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Thread: Bathtub Drain/Overflow Connection to Cast Iron Drain Pipe

  1. #1
    DIY Junior Member darylm's Avatar
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    Default Bathtub Drain/Overflow Connection to Cast Iron Drain Pipe

    I am remodeling the bathroom and kitchen in a house that my wife and I recently purchased and one of the things we wanted to do was to put in a tile floor and make it about the same level as the existing hardwood flooring.

    After removing the multiple layers of underlayment and getting to the subfloor we could see wood rot that needed to be dealt with first.

    I have now replaced the rotted joist and am ready to start rebuilding the subfloor but before I do that I want to do whatever is needed to the drain for the bathtub since I have full and easy access to it at this point.

    Here is a picture of the bathtub drain pipes (before I replaced the joist).

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    Since I have easy access to this plumbing now... I'd like to put in whatever should be installed and in the right way so that I end up with no leaks and no problems for a long time.

    Please advise...

  2. #2
    Plumber jimbo's Avatar
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    This is not an easy job since the original plumber was skilled in soldering that tube to get the offsets he needed. I suggest getting a plumber to look at it.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    That job is well beyond your level of incompetence, so you may need a plumber to relocate the trap and provide a connection for you NEW drain assembly.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    As tough as those two answers sound, I was thinking the same thing. It's even a bit hard explaining in laymen terms why that setup looks so difficult to work with to us.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; As tough as those two answers sound

    We are NOT here to make every job "easy". We try to give the best answer, and sometimes that answer is "DON'T try to DIY". We cannot make a plumber out of someone with a few sentences in an E-mail.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    Really???

    I would suggest cutting back the cast iron well to the left of the picture and replacing with PVC. I'd think that a banded flexible coupling (on the cast to PVC) would allow for a little play (if necessary) and along with a much longer length of pipe, he could put that drain right where he needs it. I'd replace the drain pipig and overflow with plastic.

    But...maybe I'm missing something...wouldn't be the first time.

  7. #7
    DIY Junior Member darylm's Avatar
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    Default Thanks...

    Quote Originally Posted by Lakee911 View Post
    Really???

    I would suggest cutting back the cast iron well to the left of the picture and replacing with PVC. I'd think that a banded flexible coupling (on the cast to PVC) would allow for a little play (if necessary) and along with a much longer length of pipe, he could put that drain right where he needs it. I'd replace the drain pipig and overflow with plastic.

    But...maybe I'm missing something...wouldn't be the first time.
    I've done a fair amount of construction work in my half of century of being here on this earth... but have not had to work with lead and oakum before...

    What I was considering is to remove the lead and oakum and use a convert from cast iron to PVC either using a Fernco or PVC compression donut and then just use PVC

  8. #8
    I&C Engineer (mostly WWTP) Lakee911's Avatar
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    That's a possibility, but I'm not sure you'll have enough room to make up those slight and funny angles. Worth a shot--might need to get it apart, clean it really good and measure for a donut before you get started. It that doesn't work, cut it back further and forget the belled end.

  9. #9
    DIY Junior Member darylm's Avatar
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    I believe that there is another cast iron hub before the cast iron pipe goes into the main stack... so if I needed to I could go back even further for the cast iron to PVC connection.

  10. #10
    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    What is the distance between the trap and it's vent?

  11. #11
    DIY Junior Member darylm's Avatar
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    Good question.

    I am not certain... but it is not too far... probably less than 2 feet... which probably means that the next hub is the hub on the main stack.

    I'll need to check that and take some pictures so that I have better pictures as a reference.

  12. #12
    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    I know this is a DIY help forum, but sometimes the best advice to a DIY is to get professional help. Several of the real pros have alluded to this, and it might be wise to consider their advice. It's often cheaper in the long run to get the professional sooner than later.

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