What happens if I bridge L1 and L2 on a 120 genset

**chefwong** · 12-01-2012, 11:36 AM

Dual EU2000i.
To power a 220 on the transfer switch.
Power is enough on the genset.

Will a cheater cord of L5-30P coming off the genset to a L14-30 with L1 and L2 Bridge going back to the transfer switch be OKAY - as long as I'm withing the power capabiities ?

So the Genset cable from Genset to Transfer Inlet - 5-30P to L14-30 would be
1 Hot to L1/L2 on the Inlet side.

**DonL** · 12-01-2012, 11:50 AM

Originally Posted by chefwong

Dual EU2000i.
To power a 220 on the transfer switch.
Power is enough on the genset.

Will a cheater cord of L5-20P coming off the genset to a L15-20 with L1 and L2 Bridge going back to the transfer switch be OKAY - as long as I'm withing the power capabiities ?

The Breaker will Pop ?

Try it and give us a report.

I would like to know.

**Speedy Petey** · 12-01-2012, 12:06 PM

You can do it, just make sure you disable any 240V loads powered by the transfer switch.

Also, it is an L14-20 female cap you need, not L15-20.

**jadnashua** · 12-01-2012, 12:16 PM

We may be misunderstanding the terms, but if you have any common neutral circuits, you could easily overload the neutral and potentially burn something up. This could happen if you used x-3 to power two circuits where the neutral is common via a dual-gang breaker. ANd, obviously, it wouldn't work if there were any 240vac circuits.

**DonL** · 12-01-2012, 12:44 PM

Doing something like this could produce Smoke.

Please post your Video.

Why not get the proper equipment and do it safe and correct ?

**chefwong** · 12-01-2012, 12:58 PM

I bought 2 eu2000 Gas Sipping Gensets.
I don't expect to use them except maybe every 2-3 years....
I do plan to excercise them though.

I don't need a genset that uses 3-6 gallons a day .
The defeated the whole purpose for ~my needs~.

Hence the 2 gas sipping inverters.

I'm not opposed to a 220 genset IF I need it for the 220 application.

But for all intents and purposes, I was just checking in to see if bridging the L1/L2 on the plugs so the transfer switch sees the 220 load....would it Work or what issues are there from a safety standpoint if I do it this way.

**LLigetfa** · 12-01-2012, 01:26 PM

The issue that Jim mentioned is that a "split" could be wired with the neutral sized to only half the max load and with both legs going to the same source, the neutral could carry twice as much as it was rated for.

Some people setup a separate sub-panel for critical circuits with a manual X-fer switch to power it from a 110/120V genset.

**jwelectric** · 12-01-2012, 04:15 PM

Originally Posted by chefwong

But for all intents and purposes, I was just checking in to see if bridging the L1/L2 on the plugs so the transfer switch sees the 220 load....would it Work or what issues are there from a safety standpoint if I do it this way.

Doing this will not give you a 220 volt anything nor will anything see 220

**chefwong** · 12-01-2012, 05:09 PM

Got it.
So for now, I'll use put 110 items on the transfer.

The transfer switch has 2 legs.
It's at least OKAY to still make the cord with L1/L2 bridged so that the transfer switch is seeing power right ?
I plan to put a linesman *decal tag* on the cord to identify that L1/L2 has been bridged

**big2bird** · 12-01-2012, 06:27 PM

Originally Posted by chefwong

Got it.
So for now, I'll use put 110 items on the transfer.

The transfer switch has 2 legs.
It's at least OKAY to still make the cord with L1/L2 bridged so that the transfer switch is seeing power right ?
I plan to put a linesman *decal tag* on the cord to identify that L1/L2 has been bridged

I would not, and frankly, I am deeply concerned that you even asked.

**chefwong** · 12-01-2012, 07:00 PM

Why not.

I plan to install the outside inlet once, so future-proofing with the 120/220 on the box + the switch is fine.
As long as I'm not tying any 220 to the switch, and to get 120 to both legs of the switch, L1 and L2 needs to be bridged.
The breaker on the genset will pop ......

So where is the issue here ?

It doesn't make sense to just buy 120 switch only to reinvent the wheel and buy a new switch, inlet, etc IF there is a possibility of me feeding it 220 down the road.

For now, I am sticking with the EU2K for it's FUEL Sipping capacity. I probably will end up using only 1, but I have the 2nd as a backup as well as a parallel unit.

**big2bird** · 12-01-2012, 08:41 PM

Originally Posted by chefwong

.................... I probably will end up using only 1, but I have the 2nd as a backup as well as a parallel unit.

Parallel unit? As in at the same time?

**jadnashua** · 12-01-2012, 09:24 PM

Many gensets cannot be run in parallel - they must remain in sync - exactly, or things go wonky. Only if they are designed for it, and are setup properly, can this be done.

**jwelectric** · 12-02-2012, 02:44 AM

Originally Posted by chefwong

Why not.
The breaker on the genset will pop ......

So where is the issue here ?

It doesn't make sense to just buy 120 switch only to reinvent the wheel and buy a new switch, inlet, etc IF there is a possibility of me feeding it 220 down the road.

For now, I am sticking with the EU2K for it's FUEL Sipping capacity. I probably will end up using only 1, but I have the 2nd as a backup as well as a parallel unit.

No transfer switch for this generator just use cords from the receptacle on the generator to the load.

No ---the breaker will not pop-----the damn generator will pop.

STOP!!!!!!!!!!! What you are planning is dangerous and deadly.

**Speedy Petey** · 12-02-2012, 04:37 AM

GUYS! I know everyone is justifiably up in arms about this, but the Honda EU2000 is specifically designed to run in parallel with two units and a wiring kit from Honda.

All he wants to do for now is jump out L1 & L2 to feed the GEN side of the transfer switch. NOTHING will produce smoke as long as the 240V loads are turned off, and it is NOT dangerous. It is ill advised as 2000 watts is a tiny amount and the gen breaker will definitely trip from time to time, but it is not unsafe.