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Thread: Suggestions for connecting new sink to existing plumbing?

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member mrand's Avatar
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    Default Suggestions for connecting new sink to existing plumbing?

    Howdy all,

    Classic problem, I'm sure... but didn't see a solution immedatley in searching the existing posts.

    We're in the middle of replacing our sinks in our guest bath, and since the new sinks are a different style and size, the sink drain hole doesn't line up with the existing trap. The drain hole on the new sink sits about an inch further away from the wall than the old one.

    The obvious answer is to move the trap further away from the wall - except that, due to the joints and elbows that are in place right now, it would require cutting the pipe off flush with the wall - providing nothing to attach to.

    I've looked at the flexible "form-n-fit" type tailpipes, but they won't fit due to the new sink sitting deeper, not to mention they seem more of a kludge.

    How would you solve this problem if faced with it? Surely using some sort of rubber hose OR flexible PVC is frowned upon.

    Thank you,

    Marc

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    Whenever a new lav or sink is installed, the old p-trap it thrown out.

    There should be a glued "trap adapter" on the pipe coming from the wall.
    These can be glued onto the plastic pipe. The p-trap end should have a slip joint washer and nut for the new slip joint p-trap.

    Fittings that look like an accordion should be avoided.

  3. #3
    Plumber Cass's Avatar
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    Did you purchase a new trap. The old one may have been cut and the new one would be longer and might fit.

  4. #4
    DIY Junior Member mrand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry
    Whenever a new lav or sink is installed, the old p-trap it thrown out.

    There should be a glued "trap adapter" on the pipe coming from the wall.
    These can be glued onto the plastic pipe. The p-trap end should have a slip joint washer and nut for the new slip joint p-trap.
    I'm sorry - I didn't describe the connections very well. The existing setup has a 1.5" to 1.5" coupler glued to what little PVC is visable coming out of the wall. Glued to the other side of the 1.5" coupler is a 90 degree elbow that is threaded on the trap end. This picture is close to what I have, except that instead of pipe going towards the wall, all that is really visable is the glued in coupler. Maybe 1/4 inches of PVC is visable going into the wall.

    The only solution I've been able to think up is to cut the hole going into the wall bigger so that I can cut the old coupler off and put a new one on.
    Fittings that look like an accordion should be avoided.
    I assume the same goes for the smooth clamp on flexible traps like this one ? Lesser of two evils? :-)

  5. #5
    DIY Junior Member mrand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cass
    Did you purchase a new trap. The old one may have been cut and the new one would be longer and might fit.
    The existing trap is a simple U-shaped piece (see the picture I linked to above), so cutting it would only affect the vertical height. The main problem I have is that the trap needs to "reach" an inch further away from the wall than it does currently.

    Thanks for thinking about the problem!

    Marc

  6. #6
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Default trap

    We would find a way to make a proper connection, even if it required that we "drill" the existing pipe out of one of the fittings.

  7. #7
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    You're facing one of the problems of remodeling. The temptation is always to take an easy way out instead of biting the bullet and doing some additional tear out, work, and/or expense. Unfortunately, the right way should be the only way. HJ's point is about as close to both worlds as you're likely to get.

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    Plumber plumber1's Avatar
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    If I needed to get my drain back together quickly, I'd grab a 2" x 1 1/2" No Hub Band and slide the 2' side over the 1 1/2" bell of the elbow. I think that's an approved repair here where I live. There is no health issue or the drain won't clog any sooner and there is a lot of cast iron put together with no hub bands.

  9. #9
    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    Here it would only be an "approved" connection if the No-Hub coupling, or transition coupling which would be better, were "labeled" as being sized for a 1 1/2" bell, which none would be.

  10. #10
    DIY Junior Member mrand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Swart
    You're facing one of the problems of remodeling. The temptation is always to take an easy way out instead of biting the bullet and doing some additional tear out, work, and/or expense. Unfortunately, the right way should be the only way. HJ's point is about as close to both worlds as you're likely to get.
    Understood. I don't mind the extra effort if it is required - I was just wondering if I was overlooking something. Thank you all for your feedback. I'll do it the right way.

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