Toto Drake Gmax Fill Valve Issues - stutters as toilet tank finishes filling

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Suceress

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Your question about the lever: there are lots of levers from many manufacturers available online and at your plumbing supply that will work with that Toto; you just need one that is appropriate for the location it is in the tank (i.e. side lever).

And remember that the toilet lever is one of the only reverse-threaded items that you'll find in the house. That is, instead of lefty-loosy, righty-tighty (i.e. clockwise to tighten), you will turn the nut clockwise to LOOSEN the nut holding the handle in place, and counterclockwise to tighten it.

Thanks! I remember that from reading the instructions on the lid, but its good to have a reminder. I'll have to look at side handles when we hit Lowes today. I think I watched a video on how to change out the parts. For some reason actually seeing things done helps me better than having it described.
 

Jadnashua

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It would be unusual to have excessive pressure in a home with a well although it is possible. If it was high, you could save a lot of wear and tear and money by lowering it.
 

Suceress

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It would be unusual to have excessive pressure in a home with a well although it is possible. If it was high, you could save a lot of wear and tear and money by lowering it.

Thanks. I really don't know what the pressure is or where I would put the gauge to check. I forgot to look for those when I was at Lowes today. They were out of the side handles with metal rods and I refuse to get those flimsy plastic ones. I wish there was a way to attach a different lever to the existing metal rod from the thing that broke. Lowes seemed to be out of a lot of stuff today. It seems they were going through some change in inventory and a lot of displays were not up. At least I did get the MaxPerformance valve though. I actually had to explain to the clerk that the one in the kit was not the same valve and showed him the difference. I hope it won't be difficult to remove the old one and put the new one in. Right now the bathroom is occupied so I will have to wait until it is vacated before I can work on it. I'll try to post pictures if I can remember.

Ok, I may sound dumb, but is there a video that shows how to change out the default flush valve and install the Korky MaxPerformance? I saw the little diagrams and read the instructions, but I always do better when I can actually watch something being done.
 
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Jadnashua

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I'm not sure I've seen a video, but it's really pretty simple. Often, you may not even need any tools - it depends on how strong your fingers are. The most time consuming thing is probably sponging out the water so it doesn't all drain out the hole when you take the old valve out. Make sure to have the valve rotated so that nothing rubs and the chain to the flapper valve doesn't get caught up on things. You don't even need to put the locking tab back in unless you want to. Make sure to use the clip for the hose.
 

Suceress

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I'm not sure I've seen a video, but it's really pretty simple. Often, you may not even need any tools - it depends on how strong your fingers are. The most time consuming thing is probably sponging out the water so it doesn't all drain out the hole when you take the old valve out. Make sure to have the valve rotated so that nothing rubs and the chain to the flapper valve doesn't get caught up on things. You don't even need to put the locking tab back in unless you want to. Make sure to use the clip for the hose.

Ok. Even dumber question here because my brain is just frazzled today: Will I need to remove the tank from the toilet to install the new valve? I watched the video on servicing the valve and it didn't show that being done, but I'm getting the idea from the diagrams that I may have to do that. (Maybe its wishful thinking on my part that it won't be necessary so I want to make sure).
 

Jadnashua

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Generally, no, you do not need to remove the tank. Look at where the water supply hose goes to the bottom of the tank. You unscrew that (after turning the water off!), then there's a nut that holds the valve in place - you remove that, and the whole thing lifts out from inside. Course, you want to have drained the tank first. Then, the new one goes through the hole, you tighten the nut up, reattach the supply hose (it's not a bad idea to change that unless it is nearly new), adjust the valve so the fill height is correct, and you're close to done, On the volume adjustable one, you need to balance the tank/bowl fill so when the tank is full, the bowl just became full. The instructions cover it pretty well.
 

WJcandee

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Here's the video on how to install the 528 MaxPerformance:



You won't need to remove the tank.

The problem with the Fluidmaster refill adjuster is that it's a slide thing on the hose. It doesn't stay in place firmly and it is, in my view, more challenging to adjust than the Korky refill valve, which you turn.

The Fluidmaster vs. Korky is an age-old debate. If you're a homeowner, I think the Korky is far easier to install yourself, is quieter, is easy to adjust, shuts off smoothly, and otherwise does a fine job. I now have them on 6 of my 7 toilets, and a Korky will go on the seventh one when the Voreto valve that came on the Toto Carlysle II finally starts acting up.

The official Toto Universal Replacement Fill Valve (TSU99A.X) is made for them by Korky, and is basically a 528MP with a few tools to adjust it to Toto factory specs.
 
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Suceress

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Thank you guys so much! I feel like an idiot because I didn't try to just take apart the old flush assembly first (I was afraid I would break something so I wanted a replacement before messing with it). While I was waiting for a reply to this thread I went and took it apart. I found that after removing the cover and the float part (or whatever it is that moves up when the water line hits it) the thing that only turns 1/8 or whatever turn in the first video needs to be turned more before it unlocks. I was stuck on that part until I just decided to try turning it more. I don't have strong fingers so I gently used a wrench. I had to use pliers to pull out the thing inside that was supposed to be white. Man, that thing was absolutely disgusting and full of some sort of debris. Metal buildup from the water or something. Not sure. But I took everything out and cleaned them as best as I could. The black marks wouldn't come off of the red washer inside (or whatever that thing is) but it still looked to be fine. I think the gunk on the white thing was the problem. I put everything back together and it worked just fine. I did have to replace the flapper. I examined the old one more closely and noticed it was starting to change shape just a tiny bit on the ends. I also took the lever off of an as yet uninstalled Toto (still need to finish some floor installation and other stuff in that bathroom before it is ready) and used it to replace the broken one. It is a shame that piece of plastic in the lever is so flimsy. I wish I had been able to find just that piece and I could have replaced it instead. Meanwhile, I have an adjustable toilet lever that I put on the other tank. It matches the porcelain and chrome theme for that bathroom.

I'm going to bookmark this and download the video for when I do need to change out the flush valve eventually.

I'm not a terribly coordinated person so I'm amazed I finished this with only a little blood (scraped my knuckles on the tank trying to pull some things apart). So I'm proud of myself. I think it is inspiring me to work on more projects.

Again, thank you for all of the replies!
 

Terry

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I'm glad you got this one knocked out. Jamie has walked women through the process of checking the assembly cap on the 528 over the phone, without tools. It should take less then a minute.
Of course, with Seattle water, things come apart easier then in other parts of the country. Most of our water is from snow melt.
 
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WJcandee

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I'm not a terribly coordinated person so I'm amazed I finished this with only a little blood (scraped my knuckles on the tank trying to pull some things apart). So I'm proud of myself. I think it is inspiring me to work on more projects.!

This is how you start to get the bug. Happened to me. Congratulations on this project and we look forward to doing more with you in the future!
 

Suceress

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I'm glad you got this one knocked out. Jamie has walked women through the process of checking the assembly cap on the 528 over the phone, without tools. It should take less then a minute.
Of course, with Seattle water, things come apart easier then in other parts of the country. Most of our water is from snow melt.
Thanks! The water from my well is very full of sediment. I wish I had taken advantage of the opportunity to clean the holding tank when it was empty but I couldn't get the lid off without disconnecting some electronic components and I did not want to mess with wiring (plus the original pump house collapsed and we built the new one around the well and there isn't much wiggle room). I wish I could find a lid that had a hinge to open up just part of the lid so I could look inside or get inside if need be. One thing I'm sure of is that my water is high in iron. We have several Brita filters to filter the drinking water and we fill some large bottles we got from the dollar store.

This is how you start to get the bug. Happened to me. Congratulations on this project and we look forward to doing more with you in the future!

Thanks! My next project will likely be replacing the cartridges in my Aquasource faucet. I got it 11 years ago but the sediment is rough on plumbing parts here and the cold water lever cartridge deteriorated (for the bathroom sink). I couldn't find a phone number or website so I went to Lowes and looked at the box of a newer faucet to find the contact info. The clerk at Lowes told me that it was a lifetime warranty so we should get the part for free. We called and they are sending two cartridges (just in case) out on Monday.

My mother (I'm sort of her caretaker) also picked up a new tub spout, handles, and shower head for her bathroom. The diverter in the current tub spout is absolutely shot and the handles don't work efficiently. The entire assembly inside the wall is not secured properly, when I was trying to make the water stop dripping by turning the knob the entire assembly pulled forward. She decided to go with a cheap AquaSource thing that was about $49 so I don't know how good it will be, but its her money and its what she wanted. I just do the gruntwork. LOL. I suppose I should head over to the tub and shower section and read some posts.

If all goes as planned, I will hopefully have things fixed by the time my sister comes out to visit.
 

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Toto Ultramax CST 854, slow filling with long "burping" sound at finish

Our unit was installed in 08, it has all original parts, and has worked fine. However, during the last few days we've noticed it is slow in filling and makes a longish "burping" sound, and then a kind of hiss just as it shuts off. Obviously, these are highly subjective terms, but it's the best I can do.

I've gone through most of the posts, and can't find anything that seems to fit. The tank fills to about an inch below the top of the flush valve. The valve itself feels properly seated, though I haven't checked for cracks. There is no sound of leaking water, however. I've pressed down on the flapper to try to make sure there's a good seal while the fill is going on. There's slack in the chain above the "float," but it is taut below.

As for the sound, I saw that you used the term "water hammer" to describe another member's problem. Regarding pressure on the water heater, etc., we did drain the water heater and shut off the water supply to the house for three months during the winter.. Activated everything six weeks ago.
 

WJcandee

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Our unit was installed in 08, it has all original parts, and has worked fine. However, during the last few days we've noticed it is slow in filling and makes a longish "burping" sound, and then a kind of hiss just as it shuts off. Obviously, these are highly subjective terms, but it's the best I can do.

I've gone through most of the posts, and can't find anything that seems to fit. The tank fills to about an inch below the top of the flush valve. The valve itself feels properly seated, though I haven't checked for cracks. There is no sound of leaking water, however. I've pressed down on the flapper to try to make sure there's a good seal while the fill is going on. There's slack in the chain above the "float," but it is taut below.

As for the sound, I saw that you used the term "water hammer" to describe another member's problem. Regarding pressure on the water heater, etc., we did drain the water heater and shut off the water supply to the house for three months during the winter.. Activated everything six weeks ago.

Most likely the problem is with the fill valve in the toilet. You might turn the water all the way off and all the way on there at the wall by the toilet just to make sure that there isn't anything sticking that is causing this (i.e. gunk). Then, it's most likely gunk in the fill valve that is causing your issue, based on the fact that you had drained and refilled your water system.

Easy to fix. Here are the service instructions for the fill valve. It's easier than it looks to service it. On the service instructions in the link below, there are pictures of the Type A and Type B valve, so you can figure out which one came in your toilet. The Type A valve is made by Voreto in China to a Toto design. The Type B valve is made by Korky in the US. They are used by Toto interchangeably. If you need a new fill valve, you can just pick up the Korky 528MP Maxperformance fill valve at any Lowe's and many local hardware stores. (HD doesn't carry it, which is odd, since it's the #1-selling Korky product at Lowe's.) It's the one with the silver cap. Don't get the white-cap one because your toilet requires more refill water than the white one will provide. You just run the 528MP with the little refill adjuster wide open in the old Ultramax and you're perfect. (You'll see what I mean if you get to that point.) Your toilet could also take the Korky 528T "Fits Toto" fill valve, which now seems mostly to be sold at local hardware stores.

Further, if you have a Type B valve, here is the video from Korky on how to service it. The Toto piece is a little more comprehensive, but the video is helpful in seeing how it's done:


If servicing the valve doesn't fix the problem, and you have the Korky Type B valve, you can just replace that little cap with a new one from Home Depot for like $4. It's Korky Part No. R528. If there are big indentations in the rubber when you take the cap off to rinse it and it's not smooth like in the video, it's probably time to replace it. NOTE: Amazingly, and reprehensibly, Lowe's seems to have stopped carrying the R528 Cap, but HD still has it, as do many local hardware stores and plumbing supply places, But really, now, Lowe's. That sucks.

This is a fun, easy project that you really can't do wrong.

If you do end up replacing the fill valve, here's a video by Korky on how to do it:


Come back with any questions, and let us know how this turns out for you!
 
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Jadnashua

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Any time you shut off the water, drain the lines and refill, the inrush of water can dislodge crud that accumulates on the inside of the piping...then, weird things can happen - strainers get clogged, shower heads get plugged, valve seals no longer work perfectly, check valves get stuck. You may just be able to remove, clean, and replace the cap on the fill valve and resolve the problem. But, it is nearly 5-years old and a new cap is less than $3 at Lowes (assuming you have the valve made for Toto by Korky).
 

Rogerb

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This thread has addressed several ways to "fix" the stuttering valve. Could someone please explain the mechanics of how the valve is closed, if it is a not mechanical impingement that closes the diaphragm , is it a hydraulic force? I have replaced everything and the stuttering continues. What HAS TO HAPPEN to insure the proper valve closure?
 
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