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Thread: Basement WC move and Ejector Discharge

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  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member rickseville's Avatar
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    Default Basement WC move and Ejector Discharge

    I'm in the process of finishing my basement and had 2 questions.

    First, I need to move the toilet drain over 3 to 7 inches. In the attached floor plan, the BLUE is where the builder had stubbed out the drain pipes. The RED is my best guess as to where the pipes are located under the concrete. And the GREEN is how I plan to move the toilet drain over (using a 22.5 degree elbow, then a closet bend). Does that meet code? Also, do you think I will have issues with the sink drain/vent fitting being in the way? Is there a better way? I appreciate any advice.

    Second, I need advice on how to tie my sewage ejector discharge line into the main waste line. Attached is a picture of how the builder stubbed it out. However, it needs to extend out to reach the ejector pit. Ideally, I would have liked to extend the pipe that's between the 1/8 Bend and the 1/4 Bend (RED circle), but there doesn't seem to be enough pipe to work with. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thank you.
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    DIY Senior Member kreemoweet's Avatar
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    1) I don't quite get what your question is. The little bend you want to put in the toilet drain is insignificant. Since you're
    moving it away from the lav drain/vent, how could that make it get in the way?

    2) The solution to not having enough pipe to work with, is to get some more pipe.

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    Your shower drain is not properly vented...

    Not sure exactly what's there with the second picture, but if it needs to move, you have lots of choices. You could swap the elbow for one with hubs on both ends, and since you're moving it over, use whatever sized pipe length you need to rejoin things.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    What you are looking to do to move the toilet is fine.

    For your discharge, they make a special drill bit for drilling PVC pipe out of the hub of a fitting so that the fitting can be re-used. One brand is RamBit. If you can't jog the vertical pipe over far enough with a couple of bends, it would be an alternative to cutting the wye out and redoing the entire section.

    If your shower is plumbed like that, the trap could siphon every time someone flushes the toilet. Hopefully the shower is vented and you just have not shown that.

    Edit to add- you would have to look at the space available up between the joists to see if you could get a drill with the rambit up in that space. Buying the bit will cost you and alternatively it wouldn't be too bad to cut out that entire section and redo it.
    Last edited by cacher_chick; 12-08-2012 at 07:26 PM.

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    DIY Junior Member rickseville's Avatar
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    Thanks kreemoweet. Sorry for the confusion. In my first question, I mainly wanted to know if moving the WC drain with the 22.5 degree elbow was acceptable, or if there was a better solution. When the builder stubbed the tub/shower drain, they didn't take into consideration the main waste line sticking out half way up the wall. So i have to move the tub/shower drain and the WC drain a few inches. As for the question of the lav drain getting in the way, i just wanted to make sure my guess of how it's tied into the 3" drain was correct.

    Thanks Jim for telling me to vent my shower. I thought it would wet vent, but I'll take your word since you're the engineer and add a vent between the trap and the 3" pipe.

    Again, I'm sorry about the confusion on my second question. In the red circle in the picture I posted earlier, there is a fitting attached to a 2" pipe attached to another fitting. If I cut that 2" pipe, it will give me less than half an inch of the 2" pipe. So my question is: is less than half an inch of pipe enough surface area for me to solvent glue a fitting onto? And if I can't, can I just add a 90 degree elbow below the current 90 degree elbow and extend the line to my ejector pit? I'm not sure how many bends code will allow me to have on a discharge line. Hope this makes sense. I probably just made it more confusing.

    Thanks.

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    DIY Junior Member rickseville's Avatar
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    Thanks cacher_chick. You're Rambit advice is a great solution. I'll do some research on it, but does anybody know if it works well, or do people sometimes mess up the hub? If the Rambit option doesn't work, I can add a 90 degree elbow below the current 90 degree elbow to reach the ejector pit. Does that meet code for a discharge line? I would have to lower a small section of the ceiling a bit, but I'd rather do that than replacing the entire wye section from the main waste line.

    Thanks

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Your shower is not vented, but moving the toilet does not create any problems. saying you will add a vent between the trap and 3" does NOT tell us whether you will be doing it correctly. Just offset the pump line beneath the joists rather than take a chance of damaging the "Y" fitting because you would have to "RamBit" the 45 out of the Y since you do not have enough room between the 45 and the joist to do it to that connection.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rickseville View Post
    Thanks cacher_chick. You're Rambit advice is a great solution. I'll do some research on it, but does anybody know if it works well, or do people sometimes mess up the hub? If the Rambit option doesn't work, I can add a 90 degree elbow below the current 90 degree elbow to reach the ejector pit. Does that meet code for a discharge line? I would have to lower a small section of the ceiling a bit, but I'd rather do that than replacing the entire wye section from the main waste line.Thanks
    What we cannot see from your pictures is how far you need to jog the vertical over to reach the pump.
    If it is only a few inches, I would just use a couple of 1/8 bends and a short lenth of pipe to make up a 45 degree offset. I prefer to keep the flow as linear as possible to reduce noise and chance of buildup. If you need 90's I would suggest nothing but long turn 90's on a discharge line such as that.

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    DIY Senior Member dlarrivee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kreemoweet View Post
    2) The solution to not having enough pipe to work with, is to get some more pipe.
    Are you sure you should be giving out advice here?

    There is obviously not enough pipe left to work with between those 2 fittings, buying more pipe doesn't solve this.

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