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I like a trench depth of 4-4 1/2' deep, but I have seen water lines at 2' that didn't freeze.
You can certainly put more fill around the well, but I would rather see a new pitless installed and the line buried deeper.
Since the well recovers at 24 GPM, you only need to set the pump a few feet below the pumping level. But if you don’t know the exact pumping level, you need to set the pump back to 220’ like it was, because it is possible the water is coming in at 210’.
If you had a water level gauge like the one in the picture, you could determine the exact pumping level. Without having an air line level gauge in this well previously, I would set it back as low as possible. Setting the pump as low as possible also keeps the bottom of the well from filling with sand.
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Last edited by valveman; 01-25-2013 at 05:59 AM.
Nice well water depth setup ... (looks like a new well), and clean job work to boot.
Made some Jigs (fabricated tools), but lacking one more tool to get started.
thanks all for your assistance and your patience.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-23-2013 at 07:36 PM.
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Notice that my airline gauge reads 9 PSI, which means I have 20.7’ of water above my pump. But when I pump it hard the airline gauge drops to 1 PSI, which is only 2.31’ of water above my pump. This is how I know my pipe cannot be shortened as my pump cannot be raised higher in the well.
Well is almost 20 years old. Removed fake rock for picture.
I'm finding hard to decide on the configuration of pumps and and their specs.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-23-2013 at 07:37 PM.
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How do I go in lowering the pitiless?
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-23-2013 at 07:40 PM.
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Use the old one, you just have to cut the casing where the hole is and couple it together so you don't get surface water into the well.
Done with a couple of the fabricated tools made from scrap metal I found lying around.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-28-2013 at 09:53 AM.
As removed from well casing; photos showing exactly the well pump, and pump wires at pump, and the electrical splice connection for the well pump. no arrestor.
The upper casing of well pump was loose and would slide up and down. Why would the pump shell separate and this caused the pump wires to short out?
It was a Gould Bruiser Pump.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-28-2013 at 09:56 AM.
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I like the drop of blood on the ground wire.
Bruiser, what a piece of shit pump if there ever was one. I have pulled them when they were junk after less than 5 yrs.
Notice how the plastic threads are destroyed? It looks as though the pump locked up and spun the jacket. Another good reason to use a pump with stainless ends.
Tape splices are ok if done correctly, but that takes more time & costs more than using a heat shrink, so why do it?
A lot of guys don't use a torque arrestor in pvc wells, but I think it is a good idea and good peace of mind for an extra few dollars.
Your wife has the patience of a saint to go this long without water.
torque arrestors ? any differences?
Today, the weather is beautiful, sun is shining and some fresh air.
We can't wait to get this all fixed and back running again.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-23-2013 at 07:45 PM.
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I'm trying my best, and with the help of you all in forum, this well will be up and running very soon.
The bad weather the other factor, not a simple project,
Thank you God!
All is covered now.
Just waiting on the new pump and other parts now.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-28-2013 at 09:57 AM. Reason: update:
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