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Thread: submersible pump and pipe routing

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member gizmodiy's Avatar
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    Default submersible pump and pipe routing

    I am replacing a jet pump with a submersible pump (1.2 hp, 2-wire, 10 GPM) in a lake application. In the process I am moving the hot water tank (from outside to inside - don't ask!). My question is with respect to the placement of the pressure tank, pressure switch, relief valve, pressure gauge, hot water tank as well as what's advisable in terms of bends in the piping. I'm planning on using 1" piping.

    Every diagram I have seen, including the one that comes with the pump, shows all of the above pieces placed horizontal. However, I'm short on space and I would like to have it vertical. Since this needs to drain by gravity as well for the winter, I think being vertical is that much better.

    1. Does the attached diagram look like it would work well?
    2. Is there an issue with putting the pressure switch on the piping that goes from the main vertical pipName:  2013-01-06 10.50.58.jpg
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Size:  24.6 KBe to the horizontal one that goes to the pressure tank?
    3. Is the 90 degree bend in the pipe (horizontal to vertical piping at the bottom the the picture) ok? Will it cause issues?
    3. What is the recommended kind of piping (PVC, copper, pex, brass, ?). I'm leaning to brass but I don't have a reason in mind. I'm reading that using two wrenches for a snug and grunt fit is all I would need for brass, no soldering. I'd use pex for all piping into the dwelling, and poly to the submersible pump.

    Thank you in advance!

  2. #2
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    No reason to have a ball valve between the tank and the pump. If it should get turned off the pump would just continue to run untill it burnt itself out.

    John

  3. #3
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    I question why 1.5 HP? What is the vertical rise from the lake surface to warrant that much HP for just 10 GPM?

    Put the PRV before the ball valve, not after it.

  4. #4
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    I question why 1.5 HP? What is the vertical rise from the lake surface to warrant that much HP for just 10 GPM?

    Put the PRV before the ball valve, not after it.
    What would be the reason for the ball valve in that location to start with?

    John

  5. #5
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Only the OP can answer that. Putting the PRV before it mitigates the risk you identified.

  6. #6
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    You should not install a shut of before the pressure tank.
    You will want to have one after the tank, and then another after the water heater.

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