Dishwasher not totally draining.....

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Chestnuts

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New Year's day I had to replace the last half of my plumbing nightmare. I had to remove the last of the 2" cast iron pipe due to a joint leaking and another joint breaking. I replaced the main line with 2" PVC. I bought a three way connector and put the washing machine as the middle connection so that it has a straight shot into the main sewer line. On one of the other connectors, I put the kitchen sink(garbage disposal also) using 1 1/2" PVC. On the last connection I connected the dishwasher. We ended up taking out about 5' foot of the 1" PVC. Originally the drain pipe was about 10' long that then dropped into a 90 degree, then into a 45 degree elbow that went into the bottom of the cast iron pipe. We cut off 5' and made a trap out of (4) 90 degree elbows. Now the dishwasher does not drain totally. It will slowly drain given time. Neither one of us had ever done anything like this before. We went off some suggestions from the person at the hardware store.


So, my question is: Did we put too much restriction on the line by shortening it and making the trap bigger???

Thanks for any help you can give me.
 

Cass

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It's hard to follow you but I think you made an inline trap which you can't do. It sounds like you have no vent. Can you make drawing and post it?
 

Chestnuts

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I was told to put an in line trap on the dishwasher to trap the sewer smell. All I did was shorten the overall length of the drain pipe and installed a bigger trap. I will try to post a photo of the new plumbing and the old plumbing soon.

Thanks,
 

Chestnuts

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The old drain pipe, the new drain trap and the how the drain hose connects. I could not get my scanner to work to give you the dimensions of the drain system, but here they are: The total length from the dishwasher hose connection to the top elbow is 73.5" with a 1 1/8" drop from the hose connection to the elbow. From the top elbow to the lower elbow is a total of 15.5". From elbow to elbow across the bottom of the trap is 8". Then from bottom elbow up to next elbow is 6.5". There is then 3.5" from the last elbow into the 2" sewer drain pipe.

I disconnected the drain hose and hooked it up to a garden hose and ran the dishwasher through a complete rinse cycle. The water drained totally. I also remember that when I first disconnected the drain hose connection, I heard water gurgling.

I was thinking that maybe I need to take out the trap and have two elbows into the 2" sewer.

Thank You for your help.
 

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hj

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drain

1. Using those fittings does not make it a "drain" line. They are "water pipe" fittings.
2. You cannot drain the dishwasher directly into the drain line.
3. We cannot tell anything about the rest of the DW drain line, but my impression that it might also be incorrect.
 

Chestnuts

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I would post the other photos I have of the old drain line, but they are .2 Kb too big for this server and I cannot reduce their sizes. To me, this is about the same as it was before, only with a bigger trap and it does not come into the sewer line from the bottom.
 

Chestnuts

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It is!!!!! It was used by the original installer. I am only still using it, but have shortened it up by 4'.

Let me clear up something. I have been asked why the dishwasher was not going thru the sink. That is because the dishwasher was installed (years ago) across the kitchen from the sink.

Here is the dishwasher.
 

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Toolaholic

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chestnuts

i'm guessing there is no 1 1/4" verticle vent line in the wall behind the d.w.
i believe that's a BIG part of your problem. why not get some help?

good luck
 

Chestnuts

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Venting or the lack there of is sounding like the problem. Is there a way to make the current system work by adding a vent? Or can I tie the drain back into the sink drain?? Did cutting 4'-5' off the original line cause the problem??

Here is the solution I have been given: "Run a drain line from the dish washer to the sink. Come up through the floor loop to the bottom of the counter and then into a disposal or tail piece. Support the line so it is level. This will solve all your problems unless the dishwasher has a problem. You can cap the line you are using."

I am not too fond of it because having to cut a hole through the bottom of the cabinet and the floor.
 
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Chestnuts

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Drain Fixed!!!!! :)

I appreciate the help I have been given on this subject. Unfortunately, I did not follow any of the advice I was given. I guess that's what happens with us do-it-yourself people.

Actually what happened was that I went to Lowe's to find the all the necessary items needed to complete the suggested fix. When I could not find what I was looking for, I asked an associate for some help. While describing the problem to the associate, he made a "easier" suggestion to fix my problem.

It only involved cutting the drain pipe and installing a vent into the line. I was able to accomplish this by installing a tee connector and gluing the vent to the top of the connector. They said it only needed to be higher then the drain line. I have included photos to the fix.

I have ran the dishwasher on a complete washing cycle and there is no water left in the bottom of the tub and there was no water under the line where I installed the vent.


Thanks to all of you that gave input.

Doug Pate
Kansas
 

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Chestnuts

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here is another photo:
 

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Cass

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You are directly connected to the sewer line. You could get very sick should it back up. The vent you used is not and approved AAV and even if it were it would not be hooked up right. Just FYI.
 

SteveW

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Cass said:
You are directly connected to the sewer line. You could get very sick should it back up. The vent you used is not and approved AAV and even if it were it would not be hooked up right. Just FYI.


That would really worry me. Also, if you leave this like this and sell your house, I would think you could be liable for a future owner's illness...
 

Chestnuts

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Cass said:
You are directly connected to the sewer line. You could get very sick should it back up. The vent you used is not and approved AAV and even if it were it would not be hooked up right. Just FYI.

Here is how I see it:
#1)Yes, it is directly connected to the sewer line.
In order for the sewer line to back up:
A) the 3" main sewer line would have to back up some 30' to get into my house;
B) then 15' of 2" drain line would have to back up to reach the connection, including traveling up 6" from where the sewer line lies to where the connection is supported from the rafters. And before all that happens, my bathroom should have flooded first since it sits directly above the main sewer line.

And #2) this would result in a Temporary fix. Does it meet code?? Who knows??

SteveW said:
Also, if you leave this like this and sell your house, I would think you could be liable for a future owner's illness....

Not hardly...that is what home inspections are for. Once you agree everything is fine and sign the paperwork, it's yours for better or worse. Believe me, I have been there. If it is not in writing, verbal agreement does not hold up in court, at least around here.
 

Cass

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Answer to #2: no it does not meet code.

When selling a house you have to sign a paper disclosing any problems with the house. This is one you will have to disclose.

Any home inspector will call out the vent and the hookup.

Do what you like, it your home, your familys health, and you have all the answers.
 

Dubldare

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If I ever eat at your house, I'll make sure to use paper plates, er...

Nah, not gonna eat there.
 

Master Plumber Mark

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thats some beeeaaaauuutifulllll plumbing

LOL

no matter what you say and try to explain

they are not with you.....it just does not matter..


they will find a way..........



Sometimes, when I try to explain something to one of my customers,

I get the feeling that I might as well be talking to a cow...


whats the use......???
 

Toolaholic

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my 2 cents

it's posts like this that makes me wonder, should we be aiding and abetting
some of these diy. are we encouraging them to get in trouble?

enjoy this site, but sometimes when i read a post like this or the arcts. two post , i wonder :confused:
 
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