Newbie here with some questions about a 2 cubic foot Centaur carbon filter I am setting up. It will be used to capture the iron precipitated out of the well water by a hydrogen peroxide injection. It has a 12x48 tank and a Clack WS1 valve that was previously on a water softener. Is the 12x48 tank large enough to hold 2cf of carbon and backwash properly? Doing research, some sites say that the backwash rate of the carbon should be 8-10gpm per square foot of media. I am assuming that with the roughly 7.8sq ft of this tank that if using the higher backflow rate of 10gpm then the clack valve would need an 7.5 gpm dlfc button, is this correct? Another concern is the type of underbedding needed. I have a old 16lb bag of #8 garnet here, is this okay to use under the carbon?
The house that this filter is being used on has 3 bathrooms all with single head showers, no tubs, a washer, no dishwasher and there are two senior occupants. 99% of the time there are only two people living in the house, but up to 6 guests can use the house two or three times for up to a week at a time per year. I have only seen all three showers being run at once maybe a half a dozen times in the past 20 years. I figure a high water usage rate of around 9gpm with 3 showers going and can't really see all three showers and the washer running at the same time, but maybe the kitchen sink might get used for a glass of water or to wash dishes, but again it would be extremely rare to have all of these happening at the same time. Is 2 cu ft of Centaur carbon enough for 9gpm flow rate? Is one normal 14 minute backwash setting sufficient for this filter? How often should the backwash occur?
Just FYI: The water supply has tested for 4ppm of ferrous iron, a PH of 7.3, TDS of 300, 9 grains of hardness, Manganese-Copper-Nitrites-Sulfides-Tannins-Iron Bacteria, nor Coliform were detected.
I sure do appreciate any and all help you experts can offer. Most of the water treatment people where the house is located seem to be more interested in selling product that up to this date hasn't worked properly. I would much rather learn all I need to know from someone who knows what they are talking about and get the water iron free and then maintain the system then to rely on a few local water treatment shops.
Gary has been pushing the Clack valve for years as a DIY's dream and it was Dittohead's video on the rebuilding of the Clack valve that sold me on this valve. His video on the Fleck 7000 rebuilding was awesome too, but I really liked the idea of there being no screws on the WS1.
Thanks again for the help! John