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Thread: How to Hang Black Pipe or Lay on Ceiling Joists

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    DIY Junior Member David Seebeck's Avatar
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    Default How to Hang Black Pipe or Lay on Ceiling Joists

    Its getting cold here in Texas. This past summer I had new furnace installed but decided to wait until the fall to have gas installed. Now its turning into winter and getting cold. I have a 2500 sq ft house with no heat and a wife that needs to be comfortable. Anyway I ramble. I just got my permit to run the gas pipe. I will be running this myself. I will be running approx 60 ft of 1 inch black pipe. My question is this. The pipe will be run in from the meter location inside an outside wall into the attic. Once in the attic it is not a straight shot 50 feet to the furnace. I have a vaulted family room in the middle. So I have two questions. 1. Should I hang the pipe from the roof joists have a straight run through the attic to the furnace? 2. Or should I begin on ceiling joists before the vaulted room then go up 4 feet and come across the vaulted ceiling joists and then back down 3 feet and across ceiling joists on the other side of the vaulted room to the furnace, always keeping the pipe laying on joists. If I should hang the pipe from the roof joists then how do I secure it. Metal strap? Or, is there something better?

    Also Should I wrap threads with teflon tape and then pipe dope em or just pipe dope em.

    Also, Any tips on using a Rigid pipe threader? Never used one of these before. I am renting the machine.

    Thankyou.

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    I prefer straight runs on gas. It's just less measuring and fittings. You can use plumbers strap to hang it with.
    Though really, it's not much difference either way. I don't think there's a wrong way here.

    Keep plenty of oil on the pipe while the cutters are doing their job. You should have a pan with screen, so the oil drips right down back to the pan. Not enough oil and you start ragging the threads.
    When the end of the thread cutter meets the end of the pipe, you can flip off the cutter tension and release it.

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    In the Trades Gary Swart's Avatar
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    You may get mixed responses regarding tape and/or dope. I prefer just pipe dope. It does tend to be messy, so you'll want to catch the drips just like the cutting oil. With careful planning of the route, you may be able to do all or at least most of the pipe cutting and threading in the shop or yard where the dripping oil won't matter so much. Just be darn sure you test the joints for leaks after installation.

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    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    This may sound anal, but I have had troubles with just tape, and sometimes trouble with dope getting them to seal 100%. A plumber at work told me to use both. So, when I just did my house remodel, I used tape, two wraps, then smeared on Oatey Teflon dope on top. 100% seal every time without re torquing. Takes a little more time, but it works for me.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote" So, when I just did my house remodel, I used tape, two wraps, then smeared on Oatey Teflon dope on top

    I recently received a book from one of the plastic manufacturers and it had two specific recommendations which corresponded to my procedures. One was to ALWAYS start the tape BEFORE the thread so it covered the end of the pipe to prevent galling, and second was to NEVER use both tape and dope on the same thread.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hj View Post
    quote" So, when I just did my house remodel, I used tape, two wraps, then smeared on Oatey Teflon dope on top

    I recently received a book from one of the plastic manufacturers and it had two specific recommendations which corresponded to my procedures. One was to ALWAYS start the tape BEFORE the thread so it covered the end of the pipe to prevent galling, and second was to NEVER use both tape and dope on the same thread.
    I believe that. Plastic I use tape, but I was assuming iron. My bad.

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    DIY Senior Member Hammerlane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Seebeck View Post
    Any tips on using a Rigid pipe threader? Never used one of these before. I am renting the machine.
    Pretty much what Terry mentioned. Don't forget to ream the black pipe. I used this when we added a gas line for the grill.
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    DIY Senior Member Hammerlane's Avatar
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    Oh yeah and a good pair of gloves cuz the pipe will be hot after threaded.

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    DIY Junior Member David Seebeck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammerlane View Post
    Pretty much what Terry mentioned. Don't forget to ream the black pipe. I used this when we added a gas line for the grill.
    How do you ream the pipe. Is this done before or after threading? Is this done manually or is it part of the threading machine?

    Also is it necessary to remove cutting oil from threads before dope and assemby. Compressed air? Thank you.
    Last edited by David Seebeck; 12-02-2012 at 08:05 AM.

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    DIY Senior Member Hammerlane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Seebeck View Post
    How do you ream the pipe. Is this done before or after threading?
    We reamed after cutting pipe to length(before threading)

    Quote Originally Posted by David Seebeck View Post
    How do you ream the pipe. Is this done manually or is it part of the threading machine?
    Depends if you are using a hand reamer or if the reamer is part of the carriage mount.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Seebeck View Post
    Also is it necessary to remove cutting oil from threads before dope and assemby
    After threading, dispense more oil on threads to wash off any burrs. The oil should then be wiped off...doesnt have to be completely free of oil but not dripping.

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    DIY Senior Member Hammerlane's Avatar
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    here is a decent youtube video from Rigid tools:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UO8IlpHnAXw

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