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Thread: catalytic carbon or filox?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member ternzer's Avatar
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    Default catalytic carbon or filox?

    Hi,
    Longtime lurker first time poster.
    I am looking for some advice on what to use for my iron removal and slight sulfur smell.

    I had my water tested by a local lab:
    All these are in mg/L:
    Iron is 2.3 (which is different that all test strips. I used 5 different kits and all were .2-.3)
    Sodium 1.95
    No nitrates
    Sulfate 24.4
    Hardness 140
    Ph 7.8
    Iron bacteria – negative (had the lab specifically test for it)
    No other bacterias
    Alkalinity 100-120
    Hydrogen sulfide <1ppm

    We average 350g per day based on our water meter records from our last home (5 ppl 3.5 baths).
    The well is 30 ft deep with submersible pump with 1" main
    tested my flow using the pressure tank refill time method and it is 18-20gpm
    I also tested my ORP using the pot perm test and it was good.

    a little history. I bought the house in December and it had a culligan SulfurClear system hooked up and an old fouled one in the corner. After talking to culligan, it turns out that the previous owner choose to lease a new one since the old one was fouled. Long story short….. culligan is gone, and my water improved significantly since their system was removed. ( I gave them 3 tries, along with my lab results from the well AND the tap)
    However, I am now using my softener to temporarily remove my iron. Based on the info I found here I compensated for the iron in the regen settings. My water is better and tolerable but not perfect, I still have some iron (water turns tan) and a slight sulfur smell on the cold side. I have a 11 year old cullgan estate 2 that I own and will probably replace next year. But I want to get an iron system in before I replace the softener.

    So, my questions. What do I use for my iron and slight sulfur smell? I have sent my lab results to 4 reputable water stores online and it is tied 2 for 2 catalytic carbon/filox. So I want your opinion.

    Option 1: catalytic carbon 1.5cf with either bleach, peroxide, or air injection.
    Concerns: my sulfur clear system was catalytic carbon with peroxide. It seems that the first system was 8 years old, the last one was 2 years old and didn’t work well. It seems these units last 3-5 years. I don’t like the idea of having to keep up on the bleach/peroxide tank. It also looks like these require a 1-2 backwash. If I went this route I would probably go with the air infusion. Is there any reason I would use this over filox if I have the flow?

    Option 2: Mangox, Filox, or Terminox 1.5 cf or 2cf with or without a bleach tank for flushing.
    Concerns: – I am leaning toward a mangox/filox system with metered fleck (7000sxt). it looks like these will last up to 10 years with proper flushing and maintenance. It also looks like i could flush this every 2-3 days.
    - I believe I have enough flow at 18gpm.
    - Do I really need to do the bleach backwash with my low levels?
    - Is 1.5 enough or should I go with 2cf (do I have the flow for 2cf)
    - Am I correct in thinking that if I have the flow for backwash that this is better than the catalytic carbon systems?

    thanks in advance.

    troy

    oh, and is there anything i should keep the old culligan tank for? otherwise ill craigslist it.

  2. #2
    DIY Junior Member ternzer's Avatar
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    Default

    60 views and not 1 response?
    I have seen responses to questions that could easily be answered with a simple search. i dont get it.
    anyway. If anyone does take the time to look. I do have another question.
    is there any reason to get a metered valve with filox? it looks from what i read that it needs to backwash every 2-3 days regardless of volume.

  3. #3
    DIY Senior Member mialynette2003's Avatar
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    I recommend chemical injection (chlorine) vs medias like Filox because of the weight of the media. If your well does not produce the flow rate required to properly backwash the media, it will fail and you are back to square one. There is no need for a metered valve on a backwashing filter. These filters are cleaned based on time rather than gallons. I would not go with a 7000 valve either. Fleck seems to be having an issue with them working properly.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The 7000 backwash valve is not affected, (technically speaking, unless you want to convert the valve body in the future to a softener valve), and the question on which media is a better depends on a huge number of factors. At you low levels, I prefer the Pyrolox design, if your well can handle the higher backwash rates. Their are many medias that have been out for a few years that appear to be working well for your application, but we are still running our long term tests before we officially sign on to these updated version of the common medias used for this type of water.

    The Chlorine injection/Cat GAC combo works almost every time it is tried. The Pyrolox design works most of the time. Meters are not needed for most filter systems.

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    DIY Junior Member ternzer's Avatar
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    i was going to upgrade my softener a few months down the road. when i do i was going to get one with the 7000 valve too. then i would have the same valve on both units. so if i want them to match should i avoid the 7000? if so what is recommended? i plan to feed it with 1" copper.

  6. #6
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    7000SXT's are already shipped. I just got in a few pallets yesterday and they tested good. The problem appears to have been a tolerance issue in the main valve body that could cause a drip to the brine system. This would cause excessive salt usage. A very minor issue that was quickly corrected.

    Pyrolox needs very high backwash rates. There are not a lot of choices for control valves in that price range that can handle the higher backwash rates. The 7000 can easily handle up to a 3+ cu. ft. pyrolox system.

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