Thats going to depend on your local jurisdiction, you also need to know if an AAV is allowed, if not you will have to run your vent.
If allowed I would just stub it up thru the floor and cap it,
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I'm doing a kitchen remodel that includes complete re-pipe and new cabinets, sink, etc. The kitchen sink is located on an external wall, under a large 6 foot wide window. Because of the location, I do not want to put the DWV pipes in the wall. I'm planning to put the kitchen sink drain through the floor. See the attached drawing. My question is: How much of the kitchen drain pipe should I put in, and cap off, for my rough-in plumbing inspection? My challenge is that I still have to install the kitchen cabinets after I get the rough-in inspections for plumbing and electrical. Should I just leave a stub of the pipe a few inches above the floor and cap it there? Or would the inspectors want to see the sani-T, cleanout, and AAV I have planned as well? Thanks for your time and comments!
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Thats going to depend on your local jurisdiction, you also need to know if an AAV is allowed, if not you will have to run your vent.
If allowed I would just stub it up thru the floor and cap it,
If this is being inspected, you better tell your inspector ahead of time that you plan on using a mechanical vent. Those codes which do allow for the use of a mechanical vent only usually make provisions for them to be used in exceptional instances such as an island sink. You can usually divert your stack or vent piping around a window fairly easily, so you better make sure you run your plan by your inspector first.
Broken promises don't upset me. I just think, why did they believe me? -Jack Handy
www.blackbirdkitchenandbath.com
Let me get this straight, you have a problem with your drain being inside an exterior wall but you plan on running your pex supplies in the wall judging by the finish boxes you've shown... That's a little backwards in my world.
Use a proper vent instead of that AAV, those are meant for worst case scenarios, not lazy renovations. Just use a longer trap arm and offset around the window if you must.
Yes. AAVs ara allowed here. I've had that discussion with the inspector. They'll let me put this one in and 2 others. Thanks for your comment. Stubbing it up thru the floor and capping it really seems reasonable. Thanks for the comments!
Yep. Even sent the inspector detaled drawing of the whole thing - which they don't require but agreed to take a look at before I started this project. No problem with the inspectors or AAVs here ( Washington County, Oregon )
This is an old house that already went through many re-pluming jobs. When I got to it, that wall - about 20 feet long with a sliding patio door an 6' window above the sink, had just 1 stud intact supporting the roof load. All of the other had been cut, bored, notched to Smitherines. I had to rebuild the wall. After that, I really don't want to cut big notches/holes, particulary under the window and through the studs supporting the header. I don't mind the PEX because the holes are much smaller, only in the bottom plate, and can route easily into the crawl space. Thanks for the reply.
thats right they come with a provision ....ontario plumbing codes say these AAV'S air admittance valves can only be used to vent-a) fixtures in buildings undergoing renovation and b) installation where connection to vent may not be practical....and a few other conditions...
quote; b) installation where connection to vent may not be practical....and a few other conditions
In other words, anywhere, the installer is too "lazy" to install a proper vent. AAVs may solve some problems, but they also can creater others.
Licensed residential and commercial plumber
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