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Thread: Dead Culligan Estate 2 - How to remove & what's next?

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  1. #1
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Default Dead Culligan Estate 2 - How to remove & what's next?

    A few months ago my Culligan Estate 2 failed catastrophically with water spraying out from the control valve. I used the peripheral plumbing already in place to bypass it. Today I noticed its still leaking (slowly), which means my bypass valve(s) probably need repair. In the mean time, I pushed the softener bypass to "bypass" as well.

    Questions:

    1) Can I reuse the existing bypass with a new softener?

    2) If so, how does the control valve disconnect from the bypass valve? I'm guessing they are connected by fittings with o-rings, and all I need to do is remove the screws and u-clip holding them together, then simply pull apart? I assume I can do this without turning off the water (assuming the softener bypass isn't failed in some way)?

    3) What softener should I buy to replace it?



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  2. #2
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
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    The bypass, the culligan one might need some new o rings if it is leaking out one of the ends after you push the piston left or right.
    There are 2 screws that hold the metal plate to the brass bypass, there are 2 screws that then hold the metal plate to the valve body along with the metal u clip that goes down through the metal plate into the valve body.

    Where was the water leaking from that made you put it into the bypass mode?

  3. #3
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    We have city water with a lot of chlorine, which I would be happy to eliminate as much as possible. Any opinions on:

    1) Waterboss 950?

    2) Kenmore Elite Hybrid?

  4. #4
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    Buy a unit with a Fleck control head. There are online suppliers that sell complete units at excellent prices.

    I don't recommend either of the units you mention.

  5. #5
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I agree, the Fleck head unit will serve you for many years, will have parts available, ans is easily maintained. Do not get a unit with the medias mixed inside the same tank. A stacked tank design is fine, or 2 seperate tanks.

  6. #6
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Are there any units with Fleck heads that remove chlorine? Thanks!

  7. #7
    DIY Senior Member Bob999's Avatar
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    Here is one source of supply--there are other online sellers:

    http://www.ohiopurewater.com/shop/cu...me.php?cat=213

  8. #8
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    I think the brine fill rate is just that. Its how much water goes into the brine tank. Then the brine is drawn out during the brine draw cycle. But hopefully someone that knows for sure will chime in

  9. #9
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Glad you like it. Yes I did the pex myself (why, does it look like it, lol)

  10. #10
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiperco View Post
    Glad you like it. Yes I did the pex myself (why, does it look like it, lol)
    No, I was planning on doing a major reconfiguration of my system in PEX, but don't have tools, etc., and wondered how dificult & expensive it was. Mine is all 1" though.

  11. #11
    DIY Member hiperco's Avatar
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    Pex is great and easy (assuming you can get your crimp tool into every spot you need to) but you do need to invest in the tools. My crimp tool does half and three quarter which covers everything in my house.

  12. #12
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    When I do PEX, I use Apollo. The tool is reasonably priced and works great. I think it is available at many Home Depots or Lowes. I use the S.S. fasteners, not the plastic for longevity and peace of mind. Their plastic barbed fittings are very high quality too.

    http://apollopex.com/products/3
    http://apollopex.com/products/1
    http://apollopex.com/_products/docs/I-69PTKG1096.pdf
    http://apollopex.com/products/5

  13. #13
    Aspiring Old Fart, EE, computer & networking geek Mikey's Avatar
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    Thanks; any reason(s) to prefer pinch-clamp vs crimp fittings?

  14. #14
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The SS are much more expensive, but both work very well. I am simply more comfortable with the SS type.

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