Perpetual Drain Problem

Users who are viewing this thread

hrsnblm

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Mississippi
I have a problem that I have been fighting for a few years now and I am looking for any advice I can get.

On the kitchen side of my house is where my laundry room is located. The drain from the washer backs-up every few months to the point that we had to stop the washer during the draining cycle to allow the water to run out before continuing. The washer drain y’s in with the kitchen sink to go to the main drain in the center of the house (slab floors).

I have snaked it regularly, to the point I bought my own power drain cleaner so I could quit renting them. It would help for awhile, then start all over again. I have had it scoped, and have been told that there is nothing wrong with the pipes. I have tried using chemical drain cleaners and (on the recommendation of the last plumber I had) allowed bleach to sit overnight in the pipes before rinsing down the next day.

NOTHING HAS WORKED!!!! Any suggestions, comments, Prozac to offer???!?

Thanks ahead of time for any and all who respond.

Howard
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
How big is the drain line? Today's code requires 2". Where is the vent? Is this the only thing that backs things up? How about a shower or tub? Keep in mind that the washing machine (other than maybe a big tub) dumps a bunch of water faster than anything else in your house. A restriction wouldn't be noticed until you tried to dump the water fast. How long is that snake? You could have a break or restriction beyond where it can go in. You might want to pay to have the line scoped with a camera.
 

Cass

Plumber
Messages
5,947
Reaction score
7
Points
0
Location
Ohio
What are the pipes? Galv., copper, plastic? What size cutter head are you running down the pipe when you snake it? How far do you snake it?
 

Plumber1

Plumber
Messages
1,417
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Florida
clog

You have to say to yourself again........
There are electric snakes and there are electric snakes. And then there is how the line is snaked .
The way you use the drain makes a difference.
In the past has the drain been opened or really snaked out good?
Is this a long 3" branch under the slab or is this a long run of 11/2" or 2" pipe.
How far to where it ties into the main drain?
 

INTP

New Member
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Points
0
I have the EXACT same problem (I could have written every word of the original post). The first time I had it cleaned it worked for about a year. The Harbor Freight snake I now use is only good for about 6 months. Either way, it's a chronic problem, so I decided that doing it myself is worth it (for now).
 

mrjetskey

New Member
Messages
28
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Texas
I have just run into the same problem,we replaced the washing machine which was a 16 year old kenmore with a new whirlpool ,we never had drain problems with the old machine,a week after installing the new one I noticed the drywall was damp,I had the drain inspected ,cleaned and scoped.No problem other than the drain is a 1 1/2 "and the new washer pumps way too fast ,the only solution without tearing up slab was to pack off the washer hose where it goes in the drain,there really is no pressure as the line is vented up,and that solved the problem.seems the newer washers have really efficient pumps
 

Bob NH

In the Trades
Messages
3,310
Reaction score
9
Points
0
Location
New Hampshire
I solved the washer drain problem by installing a sink near the washing machine. It is a large, deep sink that discharges through the 1 1/2" line, then to a 2" cast iron line under the floor.

I put the washing machine hose over the edge of the sink (and wired it down). The sink fills about 1/2 full during a discharge but never overflows.

Be sure you never leave rags or stuff in the sink, or a drain plug. The washing machine operator never checks the sink for plugs.

I also added hot and cold faucets so I now have a shop sink with running water.
 

hrsnblm

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Mississippi
Some answers

I hope this response answers some of the questions posted.

It appears that the drain is 1-1/2" to 2" PVC that runs parallel to my outside wall till approximately where it joins up with the kitchen sink. It then veers back through the center of the house (I believe) where it joins up with the main sewage line out to the street. There are no back-ups on the bathrooms side of the house. And the kitchen sink is not affected, but that may be because of the lower amount of water running out. The vent for the washing machine drain is right there and it is not blocked.

I used a 50' power snake, with both a 1-1/2" U-cutter blade and a 1-1/4" cutter blade. As I snaked the line out, I never hit any blockages. With the snake being as long as it is, there are only two ways for it to go; up the kitchen sink vent, or down the drain line to the main sewage drain. I verified that the snake was going the correct direction (no snake popping out the top of the house, and I could hear the snake through the kitchen floor where the turn-off is approximately located).

As I said previously, I have had the lines scoped and the result that there were no breaks in the line and no roots, at that time. One error I made was rinsing the line down before pulling the snake out (suggested by the manufacturer to clean it), so I do not know what, if any, debris was on it. I guess I could do it again and not clean it to see what is on it.

I know that you plumbers out there do a great service and I understand "overhead costs" but I just can not afford to pay someone to come out and do this again and pay $200 - $500 to scope the lines. What is a reasonable charge for this service? Can these scopes be rented?

Thanks for any suggestions; I do appreciate it.

Howard
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
You may have answered your own question...you have a 1-1/2" line from the washing machine. Can you replace all of that up to the existing 2" with 2"? If so, your problem would probably go away. Today's washing machines pump water faster than the old ones did and can overload a smaller line. The area on a 2" is pi*r^2 = 3.14 sq inches, on a 1.5" = 1.77 sq inches, the 2" is 177% larger. The pump is trying to push the water faster than gravity can let it flow away.
 

FloridaOrange

Plumbing Designer
Messages
1,298
Reaction score
2
Points
36
Location
SW Florida
jadnashua said:
You may have answered your own question...you have a 1-1/2" line from the washing machine. Can you replace all of that up to the existing 2" with 2"? If so, your problem would probably go away. Today's washing machines pump water faster than the old ones did and can overload a smaller line. The area on a 2" is pi*r^2 = 3.14 sq inches, on a 1.5" = 1.77 sq inches, the 2" is 177% larger. The pump is trying to push the water faster than gravity can let it flow away.

As a matter of interest, 2004 FPC (Florida) requires a 3" up to the tee on washing machines.
 

hrsnblm

New Member
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Mississippi
Probably not. The line runs UNDER the foundation (concrete, no access) & to lay a new line would cost me a couple of thousand dollars, even if I did most of the work myself, which I usually do.

This is getting more & more a situation that I just may have to live with. Any one want to come down to Mississippi for a few days and help me put in a new drain line??!?! Bring your Ditch-Witch with you..... hahahaha :D

Thanks.
 

Jadnashua

Retired Defense Industry Engineer xxx
Messages
32,770
Reaction score
1,190
Points
113
Location
New England
Then it appears that the best alternative is maybe to put a sink/basin in there as previously noted, and let it act as a buffer.
 
Top
Hey, wait a minute.

This is awkward, but...

It looks like you're using an ad blocker. We get it, but (1) terrylove.com can't live without ads, and (2) ad blockers can cause issues with videos and comments. If you'd like to support the site, please allow ads.

If any particular ad is your REASON for blocking ads, please let us know. We might be able to do something about it. Thanks.
I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks