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Thread: Dead Culligan Estate 2 - How to remove & what's next?

  1. #1
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Default Dead Culligan Estate 2 - How to remove & what's next?

    A few months ago my Culligan Estate 2 failed catastrophically with water spraying out from the control valve. I used the peripheral plumbing already in place to bypass it. Today I noticed its still leaking (slowly), which means my bypass valve(s) probably need repair. In the mean time, I pushed the softener bypass to "bypass" as well.

    Questions:

    1) Can I reuse the existing bypass with a new softener?

    2) If so, how does the control valve disconnect from the bypass valve? I'm guessing they are connected by fittings with o-rings, and all I need to do is remove the screws and u-clip holding them together, then simply pull apart? I assume I can do this without turning off the water (assuming the softener bypass isn't failed in some way)?

    3) What softener should I buy to replace it?



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  2. #2
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    The bypass, the culligan one might need some new o rings if it is leaking out one of the ends after you push the piston left or right.
    There are 2 screws that hold the metal plate to the brass bypass, there are 2 screws that then hold the metal plate to the valve body along with the metal u clip that goes down through the metal plate into the valve body.

    Where was the water leaking from that made you put it into the bypass mode?

  3. #3
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    We have city water with a lot of chlorine, which I would be happy to eliminate as much as possible. Any opinions on:

    1) Waterboss 950?

    2) Kenmore Elite Hybrid?

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    Buy a unit with a Fleck control head. There are online suppliers that sell complete units at excellent prices.

    I don't recommend either of the units you mention.

  5. #5
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I agree, the Fleck head unit will serve you for many years, will have parts available, ans is easily maintained. Do not get a unit with the medias mixed inside the same tank. A stacked tank design is fine, or 2 seperate tanks.

  6. #6
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Are there any units with Fleck heads that remove chlorine? Thanks!

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    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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  8. #8
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    As near as I can tell that thread is talking about adding chlorine, not removing it?

  9. #9
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    Here is one source of supply--there are other online sellers:

    http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/cu...me.php?cat=213

  10. #10
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiperco View Post
    As near as I can tell that thread is talking about adding chlorine, not removing it?
    Sorry, I'd forgotten how that thread developed. Carbon is commonly used to remove chlorine by an adsorption process, usually following a chlorinator, but also as a stand-alone solution to chlorine in municipal water. You can google "activated carbon chlorine removal" to read lots of impartial information on the subject, and most on-line sellers of the systems will be happy to recommend their products. I've heard that these are illegal in some municipalities, but can't confirm that. I've used several on-line vendors that I would recommend, including http://cleanwaterstore.com/carbon-backwash-filters.html, http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/cu...me.php?cat=339.
    Last edited by Mikey; 02-17-2013 at 09:21 AM.

  11. #11
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    I take it from the flow of the thread that the Culligan unit is in the trash and that there are other units being looked at for removal of Chlorine and then the hardness in the water?

    Also if one is thinking of the use of another valve on the culligan media tank? It will never work as the culligan threads are different and will not take any thing other than a culligan valve.
    Last edited by Akpsdvan; 12-24-2012 at 10:40 AM.

  12. #12
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    I take it from the flow of the thread that the Culligan unit is in the trash and that there are other units being looked at for removal of Chlorine and then the hardness in the water?
    The Culligan isn't in the trash yet, although I want to beat it with a baseball bat after the way that it failed (Spraying water everywhere, if someone hadn't been home and heard the water it would have been very bad ).

    Is there a practical option to rebuild the Culligan using aftermarket parts? The brine tank is fine, the media tank seems ok, its just the valve section that appears to be bad...(EDIT - I see your edit explaining that it can't be done...rats!)
    Last edited by hiperco; 12-24-2012 at 10:59 AM.

  13. #13
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    What part of the valve is in need of help?
    There are not after market parts, but there are often new and used culligan parts showing up from time to time that could be used, but again what part of the valve was the leak at or on?

  14. #14
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    The valve was leaking out of one of the front shafts. Due to the age of the Culligan I want to trash everything and get a new system. Any other comments (pro or con) with Ohio Pure Water? Anyone else have a favorite online store for water softeners?

    EDIT: Would it make any sense (or even be possible) to use the Culligan brine tank with a new softener?

  15. #15
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    As a DIYer who took a long time to find out where the rocks were in the water treatment swamp, I'd recommend trashing everything and starting fresh with a complete new system from a single vendor. Everything will be sized correctly, all the parts & pieces will work together, you'll get instruction manuals that match the equipment, and usually pretty good telephone support. The brine tank and tower at retail is under $100, and, as part of a complete carbon filter and softener system, won't add much to the total tab. The only thing requiring any skill is matching up your controller adapters to your existing plumbing. That's all nicely exposed, so it's basically an easy job for someone who knows how to work with copper pipe and solder. I wouldn't hire whoever did the original plumbing, though -- it's pretty ugly, even by my standards.

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