need something to keep it from rocking. Personally, I usually make do with a penny, dime, or a nickel, giving me three different thickness items that I don't have to go to the store for. FWIW, a toilet normally won't leak until there's a backup in the pipe (waste, at least). Now, sewer gas, there won't be much, but if there's a gap, some will.

**akmacs** · 02-08-2013, 07:25 PM

Thanks Jim, I was just going to update my post. Upon tightening down the flange bolts a little more than hand tight it took the rocking out completely. Guess it was a flase alarm due to my inexperience. Now I just need to get the tank touching at all three points. I get spooked when it is china, hope I won't crack the bolt holes.

Mike

**wjcandee** · 02-08-2013, 08:53 PM

Originally Posted by akmacs

Thanks Jim, I was just going to update my post. Upon tightening down the flange bolts a little more than hand tight it took the rocking out completely. Guess it was a flase alarm due to my inexperience. Now I just need to get the tank touching at all three points. I get spooked when it is china, hope I won't crack the bolt holes.

Mike

You want the tank vertical so they are just touching, or the thickness of a piece of heavy paper apart. Once one just-touches, STOP, you can't compress china. Then see how the other contact points are doing. If they are a sheet or two of paper away, that's probably good enough. If more, loosen, straighten, and try again, slowly and alternating frequently side to side. The extra effort you put in will pay off in pride, and a nice secure tank.

A lot of people seem to start worrying that they are going to crack it when the rubber gasket starts giving resistance, but nothing is even close to touching. If nothing is close to touching, the resistance of the gasket shouldn't cause anything to crack. Again, once something touches, go no further. As noted, you can actually stop just before it touches, but getting that gasket well-compressed is your mission so it doesn't rock.

I have mounted and remounted a fair number of tanks now, and haven't cracked one, new or old, yet, following this approach. But you do have to watch carefully to make sure nothing is touching.

Having been there, I'm here to tell you that you're going to feel so great and so proud when you have this toilet installed nicely, you'll be calling your friends asking if they were planning to buy a toilet anytime soon, so you can help them install it.

By the way, I have one of the exact model that you are installing. It's a great toilet that you are going to love.

**Gary Swart** · 02-08-2013, 11:09 PM

The key to pulling the tank down is to alternate tightening sides frequently. Eyeball to see that the points are coming together evenly. You don't have to get in with a micrometer, just look at the spaces. Tighten a little bit at a time on each nut. When it looks close, use a business card in the space. When the space closes enough to put resistance on the cards when pulling on them, that's enough. You could tighten a tad more and actually bring the points together, but not really necessary. Keep it even as you go, changing sides frequently.

**stephenk** · 02-08-2013, 11:38 PM

Originally Posted by akmacs

Now I just need to get the tank touching at all three points. I get spooked when it is china, hope I won't crack the bolt holes.

The manual is very clear that the tank and bowl should touch at all three points. It took me a few tries to get it to tighten down evenly front to back. Make sure to tighten the bolts evenly, as others have said. I had to reset the tank a couple times. My Mansfield Cascade was definitely easier to install.

I don't think leaving it a little loose will really hurt anything, but I didn't want the tank to knock or move when flushed.

**akmacs** · 02-09-2013, 12:45 AM

Here is the update, tank is touching on all three points, followed the advice here and the toto drake thread and I ultimately had to snug the nuts about as much as they would go. When they touched on the front tabs the tank was almost touching the back tab so I went just a bit more while pressing the tank down and to the back which did the trick. I had to bend the flush lever arm just a bit to avoid hitting the bowl filling tube when flushing but that was all. It looks great and the flush seems strong. I hooked up a handheld bidet sprayer to rinse out cloth diapers for our nine week old which will be about the only real use for a bit as there is no door on the bathroom yet and the wife and I have a closed door bathroom policy