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Thread: 7000SXT water softner system not working

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    DIY Junior Member dc5itr329's Avatar
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    Default 7000SXT water softner system not working

    Hi all. I've installed a 7000SXT water softener system from isopurewater. It's a 2 cubic unit. At first the unit was working fine. Ever since I've installed this unit I noticed on the 15 day I don't' have soft water. Now the soft water is gone in a matter of days. I just installed this unit a few months ago so it's really new. The settings are all factory except the hardness level which is set at 15 and the grain level which is set at 64000 grain. Is there anything I need to look out for? Thanks in advance.

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    DIY Junior Member dc5itr329's Avatar
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    I also checked the brine tank and it's not using any salt. Is there anything I need to look at?

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    The settings are incorrect unless you are regenerating with massive amounts of salt. Do you know what the actual hardness is? Assuming the system is programmed for a standard salt setting of 8 pounds of salt per cu. ft., the system would be good for 48,000 grains of salt. It can be programmed for as little as 4 pounds of salt per cubic foot with fairly good results and higher efficiency.

    At your current settings, the system may only be regenerating every couple of months depending on how many people are in your house. I can post the programming sheet tomorrow. You should remove the grey clip that keeps the brine line in place, pull out the brine line and take a look at the button inside. It will have some numbers on it. It should be either 125 (it looks more like 123) or 250. This is the flow rate of the brine refill. It is also printed on the back of the valve, but regardless of what the valve says, it is always good practice to check to make sue the button matches what is printed.

    With this information, we can walk you through reprogramming your valve to the correct settings,


    Other imprtant information would be how many people in your house, actual hardness, iron level, manganese,

    Your system is probably just fine, it needs to be programmed correctly.

    If you do not know what your water hardness is, then a Hach 5B would be a good place to start.

    Just found this, I posted the programming recently, check this link. http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ht=programming
    Last edited by ditttohead; 11-27-2012 at 10:50 PM.

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    DIY Junior Member dc5itr329's Avatar
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    I pulled these levels from the city report.

    Alkalinity (mg/L) 120
    Calcium (mg/L) 35
    Hardness [as CaCO3] (mg/L) 130
    Hardness [as CaCO3] (grains/gal) 7.4
    Magnesium (mg/L) 11
    pH (pH units) 8.1
    Potassium (mg/L) 2.2
    Sodium (mg/L) n 44

    The brine button has 25, 434, and F marking on it. On the back of the unit it says it's a 250. We have 4 people using this system.

    Thank you for your help!

    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    The settings are incorrect unless you are regenerating with massive amounts of salt. Do you know what the actual hardness is? Assuming the system is programmed for a standard salt setting of 8 pounds of salt per cu. ft., the system would be good for 48,000 grains of salt. It can be programmed for as little as 4 pounds of salt per cubic foot with fairly good results and higher efficiency.

    At your current settings, the system may only be regenerating every couple of months depending on how many people are in your house. I can post the programming sheet tomorrow. You should remove the grey clip that keeps the brine line in place, pull out the brine line and take a look at the button inside. It will have some numbers on it. It should be either 125 (it looks more like 123) or 250. This is the flow rate of the brine refill. It is also printed on the back of the valve, but regardless of what the valve says, it is always good practice to check to make sue the button matches what is printed.

    With this information, we can walk you through reprogramming your valve to the correct settings,


    Other imprtant information would be how many people in your house, actual hardness, iron level, manganese,

    Your system is probably just fine, it needs to be programmed correctly.

    If you do not know what your water hardness is, then a Hach 5B would be a good place to start.

    Just found this, I posted the programming recently, check this link. http://www.terrylove.com/forums/show...ht=programming

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    Name:  7000 2 cu ft.jpg
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    Use this programming guide, the Master programming mode is needed to set your system properly, not the installer portion. Be sure to change the "H" setting to 8, not 20. It can be set more efficiently, but for time reasons (hockey game in 1 hour), this will get you programmed to where the system will work. The "BF" setting will be 22 since you have a .25 BLFC.

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    DIY Junior Member dc5itr329's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Name:  7000 2 cu ft.jpg
Views: 274
Size:  96.5 KB

    Use this programming guide, the Master programming mode is needed to set your system properly, not the installer portion. Be sure to change the "H" setting to 8, not 20. It can be set more efficiently, but for time reasons (hockey game in 1 hour), this will get you programmed to where the system will work. The "BF" setting will be 22 since you have a .25 BLFC.

    Thanks for this. I've been playing around with the system and realize that the main reason why it wasn't working correctly was there was missing items that weren't given from isopure. Now with everything installed and settings updated, hopefully I have a good running system. Thanks!

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    DIY Junior Member scarpwi's Avatar
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    I have a similar experience with my brand new Fleck 7000SXT softner. All installed by a professional and it all looks good quality mechanically speaking. He was a little bit confused by the programming. Not a lot, but a little unsure I think. Basically, the salt is not being consumed after a few months and the water still feels a bit too hard in my view. I have a 40,000 grain capacity unit. Display format is in GAL, Valve type is dF2b, control type is Fd, hardness of the water is 15 grains but I have the softner set to 20. Reserve selection is cr, Safety factor is 20, Fixed Reserve is 0 and variable reserve is 0. Day override is off (1), regen is at 2 am and cycle steps are backwash 10, brine draw 60, backwash 5, rapid rince 5 and brind fill 12. (all defaults). flow meter type is 11.2 which is the 7000 meter. All seems reasonable to me. Bypass valve is set to "service" adn they are 1 inch brass sweat connections (same size as my water service line). Any suggestions as to what I should pursue? Thanks!

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    If a new metered softener is not working after the installation, this is a very common problem. The meter turbine is a common problem regardless of manufacturer. A piece of teflon tape, a drip of solder, a packing peanut, etc can get into the flow meter. This is the easiest item to check. Especially on the 7000. Turn water on inside the house. You will see a water drip icon on the display that will start blinking if the meter is working correctly. If you do not see a blinking water drip (not the hose bib icon), than the meter is not working. You can remove the meter cable from the outlet of the valve and run a magnet across the sensor to see if the water drip starts to blink. If it does, then the cable and board are good, your meter turbine is not spinning. Watch the video link to see how to get to the meter and inspect it for debris. The meter inspection is near the end of the video. Keep us updated.

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    DIY Junior Member scarpwi's Avatar
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    Default Fleck 7000

    Thanks for the fast reply! The meter icon does in fact blink when water is running so it seems the turbine is working and not obstructed. All the bypass valves are in the correct position as well. Not sure what else I should be checking. I hate to call someone if I can sort it out on my own. Thanks in advance for the great ideas and advice!

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    I read through your post quickly and missed the programming errors, you have a few problems. The default programming will not work. Use my programming guide. The DLFC, injector and BLFC need to be correct as shown on the chart as well. it you remove the gray clips you can easily remove the BLFC and DLFC housings. Look inside to see what size they are. The programming shows you the correct setting based on the BLFC size. It is either a .125 or .25. If it is .50, then it need to be changed. The injector should be a #0 red. Watch my video to see how to remove the injector cap. You will see the injector color when you remove the cap. Be sure the system is depressurized prior to removing the red clip. Also, it helps to depressurise the system, and push the black injector cap in to release the red clip. The red clips are safety devices. they are designed to break in the case of someone trying to remove them while the system is under pressure.

    Your programming is way off, so do these first, then add 5 gallons of water to the brine tank and regenerate the system. you will be fine after that. Also, get a HACH 5B test kit.

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    DIY Junior Member scarpwi's Avatar
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    Thanks again. My softner was advertised/sold to me as being a 40,000 grain unit. I want to use your guide you posted for programming but your examples are all based on a 64,000 grain unit. (With comments that it is actually lower). So should I set "C" to 40 or something less? And my actual hardness of incoming community well water is 15. You recommend the other settings as in your guide then correct? I appreciate you helping this DYI-er.

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    scarpwi, what size tank do you have? I assume your system is a 1.25 Cu. Ft. system. That size system can come in a few different tank sizes.

    use this programming sheet.Name:  7000125.jpg
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    DIY Junior Member scarpwi's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=ditttohead;372079]scarpwi, what size tank do you have? I assume your system is a 1.25 Cu. Ft. system. That size system can come in a few different tank sizes.

    I believe the tank is about 12 gallons. I say about because I don't have any specs on that from the vendor so I roughly measured the radius of the tank and the height and using calculations for volume arrived at approximately 12 gallons tank. Is that what you needed? The tank is approximately 9 inches in diameter and 44 inches tall. Does the sheet you sent me still apply? Thanks so much for your persistence and patience with me. - Steve

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    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
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    a 9x44 tank is not one I am familiar with. 9x40, 9x42, 9x48 are all common. 10x40, 10x44, 10x47, and 10x52 are also common tanks. Be sure your diameter measurement is accurate and look on the tank for a sticker that indicates the tank size. I assume you have a 1.25 cu. ft. system since it is called a 40000 grain system. The settings in the programming will remain the same, just the check boxes may be slightly different depending on tank size. You may also have a turbulator inside the tank, these allow for a much lower free-board.

    We will get you figured out soon!

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    DIY Junior Member scarpwi's Avatar
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    I do NOT have a turbulator. I know that for sure. The 9 measurment is good. There is a plastic "sleeve" around the tank itself and a black plastic base the tank sits in so it is a little hard to get an exact measurement. I checked again and I believe it is 9X42. Does that change any of the programming you gave me most recently? Thanks again... I see the light approaching!! - Steve

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