(206) 949-5683, Top Rated Plumber, Seattle
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: Ionics IQ-0820 Softener -- Replace Resin without Hygene?

Hybrid View

  1. #1

    Default Ionics IQ-0820 Softener -- Replace Resin without Hygene?

    I have a 5-year old Ionics IQ-0820B Water Softener -- and have some questions about the resin and this Hygene stuff that is in my tank. The maintenance on this thing is killing me. The last service call was over $300 -- and all (maybe "all" isn't a good word) they did was do some sort of back-flush and added 2 lbs of the Hygene stuff.

    So what is this Bacteriostatic Hygene stuff. Do I really need it. Other highly rated water sofeners don't have anything like it as far as I can tell. I am being cynical here, but as near as I can tell, it is just some sort of sales gimmic and I am feeling that I am paying for something that I don't really need.

    I understand that I can probably get the S-759 resin or equivalent on the internet, but cannot get the Hygene stuff (must be licensed or something to handle it). Anyway, my question is, can I just empty out the whole tank and replace it with resin. Is there any reason that I couldn't/shouldn't do that.

    I have few other questions in general about water softening/softeners (in particular how they interface with RO systems), but want to get the resin question out of the way first. Hope you can help me out.

    Ron in Round Rock

  2. #2
    In the Trades Akpsdvan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    Did you get a look at the bacteriostatic hygene stuff? did it look like brass shavings?

    Some systems will have what is called KDF 55 or 85 depending on chlorine or smell...

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Akpsdvan View Post
    Did you get a look at the bacteriostatic hygene stuff? did it look like brass shavings?

    Some systems will have what is called KDF 55 or 85 depending on chlorine or smell...
    No, I haven't looked at it (still trying to figure how to correctly remove the top -- i.e. bypass the tank, somehow disconnect the tank and then, I guess, just unscrew the control valve assembly). But I am sure it is the silver impregnated Hygene stuff because the last time the Ionics service guy came out, he added 2 lbs of the stuff (I think after 2 years of usage). And I wouldn't know what to do with the stuff even if I could identify it.

    Anyway, my real question is if I can just replace whatever is in the tank with some new resin.

  4. #4
    Water systems designer, R&D ditttohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    California
    Posts
    1,707
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quick comment about the RO system with a softener, a softener will greatly increase the filter life of the membranes. It is not necessary, but it is highly recommended to pre-treat an RO with a softener.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ditttohead View Post
    Quick comment about the RO system with a softener, a softener will greatly increase the filter life of the membranes. It is not necessary, but it is highly recommended to pre-treat an RO with a softener.
    Regarding the RO system, yes, the same guys that installed the Ionics IQ-0820B water softener also installed an Ionics Micromax RO System -- and I am getting tired of paying for filters and service on that guy also. I can get a new Watts RO System (with new membrane) at Costco for less than it costs me to have the other filters replaced.

    My question about the Softener and RO System combined was about the TDS readings. I just purchased a TDS meter (yes, getting ready to all of this myself) and I find that the TDS reading of the water coming from outside the house (hose bib) has the same readings as the water coming out of my kitchen sink faucet (around 290 ppm). My house had a bypass connection in our garage that makes it much easier to hook up a water softner and it was also supposed to bypass the water going to the outside hose bibs (so that I am not irrigating my lawn with salt water). Now, I thought, or would think, that the softener action of removing magnesium and calcium would affect the TDS readings (aren't magnesium and calcium solids -- or maybe they don't disolve and that is the catch).

    Anyway, I was trying to figure out if, or how well, the water softener was working. As I said, the TDS reading for the water outside and at the kitchen sink is about 290 ppm and the water coming out of the RO system is 20 ppm (about a 97% reduction of solids, I guess) -- so I guess that is working. My thinking is that when the TDS reduction reaches some magical figure (like 80%, 85%, 90%, ?), it will be time to replace the membrane (hate to think what my service people would charge me for that one). From research on the internet, I have deduced that the carbon and other pre-filters should just be changed on a regular basis (like once or twice a year) and the membrane replaced after several years (hopefully a TDS reading will tell me when).

    Anyway, I intend to do the next filter change myself. I think I can get those rascals over the internet. And, thanks to you-tube, I see what I need to do to sanitize/steralize/etc. my bladder. So I feel pretty confident I can do that myself.

    But I still have the question of knowing how well the water softner is working -- like the fact that the TDS reading between the softened and un-softened water are the same -- so is that not a valid test for determining whether the water softner is doing its job. I do know that you can get these kits and check the color of the water to determine its hardness (according to out water distribution people, the hardness of our water coming in is around 13 grains -- I think that is per gallon, maybe), so is that what I should be using.

    So my questions are how do I know how well the water softener is working and when should I be replacing my membrane in the RO system and of course, the confusion I have about the TDS readings. I have not been able to get answers to these question on the internet, so hoping someone here can help.

    Sorry about the long post.

  6. #6
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,685

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rnsmithtldiy View Post
    ...(so that I am not irrigating my lawn with salt water)..
    There should be no salt in the softened water but none the less, it is a waste to use soft water on the lawn.

    As for TDS, the softener uses something called ion exchange, exchanging one grain of hardness for two grains of sodium so the TDS readings will measure the sodium.

  7. #7
    That's all folks! Gary Slusser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Wherever I park the motorhome.
    Posts
    6,790

    Default

    It sounds to me that they are using silver impregnated carbon as the hygiene stuff, which it isn't. At best it is supposed to prevent bacteria growth in the carbon. And over time the carbon will be chewed/ground up and backwashed out of the tank during regenerations.
    Gary Slusser Retired (= out of business)
    Click Here to learn how to correctly size or program a water softener.
    CAUTION, as of Nov 12 2013 all YouTube videos showing how to rebuild a Clack valve have an error in them that can cause damage.

  8. #8
    DIY Member ByteMe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Midland Texas
    Posts
    61

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    There should be no salt in the softened water but none the less, it is a waste to use soft water on the lawn.

    As for TDS, the softener uses something called ion exchange, exchanging one grain of hardness for two grains of sodium so the TDS readings will measure the sodium.

    WTH? The process of softening the water replaces the calcium and magnesium WITH SALT. So how can you say that?

  9. #9
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,685

    Default

    Salt is sodium chloride. During the regen, the chloride goes down the drain, leaving only the sodium. Sodium without chloride is not salt.

  10. #10
    DIYer, not in the trades LLigetfa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    NW Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,685

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LLigetfa View Post
    As for TDS, the softener uses something called ion exchange, exchanging one grain of hardness for two grains of sodium so the TDS readings will measure the sodium.
    Do you need me to word this different or did you just overlook it?

  11. #11
    DIY Member ByteMe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Midland Texas
    Posts
    61

    Default

    In the words of the famous Homer Simpson, DOH!

Similar Threads

  1. What does softener resin look like?
    By SteveW in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-24-2011, 05:22 PM
  2. Softener resin
    By johnfin in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-12-2011, 04:05 PM
  3. Time to replace my Kenmore resin??
    By jbsloop in forum Water Softener Forum, problems, installation and reviews
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 07-16-2010, 09:45 AM
  4. General Ionics salt softener problem..
    By mengel in forum Pumps and Tanks Well Forum & Blog
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 12-19-2008, 12:04 PM
  5. Can I replace the control unit on this water softener resin tank?
    By nazrat in forum Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice, Tips & Tricks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-18-2008, 09:25 AM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •