Reply With QuoteIf your static water level is 15 feet down from the top, then you don't need that much HP. Something doesn't add up.
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Well pump replacement - no water
Had water the night before, and this yesterday morning I have no water.
Descriptions of Well and House below:
Well switch set @ 30 - 50 psi
static water 15 feet
well depth 240 feet
1.5 HP, 10 GPM pump
Measured voltage all the way to well head, but no AMPs were measured.
The electrical power is shut- off to pump now.
My well pump gave out, or a crimped wire problem?
Questions: Should I pull pump prior to ordering well pump?
Can I pull the pump with a cherry picker (engine hoist)?
I'm sure I will have more questions.
Thanks for your comments, and help.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-23-2013 at 07:58 PM.
If your static water level is 15 feet down from the top, then you don't need that much HP. Something doesn't add up.
How old is the pump?
Has it been short cycling against a water logged tank?
Did it trip the breaker?
Probably the pump and / or wire is the problem, but you really need to ohm out the wire between the well & house and then ohm out the wire downhole to see if there are shorts to ground and to determine if there is continuity through the wire & motor. Without ohming out the pump & wire you are shooting in the dark so to speak.
I don't think you want to pull sch 80 with a cherry picker, see if a local plumbing supply house will rent you an Up Z Dazy when you buy the pump & new wire
What would be a good pump size/model? should pump height change?Originally Posted by LLigetfa
7 years old pump.
Yes, it would cycle on and then off. when the toilet flushed. not sure if the tank was water logged.it been short cycling against a water logged tank?
No, breaker trip.it trip the breaker?
this test is done after I pull out the pump? or do this testing before?the pump and / or wire is the problem, but you really need to ohm out the wire between the well & house and then ohm out the wire downhole to see if there are shorts to ground and to determine if there is continuity through the wire & motor. Without ohming out the pump & wire you are shooting in the dark so to speak.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 01-17-2013 at 08:24 PM.
You need to ohm the system out with the pump & wire still in the well to get initial readings, then ohm the pump when it's out of the well.
Seven years isn't very old, we pulled a Goulds the other day that has been in since 1986.
If the pump was cycling on & off every time you ran water, the tank is probably water logged. Water logged tanks will eventually kill a pump motor.
I would stay with a 1.5 HP, 10 GPM pump. If the water level pulls down close to 240', you will need the 1.5 HP. Some pumps last longer but, pumps are designed to last 7 years, and most will average this amount of time. If the pump was short cycling, like on/off every time a toilet is flushed, you are lucky it lasted that long. Regular cycling causes the tank bladder to burst, then a waterlogged tank will shortly take out the pump. The overload is in the motor, which is why you can't tell it is tripped. But it you have the correct voltage going to the pump with no amperage, the overload in the motor is tripped, or you have a broken wire down hole. I would ohm it out to make sure, but you probably won't know until you pull it up so you can see what happened.
Initial ohms reading of 12 guage wire to pump.
Green and Black = 3 plus or minus reading, at 200k setting.
Green and Red = 12 plus or minus reading, at 200M setting .
Black and Red = 1 or no continuity (open circuit).
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-23-2013 at 07:58 PM.
Additional Well Information
Estimated electric load based on a 1.5 hp motor, 75 degree insulation, is at approximately 0.785 .
Old pump is 7 years old, and has probably reached it time limit or closed too .
Then, I should order new pump with new well wire, to replace old pump. or should i wait till I pull the old pump and well wire out, and inspected and tested?
Thanks comments, and help.
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-20-2013 at 09:31 AM.
I'm not really understanding why the pump needs to be set so low with that much recovery but then I'm not a pumpman. Just seems like a lot of pump, a lot of wire, and a lot of pipe.
When I met with the well man 7 years ago. He mentioned for this area, he had set plenty of wells, and at 120 to 140 deep well casing, there was plenty of water for house hold and lawn.
My thinking, 7 years ago, was at a deeper level, there would be fresher water, and less contaminates.
Question:There is a potential of the water line from well head to water storage tank in house, FREEZing
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-28-2013 at 09:47 AM.
You don't say where the casing ends and the rock bore begins. 1 HP and bigger pumps like to have cooling flow past the motor. If the motor is set low, it may be top fed and so not get as much cooling.
Question: I called around, for an Up Z Dazy . No one has any. Any suggestions on pulling up well pipe?
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-28-2013 at 09:48 AM.
Then regardless of where the pump is set, it will be the same water because it all comes in from the bottom.
A Red Lion pump? I'm afraid to ask who sells that...........
You had better get a new tank along with the new pump or you will be pulling the pump again soon. Size the tank so the pump will have at least a one minute run time when it comes on. I prefer two minutes run time.
To promote longer pump life, put a sleeve over the pump to pull water across the motor. Better cooling = longer life.
A 3 wire pump will have no advantages over a 2 wire pump if the lines freeze, you better dig the trench deeper too.
A friend of mine had a Red Lion Submersible Well pump installed last year, he seemed to be happy with the pump and he did mention they use Franklin Motors. Are Red Lion pumps of good quality?
Last edited by DYIWeller; 02-28-2013 at 09:48 AM.
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