Those are "screw in compression" valves so the orientation of the screwdriver slot hs NO relationship to whether it is open or closed.
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LOLsure looks like the stop screw on the cold side of the valve is closed
Yes, that's a good place to start. Make sure "both" stops are open.
Good pick up on the photo!
Those are "screw in compression" valves so the orientation of the screwdriver slot hs NO relationship to whether it is open or closed.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
I decided the shut off valves work so took it out and got it apart and removed the scale and rust that was locking the spool. It now slides back and forth easily when you shake the assembly. No springs, it floats freely but is a precision fit in the cylinder. You can see the metal pieces in the picture.
The brand is "UPC" and an identical unit is available at:
http://www.arpny.com/
One Part number: Huntington Brass hun7006 although apparently several low end manufacturers use it. This is the only one I found. I was so excited to get it clean that I failed to put grease in to hold the rear O-rings when I was putting the body back in, and I have lost one D-shaped O-ring as seen in the picture.
All of the blue O-rings and the blue outside gasket seal to the back of the body which is flat with holes in it as required.
I don't know wherher I can use some silicone cement to seal this or find a new O-ring, or have to buy a new cartridge.
Thanks to everyone, especially the person who gave me the URL. I didn't go there until I found I had lost the O-ring. [Blue D-shaped in picture]
The actual valves are Delta-style and are in a section that would be behind the section in the picture.
Last edited by ou1954; 01-11-2013 at 09:09 PM. Reason: Add comment
Modern code requires anti-scald. This consists of two parts: limiting 'normal' maximum temperature (typically to 120-degrees F), and some means of preventing radical changes in temp when the pressure varies, like when someone flushes a toilet. Not sure exactly when this came into being, but it's been around for a number of years now (thus my description of 'modern'). Some use checkvalve(s), some use a spool valve, some use a thermostatically controlled valve, some use a combination. THis is almost always combined with the mechanical limiter. Since the supply at the hot side could change, a mechanical stop is one of the weakest ways to limit the temp. If adjusted in the summer when the cold is much warmer, it may not get hot enough in the winter. IF set in the winter, it may require mostly hot to reach that max safe temp, then in the summer could be way too hot. So, a much safer way is to use a thermostatically controlled valve. Most people never really adjust the things, and then that portion of the safety is lost. A mechanical limiter does nothing to prevent temperature variations caused by changes in pressure (thus flow). At the WH, many places require a tempering valve to limit the water temp, and this can make the stop at the shower valve redundant, but it still won't affect rapid variations in single sided supply which can cause problems.
Jim DeBruycker
Important note - I'm not a pro
Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013
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jadnashua- Yes indeed. It has a free floading piston in the far back that moves from left to right. At least it's free floating now. Only problem is that I have lost one critical O-Ring (actually D shaped) as seen in the picture I have added. It's a precision piston in a precision sleeve, no springs. Apparently it is the anti-scald control.
I doubt I can find any replacement O-rings but as a first start I will put the repaired one in the jacuzzi and wait until I can get a replacement cartridge or O-ring to use after cleaning the one from the jazuzzi. The guest shower has only been used for one guest in the past 5 years. All plumbing shops are closed on Saturday.
A hot limit stop on the stem does NOT qualify as anti-scald. However, the spool in there is a balancing spool.
UPC is not a brand name. It is the code seal of approval from IAPMO. There are NEVER any repair kits for this type of cartrigde. You need to buy a new cartridge.
San Diego- Lived there and in La Jolla for 50 years and retired back to Oklahoma in 2007. Sad that this cartridge has no brand name but I did find a replacement as mentioned. The vendor in New York is closed on weekends so I will contact them next week. It pains me to have to buy a whole new cartridge when the only issue is that one seal. I was on my feet all day yesterday and will have a look with a mirror tomorrow. Thanks so much for clarifying the brand issue.
I tend to understand that the piston that floats back and forth is some sort of anti-scald device which is supposed to shut down hot flow if cold pressure suddenly drops. I do understand that the limit stop on the front of the unit is simply a maximum hot setting device. Thanks again Jimbo. My kids are all in SD and they have children and grand-children and I miss them a lot but we had to retire here because of the cost of living.
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