They do get stuck, you just have to work at it. If it is full of iron, use some iron out. I've used the same upper basket on Clack as well as Fleck valves.
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In this case, an Autotrol 255... doesn't seem to want to untwist. I'm leaning toward crushing the screen and replacing it when I reinstall the valve, but if there's a way to do it without destroying it, I'd love to save the big bucks. Are top screens interchangeable among different valve brands?
They do get stuck, you just have to work at it. If it is full of iron, use some iron out. I've used the same upper basket on Clack as well as Fleck valves.
This one isn't stuck -- valve has never been used (it's along story) -- and it twists back and forth freely about 1/32" along the diameter. There are 4 little locking tabs on the outer rim (if it's anythinglike the Fleck top basket) that are doing a damn fine job of locking. I see no way to unlock it
The clack stacked screens tend to lock in almost permanently. The standard screens should be removable. Clack and Fleck screens are deifinitely different. The Clack screens will usually work in Fleck, the Fleck screens have difficulty working in Clacks without trimming 2 of the tabs on the screen.
Keep at it, I doubt you will damage the valve, just the screen, and they are cheap.
How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
As I stated, I'm working with an Autotrol (GE) 255 valve. Dealer who sold me the valve gave me a Fleck screen, I think. Says it'll work. I'll find out tomorrow.
Last edited by Mikey; 03-22-2013 at 07:58 AM. Reason: corrected mega-typo
The Clack top screen is slightly less expensive and since it works on both, a lot of companies use it for both. The Fleck screen will work on Autotrol just fine.
I only found out the Fleck would not work on Clack about 10 years ago. I didn't have a clack screen and tried to use the Fleck on a WS1, fail.
FYI, the Fleck top screen is usually grey, the Clacks are natural.
How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
Here are two screens: The one on the right is grey, ordered from softenerparts.com as Fleck p/n TDB1050-BS. The one on the left was bought from a local dealer, his internal p/n FILA0072, described as "Upper screen, fits Autotrol and Fleckenstein". Both have 45 ribs and roughly equivalent slot areas (within the limits of my measurment capability) of around 1.06 sq in. The only obvious differences are that the Fleck "base" is 0.286" thick and it locks in by turning counterclockwise; the natural one has a 0.487" thick base and locks by turning clockwise. Once locked in, I don't see any way to get it out without destroying it. The Fleck looks a little sturdier, but that may be an optical delusion.
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The Clack equipment is also different in the valves and heads. They have two locks in the valves that make removal very difficult. The Fleck has four slides, they also lock but the screens are usually removable. The Fleck to screen shown looks more like a knock off than a true Fleck. The real Fleck one is a lighter grey. I could be wrong due to the color differences in the picture/monitor, but... The Fleck original is stronger in my opinion than the Clack standard top screens. Clack makes the best heavy duty top screens on the market but they are very expensive.![]()
Last edited by ditttohead; 03-22-2013 at 12:00 PM.
How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
The 1236 is a Clack screen, not the 40922.
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How to rebuild a softener http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8YkJS...ature=youtu.be
Thanks; all I knew is it wasn't the Fleck.
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