(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: submersible pump and pipe routing

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member gizmodiy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    14

    Default submersible pump and pipe routing

    I am replacing a jet pump with a submersible pump (1.2 hp, 2-wire, 10 GPM) in a lake application. In the process I am moving the hot water tank (from outside to inside - don't ask!). My question is with respect to the placement of the pressure tank, pressure switch, relief valve, pressure gauge, hot water tank as well as what's advisable in terms of bends in the piping. I'm planning on using 1" piping.

    Every diagram I have seen, including the one that comes with the pump, shows all of the above pieces placed horizontal. However, I'm short on space and I would like to have it vertical. Since this needs to drain by gravity as well for the winter, I think being vertical is that much better.

    1. Does the attached diagram look like it would work well?
    2. Is there an issue with putting the pressure switch on the piping that goes from the main vertical pipName:  2013-01-06 10.50.58.jpg
Views: 342
Size:  24.6 KBe to the horizontal one that goes to the pressure tank?
    3. Is the 90 degree bend in the pipe (horizontal to vertical piping at the bottom the the picture) ok? Will it cause issues?
    3. What is the recommended kind of piping (PVC, copper, pex, brass, ?). I'm leaning to brass but I don't have a reason in mind. I'm reading that using two wrenches for a snug and grunt fit is all I would need for brass, no soldering. I'd use pex for all piping into the dwelling, and poly to the submersible pump.

    Thank you in advance!

  2. #2
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    South*East
    Posts
    1,121

    Default

    No reason to have a ball valve between the tank and the pump. If it should get turned off the pump would just continue to run untill it burnt itself out.

    John

  3. #3
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,675

    Default

    I question why 1.5 HP? What is the vertical rise from the lake surface to warrant that much HP for just 10 GPM?

    Put the PRV before the ball valve, not after it.

  4. #4
    Plumbing Contractor for 49 years johnjh2o1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    South*East
    Posts
    1,121

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    I question why 1.5 HP? What is the vertical rise from the lake surface to warrant that much HP for just 10 GPM?

    Put the PRV before the ball valve, not after it.
    What would be the reason for the ball valve in that location to start with?

    John

  5. #5
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,675

    Default

    Only the OP can answer that. Putting the PRV before it mitigates the risk you identified.

  6. #6
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Land of Cheese
    Posts
    3,134

    Default

    You should not install a shut of before the pressure tank.
    You will want to have one after the tank, and then another after the water heater.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member gizmodiy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    14

    Default

    >> I question why 1.5 HP?
    Sorry, typo. Its a 1/2 HP, 230V, 2 wire. The vertical height from the resting point in the lake to all the pressure take is no more than 20 feet. The distance is about 135 feet.

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member gizmodiy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I'm fairly week in the drawing department At the very bottom of the picture I've tried to draw a "T" where one direction goes to the lake and the other allow water to drain out of the system when I need to void the interior pipes for the winter. The dwelling is not heated in the winter or used in the winter.

    Here's my rationale for the ball values....

    The left side of the T at the bottom is to allow water to drain out of the system without having to drain the water to the lake on the right side. This would allow me to fix any issues without having to drain the pipe to the lake. Now that I think about it I can't see a reason to have a ball valve to the right of the T ... because if the power to the pump was turned off, then I could open the left side to drain, and the right would stay filled. Does this sound correct?

    The ball valve going into the hot water tank allows me to shut off water coming in if I need to fix/replace the water tank. The valve after the water tank allows me to shut off the hot water to the dwelling in case I need to fix something inside the dwelling. I also account for some kind of T there to allow me to drain the hot water tank for the winter.

    I'm not following the suggestion on where to put the PRV? Where should it go and why?

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member gizmodiy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Thank you for the feedback! Any opinions on

    1. The placement of the Pressure Switch, which I have on the horizontal pipe to the pressure tank? Any issues with this?
    2. The configuration being vertical instead horizontal? Any issues with this?

  10. #10
    Moderator valveman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Lubbock, Texas
    Posts
    4,153

    Default

    Or you could use one of these.

    Because the Pside-kick kit uses a CSV, you only need the 4.5 gallon pressure tank, and it can be mounted verticle or any direction you need.

Similar Threads

  1. Copper Supply Routing over/across vent pipe?
    By raya in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 03-08-2013, 06:11 AM
  2. Re-routing a vent pipe.
    By vhanley in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-13-2009, 08:43 AM
  3. Revised Routing of copper pipe to tub/shower valve
    By FJK in forum Shower & bathtub Forum & Blog
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-07-2008, 03:54 PM
  4. Re-routing Vent Pipe
    By jengels2002 in forum Remodel Forum & Blog
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-19-2006, 06:00 PM
  5. Kitchen Remodel: Help with Pipe Routing
    By jr24308 in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 06-01-2006, 08:26 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •