While I have the kitchen wall open.....

Good Evening,

I'm in the midst of a kitchen gut/reno, and am at the point where I can open up the walls if need be to address any plumbing issues. . Originally, there was a double-bowl sink with an ISE disposal on the right side, with a suspiciously installed Ptrap on the left.


Oh - about the DW supply line, the shutoff was uber-seized, so I just fed the line back onto the supply so the Minister of Household-Goings-On would still have water in the meantime
I'm at the point where the cabinets are gone, and I'm about to tear the subfloor right down to the joists. I can also open up the wall behind the cabinets-to-be and make any required changes as I go. The new cabinet going in will be a 33" sink base with a new 30x18x10 single bowl undermount in the same position centered under the window. I was reading through the forums and noted that the usual height for the lines are in or around 16" from the finished floor height because of the trend towards deeper sinks (I'm going to be ~36" high with countertop). I took a quick measurement and found my lines sitting around 17", so I was planning just to cut off the old valves and extend the 1/2in copper lines an extra 5" plus caps until the cabinets arrive.



Then I got to thinking about the drain - since I am going from double bowl to single, 10" deep undermount with the drain offset towards the rear. Would it be necessary for me to change the existing 1 1/2" drain location and install? We intend to either reinstall the old trusty ISE 77 or replace with an Insinkerator Evolution of some variety. I'm just concerned that the drain or lines might be in the wrong locations for me to hookup everything once the sink and cabs go in......I'll post some specs on the sink in a follow up post (due to picture limits)

Any suggestions or advice in this regard is greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

YW84U

The drain line should be okay, but you will probably have to cut it off closer to the wall.

A 2" drain on a kitchen sink is better than a 1.5" if it can be accessed during remodeling, but lots of them out there with 1.5".

Is the 17" distance for the water supply or the waste trap arm?
Water can go many places and still work. The drain with a 10" undermount will work with a 16" traparm measured from the floor that the cabinets set on.
17" may work, but I would want to check the measurements beforehand. I don't like standing water in a disposer.
By the way, most disposers are pretty much toast after eight years. Yes........the blades do start to get dull. And once that happens, it's no longer dicing things into bits and pieces.
The Evolution series is also much quieter.

Thank You everyone for the replies!

Today I opened up the walls, and relocated some wiring as well as dealing with the jungle of shutoffs the previous folks left me As HJ mentioned, I did cut the waste line back closer to the wall - Thank You for the suggestion! I soldered new copper for the supplies and set them at 10" off of floor height:



I put some blocking/support behind the lines and secured with copper straps and nails. I chose 10" height from the floor based on my cabs having a 4.5" toe kick plus 5/8 carcass on a 36" cabinet (minus 10" for sink and minus 12.5in for disposal) would put me about 1.5" below disposal height and about 5 inches above the cabinet floor.

Terry, I agree that its maybe time to retire the 'ol ISE! From the specs online, the 3/4hp Evolution's waste line sits 6 11/16" below the sink, which I believe should mean that my waste pipe needs to be lower than roughly 18 1/4" high. I took a measurement, and where I cut the pipe off, the center of it sits at 17" from finished floor height, drops to 16.6" where is crosses the first stud, and then drops to 16" as it enters the drain/vent:



The two water supplies are about three inches to the right of sink center, and it looks like the waste pipe will enter into the far right edge of the 33" wide cabinet that will be taking up residence there. I also took the time to relocate the disposal switch, since the last install had it in a double gang box shared with the sink lights - as expected, everyone would always turn on the GD accidentally....I figured it was time to make it far safer by relocating it by itself on the opposite side of lighting switches

From my math and the pics, does it appear that I've missed anything or messed up tragically? Tomorrow's job is to wire staple the last of the electricals, repair the vapour barrier, close up the drywall, and start tearing up the subfloor for new tile. Of course, after a couple of Tylenol and a few cups of coffee!

Cheers,

YW84U

I am an electrician, not a plumber, but if I had this situation, I would lower that whole dwv deal about 2". If you get it all done, and the disposal outlet is about the same heigth as the trap arm, your gonna cry. You could do it in about 2 hours, and play it safe.