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Thread: air in pipes?

  1. #1
    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    Default air in pipes?

    2 weeks ago I drained HW tank and flushed repeatedly to remove all the anode rod junk (15x) I installed an anode rod. I also drained bladder tank and installed a new inline cartridge(12") and the water has been great! My shutoffs were somewhat seized from age/gunk? and I loosened the nuts to get the valves to work. Ever since all this I'm picking up air which is present from any faucet when first run? It's not as bad when first purging air after an open system but it annoys me. I have no leaks though? I would think to draw air I would also see a leak somewhere? I have tried "snapping" the relief valve on HW tank too..Puzzled?

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Depending on your water chemistry and the type of anode material, some can produce gas in the water. You may need a different type of metal on your anode.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

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    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    Oh...I didn't know that? I know the 6 yr tank has lasted 12 yrs.now I did have the co. send me another anode when new for rotten egg smell and kept the old one which was new anyway? That is how I got the current replacement I used.

  4. #4
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Are you on municipal or well water? Do you have an iron filter or softener?

    Sometimes air may be en-trained in the water as part of the treatment process. When aerated water is heated, it releases the air. That is why a hot spell can kill a lot of fish.

    Many iron filters work by aeration. Water softeners that don't properly shut off the brine line can draw in enough air to later cause spitting at faucets.

    When you drained the bladder tank, did you make sure it had the proper precharge or did you trap air above the water? Did you verify that the bladder is sound?

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    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    Are you on municipal or well water? Do you have an iron filter or softener?

    Sometimes air may be en-trained in the water as part of the treatment process. When aerated water is heated, it releases the air. That is why a hot spell can kill a lot of fish.

    Many iron filters work by aeration. Water softeners that don't properly shut off the brine line can draw in enough air to later cause spitting at faucets.

    When you drained the bladder tank, did you make sure it had the proper precharge or did you trap air above the water? Did you verify that the bladder is sound?
    I'm on a well, just a small whole house sediment filter($50.00 model) to a Sears water softener(new last year) I just drained the bladder(new a year or 2 ago) and then refilled..?

  6. #6
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by billfig View Post
    I just drained the bladder(new a year or 2 ago) and then refilled..?
    That statement in and of itself raises doubts. The way a bladder tank works is that with a proper precharge, it is nearly empty at the kick-in pressure so there really is not much of anything to "drain". If the precharge is not properly maintained, the bladder may rupture or fail prematurely.

    Is your well pump above ground or submersed? If above ground, you could have a suction-side leak.

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    5yr.old Gould submersible in a 80' well. I just turn the power off to pump and drain tank then close petcock/valve, and fill tank..? I'll go check my psi precharge now...just checked tank, 30psi/ cut-in 32psi just as it should. I did just check on the old but upgraded anode which American Water Heater of TN. still sells, an aluminum/zinc/tin one for $50.00 which lasted 12 yrs. and did remove odors. I just used the original one from tank which doesn't seem to have any odor effects now?? glad I kept it. This isn't a big deal and most would never even know but since I do all the work and maintainance...I know it aint 100%..but very close! lol

  8. #8
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
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    OK, then that leaves the anode or the softener as likely suspects. Watch the softener as it is nearing the end of the brine draw. If is sucks in a lot of air, that air will sit at the top of the resin tank and slowly get absorbed into the water. The heat will then drive it out and collect at the top of the tank.

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    DIY Senior Member billfig's Avatar
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    Yea, OK.. in fact, when I did the servicing I also removed the venturi/nozzle assy and cleaned. I think I'll check and make sure all is correct there too while I'm at it. Believe it or not, I did think for the next few days if the softener was working cause the salt level hadn't seemed to drop(maybe nuthin) I was checking it daily, then I did notice a drop after maybe 4 or 5 or 5-6 days. The softener itself I just renewed 2 yrs. ago iirc. I must admit too, when I was tightening the filter cartridge housing using my 2' channel locks I did hear a pretty good snap/crack (I already have the barbs or whatever broken off) but I had no external leaks so I figured I'm good to go...for now..

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member bookemdanno's Avatar
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    If it is the water softener, you will get the air only in the cold side and only the morning after regeneration. Once the air is washed out, you will not get it again until the next AM after the next regeneration.

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