Delta R10000-UNBXHF Multichoice Universal Shower Only Valve Body

[themp]

Going to attempt to install this myself after the tile guy does the demo. I looked at the instructions tonight and have these question. Did search the forums first, but had over 200 hits. So, here goes...

1.) There is a metal black filter screen in the brass body. I am confused on what this does as the instructions say to remove this when done and leave it in when you solder. It also says that to much heat can damage it while soldering. I want to just remove it while soldering. Why would it tell me to leave it in while soldering? And what does it do while flushing, are there internal passages I cannot see? Because it looks like the filter screen just runs to the 1/2 inch shower head pipe.

Here are the instructions that are confusing me:

"Remove bonnet (1) and test cap (2) before soldering. Leave screen (3) installed. Warning: Avoid soldering at high temperature. Exposure to high temperatures may damage screen."

"After flushing remove filter screen (5) and reinstall cap, bonnet and cover."

2.) It came with this reusable test plug. This plug will not fit in with the filter screen in place and if I put in the plug then the filter screen, the filter screen will not seat. Here is what the instructions say for this plug. "Used to plug one inlet side (Hot or Cold) to prevent cross flow when checking for leaks before the cartridge is installed. Insert into the inlet, place test cap and use the bonnet to secure in place." I do not understand this cross flow problem and why I need to stop it for leak testing.

3.) In actually testing for leaks, do I need some kind of valve on the shower head pipe to let the air out? Or will the water pressure be enough to get the water to the end of the shower head pipe?

Thanks, Tom

This is not the plug. This is a cap that comes with the valve that allows crossover. To prevent crossing over, this should be replaced by the plug.
added by Terry Love

[LLigetfa]

I do not understand this cross flow problem and why I need to stop it for leak testing.

Crossover would happen during the test but if you don't use water during the test it matters not. Most often, the system may be pressurized longer than just the test, so unless you get the body with integral shutoffs, you will want the plug.

3.) In actually testing for leaks, do I need some kind of valve on the shower head pipe to let the air out? Or will the water pressure be enough to get the water to the end of the shower head pipe?

It is not necessary for the water to reach the top. If you have a leak, the air will all leak out and you will see the water exit. If there is no leak, it is moot.

[jadnashua]

During construction, it's not uncommon to get crud in the valve. When it comes time to install the cartridge, it is very important to flush it first. If you know how to solder, you won't overheat it enough to damage the filter screen, but you could damage the rubber parts of the cartridge if it were installed.

Until you install the cartridge, when the water is on, there's a direct path from the hot to the cold, and depending on how your pipes are laid out, you usually will get lukewarm water everywhere because of it. This is why they provide a plug. Make sure to brace the valve body well and get it at the proper depth so the trim fits like you want. There's a min/max, and anywhere in between the trim will fit, but you may want to mock up the wall thickness to get it where YOU want it aesthetically.

[themp]

Ah, now I see about the plug for the crossover. Stops crossover while the tile guy finishes his work and we use water in the rest of the house. Thanks.

Still confused on the filter screen, what is it for and I assume it is removed when the plug is in place and is not needed when the actual valve is installed.

Tom

[IC31]

First post - just found this forum and wish I had earlier!!

I'm about to install a Delta multichoice 10000 series valve using their less then great set of instructions and on a brand new Praxxis tub and surround. I have the supplied plaster guard as well as the two optional thin wall plates. This Praxxis tub surround, for no better words is not a quality fiberglass/gel coated assembly, being not much thicker then the gel coat in places. I'm very reluctant to try to whittle a hole with my jig saw the size of that plaster guard on that flimsy and brittle fiberglass.

Now, this is what I'm thinking and would appreciate some discussion on this. I prefer using a hole saw approximately the same size as the snout of the valve, say 2.5" - 3", then using one of the thin wall plates as a template drilling holes to access the various attaching screws and the trim screws. This in turn will then move the valve away from the outer face of the surround, guesstimating at possibly as much as 3/8". The required 'stringer' will be installed once the valve is situated I am not using the 'stops' version valve as being one more unneeded and potential headache.

Second question or whatever - is there a rule of thumb for placement of tub and shower spouts? The tub spout has to be at least 8" below, mine is set up at 12 and there is a flood level minimum - but any actual height suggestions for the valve and shower outlet, knowing that I'm 6'4" tall with a 5'7" wife.

Thanks for looking and your comments

[jadnashua]

I used a handheld on a sliding bar to allow easy adjustment for various people. Securing that reliably to a thin surround might be problematic, though.