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The threaded portion of the pipe is the thinnest spot, so this is where is always rusts through first.
@LL I'm trying to figure out what is so difficult about splicing wire with shrink kits or cutting the tape that holds the wire to the drop pipe.
@Frank, while I appreciate your wanting to get as much use as possible out of your old pump, Murphy's Law states that it will quit at the most inopportune time, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Years Eve, New Years Day.....
When you run a faucet does it ever spit air at you?
There won't be any air in the system if the hole is in the nipple between the pump and the check valve.
I'm a homebuilder with electrical design background and happen to have a deep well system.Originally Posted by frankc103
Elect: Somebody above talked about starting amps, a motor at start is "lock rotor" until they start spinning and according to the motor / load have about 6X amps for that fraction of a second droping to running amps. The motor spec will advise what size breaker to install but now let's talk about wire size. A 20A breaker is too much for a #14 wire. I'd install a 15A breaker and if it held ( it would pop at start ) that is what I'd use. If it pops then limp through till spring and when you replace the pump ( if you replace it ) you really need to up-size to #12 wire for a 20A breaker. Size breaker to load, size wire to breaker.
Also somebody above talked about "heatshrink", I agree that is the only way to go. They make a special water seal heatshrink that has a interior core of sealant as you heat and shrink the core mealts and gets squeezed to a water tight seal. You got to ask yourself if that is what they used top side what did they use at the pump motor? That pump comes with about 3' leads so you also have a connection at the motor.
Check valve: My pump and I'll assume yours, has a built in check valve at the top of the impeller stages and I also installed another CV at the tank, the one at the pump would keep your keep the system from cycling from pressure to vaccum in the vertical drop. If you only have the one CV and it is holding pressure then your vertical pipe is OK but it sounds like inpeller wear / damage or a leak.
Pressure: A sudden change in both electrical and mech gets me to thinking you could have taken a lightning strike, fried the wires and ran down to blow a "small" whole in one of the impeller stages ( if CV is holding pressure ) because the impellers are below the CV or in the pipe if the pressuer is not holding but you have a top side CV like me. The pumps are two seperate items ( motor and pump ) and I've had both my system and my parents hit. On my system I was able to replace just the motor, my parent's pump and motor were blown to hell.
Good luck till spring.
"my parent's pump and motor were blown to hell."
I'd like to see pics of that! I've seen motors with holes blown in them and with the seams split, but never a wet end.
With a 135ft set. He could have multiple check valves. Some installers will use a check valve every 100 ft.
Those are nice! I'm going to look for those here.The 5 amp draw is running amps. The locked rotor amps will be much higher, hence the need for 15 amp breaker.
I don't know what you mean by "wire tie the two wires". I like to use Marr connectors without any tape.
You got that right, mine quit just before everyone showed up for my kids birthday party....
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