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Thread: Trap for very narrow "hand rinse basin"

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member yumbrad's Avatar
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    Default Trap for very narrow "hand rinse basin"

    I'm trying to do the drain for a "Porcher Elfe" no-overflow sink. This is a very narrow sink (for our very narrow half bath) - the drain hole center is 3.5" away from the wall. I first removed the chromed brass wall piece that stuck out quite a way - thanks to searching and reading previous posts, I was able to identify and remove the solder bushing in my CI stack, by hacksawing out a section.

    My thought was to use a bottle trap, as that seems to be what's in all the pictures I could find of these european style hand-rinse sinks. Unfortunately, the sink drain is 1/2" offset from the wall opening. I'd love to avoid moving the sink if possible (wallpaper cut/installed around the existing location), and the local plumbing supply sold me a brass 1-1/2" to 1-1/4" trap adapter with rubber washer and slip nut - he said it would likely maintain the seal while allowing the 1/2" offset to the bottle trap. After screwing it into the wall, I'm not sure there will be room - haven't bought the bottle trap yet.

    Is this a viable route? Other thought I had was trying to somehow link up a "double offset" to the drain, to allow a p-trap to come back in front of the DWV. But this or other p-trap options seem like they might be pretty ugly in this exposed location compared to a bottle trap. Also, if I do screw in a brass adapter into the cast iron, do I need something on the threads?

    I'll try to include some pictures of the situation. I appreciate advice!!

    btw, I plan to replace the left shut-off valve with the right angle style that is on the right.

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  2. #2
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    That is a 1 1/2x1 1/2 trap adapter with a reducing washer, so it SHOULD accomodate the offset, but all you can do is install it and try it out.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  3. #3
    DIY Junior Member yumbrad's Avatar
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    Ok thanks, I'll order a bottle trap and give it a try. Should I put anything on the threads of the brass adapter that screws into the cast iron in the wall?

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    pipe threads always require some way to seal things (unless it is a straight thread with a gasket), either pipe dope and/or tape.
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member yumbrad's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks. I ordered this upc approved trap, as it was the narrowest I could find. Gonna be a tight fit if it works!

    http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...47817f75f9.pdf

  6. #6
    DIY Junior Member yumbrad's Avatar
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    First obstacle - inlet pipe of bottle trap was not long enough to get trap level with DWV. It's 1.25" flanged chromed brass, 6" long as supplied in trap. 1.5" is very commonly available, 1.25" *not* very common. Found a couple though, ordered this 12" one: http://www.amazon.com/Ace-Flanged-Si.../dp/B000H5PUR6 ... now to wait again

  7. #7
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    The easy way would have been to just order the bottle trap and use a drain fitting with a threaded outlet. Threaded tubing is very common and could be cut to any size you needed.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

  8. #8
    DIY Junior Member yumbrad's Avatar
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    I'm a little confused, as I thought that's what I did - well the part about using a drain fitting with a threaded outlet anyway. The drain fitting does have a threaded outlet, but it isn't long enough - the bottle trap screwed on to it is well above the dwv. Do you mean pick a drain fitting that has a longer threaded outlet, or use a coupling with an additional threaded pipe cut to the appropriate length? Or something else? I appreciate your insights!

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member yumbrad's Avatar
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    Well, it seems to have worked! The first time I tightened things up, I got a little leak from where the sink mates with the drain gasket - I had a thicker gasket so I used that and tried not tightening it down so hard. That seems to have solved that. None of the sections I thought might leak did! Used pipe dope for the brass to iron, and tape on all the other threaded connections. There was enough play thanks to all the gaskets that everything tightened down and lined up nicely. I'll include a couple pics. Thanks for the help!

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  10. #10
    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pictures of the finished installation. Looks good.

  11. #11
    DIY Senior Member wjcandee's Avatar
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    Nice move replacing those supplies as well. The whole installation looks very nice!! Yay...shiny!

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