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Thread: Relocating kitchen stub out

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  1. #1
    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    Default Relocating kitchen stub out

    Long story short, we re arranged kitchen cabs, and bought a deep undermount sink. My stub out ended up here:Name:  kitchen counter sink 008 (Medium).jpg
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    Name:  kitchen counter sink 007 (Medium).jpg
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    So I cut out the 2x1 1/2" SAN T , lowered another one 3", and ran it Horizontally 8" or so, and installed a 1 1/2" sweep to stub it out in a better place between the bowls.
    Name:  kitchen counter sink 012 (Medium).jpg
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    So my question is, is this really kosher? Or do I need to move the whole island set up over?

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    It is the way we do it at least 50% of the time.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    Thank you HJ. Now for my next question.
    Is there a way to legally install like a combi wye on the stub out to use a trap for each bowl? I don't think I care for the directional center t deal.

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    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    I think I figured it out. If I add a san t above this one, and stack another one on top to the other side, it's low enough to hit the basket. The disposal was the issue being lower. Thanks again. J

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    Retired Defense Industry Engineer jadnashua's Avatar
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    FWIW, that flexible rubber coupling is not allowed inside the house - it should be a reinforced no-hub fitting. Thinner rubber, full metal jacket to keep the pipes aligned.
    Jim DeBruycker
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    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jadnashua View Post
    FWIW, that flexible rubber coupling is not allowed inside the house - it should be a reinforced no-hub fitting. Thinner rubber, full metal jacket to keep the pipes aligned.
    If I had known that, I would have used the appropriate fitting.. Since I am done, and it's just an overkilled 2" island vent, that should never see a snake, I am going to let this one go. The pipes are only 1/8" apart, and I used it with dishwashing soap to make a slip coupling.

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    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    Finished product. I like the idea of seperate p-traps for the disposal and sink.Name:  kitchen counter sink 014 (Medium).jpg
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    Test, Don't Guess! cacher_chick's Avatar
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    That would fail inspection in some areas as you now have a wet vent on the lower trap.

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    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cacher_chick View Post
    That would fail inspection in some areas as you now have a wet vent on the lower trap.
    With what you see here, is there a way to re-arrange the fittings and vents in this space to comply with UPC code?

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    Forum Admin, Expert Plumber Terry's Avatar
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    UPC would be happy with a fixture cross, or to stub out once and use a disposer kit with one p-trap.

    A fixture cross puts the trap arms at the same level as the vent, which makes it correct.
    Or stub once, and connect under the sink.

    There are a lot of things that hj says he does in Arizona that I can't do with inspections.

    Last edited by Terry; 11-25-2012 at 04:43 PM.

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    IBEW Electrician big2bird's Avatar
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    Terry, could I replace the lower 90* sweep with an 1 1/2" wye, making both stub outs the same heigth, and abandon the top stub?

    I understand the wet vent thing, but the only danger would be draining both bowls at the same time.

    I could use the top as a C.O., and use the single stub. But I hate the idea of those divided t's.

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    Moderator & Master Plumber hj's Avatar
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    quote; you now have a wet vent on the lower trap.

    Isn't that the idea and purpose of a "wet vent". I would not have done THIS installation that way, but have "stacked" tees for multiple fixtures many, many times, (especially if they had different drain height requirements which a back to back fitting would not accomodate), and they were ALL "inspected" and approved.
    Licensed residential and commercial plumber

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