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Thread: Curbless Shower

  1. #31
    DIY Member Freddie's Avatar
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    Will work on floor joist drawing. Do you want to whole bathroom or would just the area around the shower work for you? Been through the whole design with a number of people; not much other locations for the shower anyways.

    No TTMAC tile specs. Will get if I decide that I'm gonna do the tiling.

    Was doing a heated floor but was not planning on doing it below the shower.

  2. #32
    DIY Member Freddie's Avatar
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    Also, can't seem to find much information on the linear grate linear drain from ACO except for the following:

    http://www.quartzbyaco.com/grate-styles

    It states that the Intake sq. in. = 55.38 which is 60% more than the next nearest grate style "Flag". Cannot find any spec on "Linear" grate flow rate and I would assume that it would get more than the Flag based on a higher intake. Looking at a chart they have in their technical manual for flow rates at 0" head:


    No grate = 6.65 usgpm
    Tile = 6.49 usgpm (makes sense that it would be less given that it has blocked off some of the intake area with tile)
    Flag = 6.34 usgpm

    Now this is where I get confused. Flag has intake sq. in. = 31.36 while Tile has intake sq. in. = 18.10. Wouldn't you think the one with the larger intake area would be able to process more flow?

    Now trying to estimate flow for the linear grate which is not shown and it has intake sq. in. = 55.38.

    So either this is not the intake opening of the grate or something is not correct.

    All these numbers come from page 16 of the technical manual:

    http://www.quartzbyaco.com/sites/def...l_handbook.pdf

    Can anyone clarfiy? Thanks,

  3. #33
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-17-2014 at 05:25 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  4. #34
    DIY Member Freddie's Avatar
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    Here's my joist layout dwg after a bit of cutting out of the floor. Hopefully it shows up ok.Name:  Ensuite Joists_0001.jpg
Views: 262
Size:  85.0 KB

    Now let me explain:

    1. The top horizontal line is the inside of the wall framing on the external wall.
    2. The far right vertical line is the inside of the wall framing on the external wall.
    3. The dashed line indicates a wall I will be adding to run the plumbing so that it is inside the insulation.
    4. All the joist are 2" x 10".
    5. Horizontal dimensions are (from right to left): 0,10,26,42 inches
    6. Vertical dimension are (from top to bottom): 0, 26, 36.25,42,48.5 inches

    Also, here is a snapshot of how it currently looks:

    Name:  Ensuite Bathroom Reno 034 resized.jpg
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  5. #35
    DIY Member Freddie's Avatar
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    The linear grate from ACO will be I'm sure the highest flow rate of their grate options - the tile top the lowest.

    That's what I would have thought as well. Just saying their data sheets seem a bit wonky on that. If you see a spec sheet on the linear grate with respect to flowrates I'd appreciate it if you could forward a copy or a link to it.

    thx,

  6. #36
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-17-2014 at 05:25 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  7. #37
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    FWIW, most of the strength in a solid joist is established by an intact top and bottom section - one in tension, the other in compression. The rules for drilling holes restrict cutting holes near the ends since that's where walls and things may be located and pose a crush risk. Other than that, the holes need leave the top and bottom of the joist intact. Think I-beam or truss...the top and bottom are important, while on some designs, the middle is mostly open. Basically, the middle holds the top and bottom in the right place in a beam, but may not contribute a lot to the overall strength. That's why there are restrictions on where you can drill holes. The further apart the top and bottom are, the stronger it gets (if you can keep the top and bottom aligned).
    Jim DeBruycker
    Important note - I'm not a pro
    Retired Defense Industry Engineer; Schluter 2.5-day Workshop Completed 2013, 2014

  8. #38
    DIY Member Freddie's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=johnfrwhipple;364870]Hi Freddie.

    I personally hate working over OSB sheathing like you have there. Any chance you plan on switching it out for regular sheathing?

    I have to take up at least 1/2 of the floor for mods to plumbing drains and water supply to freestanding tub so I was planning on changing it. What do you mean by regular sheathing? Plywood? Our whole house is OSB. What is your concern here?

    Where the floor joists meet each other (IE North South meets West East) are those joist tied in to each other with a Simpson Strong Tie joist hanger? I can not see the nailing pattern on how these where ganged together. Are they nailed together from the other side. Stacks of 4 nails (3") on about 8-10" centres????

    Looks like 3" nails in stacks of 2 every 16", no joist hangers.


    Any idea why the sub floor is going black in the bottom right corner? I would open up the drywall and inspect that wall a little near that area.

    Black is small surface mold from front corner of old shower base. I will be taking that up and replacing once I prepare for plumbing changes. Want to do all the flooring at the same time. Also there are some parts around the toilet that need replacing as well. So basically I'll but removing all of the floor by the end of it.

    Is the linear drain going at the entry at roughly 42" off that back wall? If so then it's not so hard to recess that space as long as there is no HVAC, wiring, and plumbing in that bay.

    Yes. Space has no HVAC, wiring, some water supply to toilet but that is a 1/2" line that runs below the joists; between the bottom of joist and ceiling drywall of 1st floor. The drain plumbing is a bit in the way and most likely will have to be moved. I have to up to 2" anyways so... It comes through the space currently parallel at 37" from the right wall.

    Tha black ABS pipe appears to be rubbing the floor joists. How large of holes are drilled here? Make sure no holes are drilled within 2" of the joist top or bottom. That means the edge of the hole not it's center so a 2 3/8" hole drilled in a floor joist needs to be started no closer than 3 3/16" from the top or bottom...

    Holes are just a bit bigger than the current 1.5" drain and are 3 1/4" from the top fo the 2 x 10. No rubbing.

    Did talk to the city inspector by phone and as you said, no code with respect to curb or no curb, they don't even turn on the water. All they do is make sure plumbing changes were done to code and are inspected before flooring and walls put back on. No flood test but I be doing it anyways. Mostly concerned that proper waterproofing is done. 6' up in shower, 16" above tub with no hand spray, 3' - 11" with hand spray in tub. Water resistant floor outside of tub. Basically Ceramic tile is considered waterproof even with the grout. He said that most backing used is waterproof anyways. I guess he assumes no one will tile on drywall or greenboard in the shower without Kerdi or roll on waterproofing but that's a big assumption for those not doing the research.

  9. #39
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-17-2014 at 05:25 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  10. #40
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
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    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  11. #41
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-17-2014 at 05:26 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  12. #42
    DIY Member Freddie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnfrwhipple View Post

    You can see that the trim is set to line up with the hardwood after it is glued down. From finished floor to drain grill height I have 5/8" or the thickness of my "Chubby".



    JW
    John,

    Pretty busy right now but trying to move forward a bit before we leave for NYC in a few days. Just looking at this picture and I assume that the trim was placed on the side as well at the same height above the drain to match up with the floor. Assuming that is true and that the floor drains from the laundry machines down to the linear drain then there should be 5/8" of drain from the right end of the drain to the trim. As you move farther back along the right side the mud will be rising but the trim will be remaining level so some funky tiling will be needed. Just trying to make sure I understand this to see if I can somehow use something like this in my application.

    Also, are you aware of which linear drains are CSA approved for use in Canada? That's one thing the inspector mentioned; all things must be csa approved.

    Have a good holiday season and probably won't hear from me until after the new year.

  13. #43
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
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    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  14. #44
    ACO Shower Drain Sales johnfrwhipple's Avatar
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    Default CSA Approved curbless shower drains

    post(s) deleted by John Whipple
    Last edited by johnfrwhipple; 03-17-2014 at 05:26 AM.


    jfrwhipple@gmail.com - www-no-curb.com - 604 506 6792

    Always get construction advice double checked by your local city hall. Flood Test Every Shower - Every Time.

  15. #45
    DIY Member Freddie's Avatar
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    Looks like LED lighting where the edge of the glass is going to go. Nice touch.

    You mention ABS clamping drain. Did that comes with the linear drain? Looks familiar to what I've seen that is part of the Quartz linear drain install.

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